I have a 2015 PRO-RMK 800. Who else got a letter saying take sled to dealer and have the lower sprocket bolt replaced. When I called the dealer they recommended not riding until this was done. I don't keep the sleds in town where I live so it is a pain to take to the dealer. Was planning on not doing the bolt replacement until end of the season, now I'm nervous to keep riding. What are others doing about this?
Bulletin 5-15-05 / A, replace lower sprocket bolt
- Thread starter kinghillrmk
- Start date
J
jerrydecoy
Well-known member
I'd Just order Some arp bolts and do it yourself!!!! Order a two sets and then you can have a spare with you in case you break a belt. These bolts should only be torqued one time
Last edited:
T
Tony skagen
Active member
just 15's ,are 14's involved too?
There should be no problem reusing an ARP or even the updated 12.9 bolt as many times as you want. They are not over-torqued like the POS original 8.8
J
jerrydecoy
Well-known member
You are correct. When I was typing the reply I was thinking arp but at the same time I was thinking he could get some bolts pretty quick from PESidaho.com since the op appears to be in southern idaho.They're a 10.9 bolt and should be replaced each time they are torqued.
Re:broken lower bolt
My sled is a 2015 with about 18 Hrs the lower bolt broke the week before the recall was issued,
while my buddy was trail riding with his wife.
The problem is created by excessive clearance between the sprocket & the drive shaft spline this thing fits like a saddle on a sow.
Without putting these parts up on my CMM to map out the exact clearances I would estimate there's about 0.01-0.015 of slop and it is not realistic to expect any 10 m.m.bolt to constrain the movement of the pulley under the load conditions it subjected to in this application.
The higher quality bolt will help but long term I have serious concerns that the problem will not repeat.
Polaris's solution of recessing the on the 16s is helpful as it transfers the movement away from the bolt head.
I made a drill guide for removing the broken bolt we have now used it twice it takes all the pain out of this process.
I am currently going to build a set of drill guides for the purpose of redrilling the drive shaft end out and re tap the threads to use the 45m.m.12.9 grade bolt.
Just a bit of background info I'm the owner of AS9100 -ISO certified machining facility with 45 years of experience.
My sled is a 2015 with about 18 Hrs the lower bolt broke the week before the recall was issued,
while my buddy was trail riding with his wife.
The problem is created by excessive clearance between the sprocket & the drive shaft spline this thing fits like a saddle on a sow.
Without putting these parts up on my CMM to map out the exact clearances I would estimate there's about 0.01-0.015 of slop and it is not realistic to expect any 10 m.m.bolt to constrain the movement of the pulley under the load conditions it subjected to in this application.
The higher quality bolt will help but long term I have serious concerns that the problem will not repeat.
Polaris's solution of recessing the on the 16s is helpful as it transfers the movement away from the bolt head.
I made a drill guide for removing the broken bolt we have now used it twice it takes all the pain out of this process.
I am currently going to build a set of drill guides for the purpose of redrilling the drive shaft end out and re tap the threads to use the 45m.m.12.9 grade bolt.
Just a bit of background info I'm the owner of AS9100 -ISO certified machining facility with 45 years of experience.
Last edited:
I have been saying this for a year now! Is nobody listening. Fix it or you might die!
Seriously, I broke a 8.8 bolt and then a 10.9 bolt and now I sell the 12.9 hard bolts but I don't know if that is enough.
On my 15 I drilled and tapped the axle for a 12mm bolt. I then took a 12.9 hard, socket head bolt and cut off the head to make a stud. This stud I tightened into the axle with red loctite. I use 2 nuts to lock the gear on with 660 Loctite on the splines. Re-drill the washer to the larger size too.
This is the true fix if you cannot change out the axle to one with tighter tolerances.
Seriously, I broke a 8.8 bolt and then a 10.9 bolt and now I sell the 12.9 hard bolts but I don't know if that is enough.
On my 15 I drilled and tapped the axle for a 12mm bolt. I then took a 12.9 hard, socket head bolt and cut off the head to make a stud. This stud I tightened into the axle with red loctite. I use 2 nuts to lock the gear on with 660 Loctite on the splines. Re-drill the washer to the larger size too.
This is the true fix if you cannot change out the axle to one with tighter tolerances.
Sam... good post.. mirrors what Tethair and LH have been saying for a while... I think TKI brought it up in some testing of fit of splines last year.
I'm curious to see the actual service bulletin... can anyone post it up here?
Wondering if there is anything in that service bulletin about the sloppy splines as it seems to be common enough for many people to notice.
I'm curious to see the actual service bulletin... can anyone post it up here?
Wondering if there is anything in that service bulletin about the sloppy splines as it seems to be common enough for many people to notice.
Drill guides and LockTite 660.
Let us know when the drill guide is available.
I also believe that having that longer bolt... with the clearance hole in the shaft are a MUCH better go than the current short bolt where the threads end at the shear plane of the washer/shaft.
Pre-load (engineered stretch) to the bolt is super important to bolt clamping.
The loctite 660 is a good solution to mitigate the slop... but makes quick removal in the field all but impossible.
Getting some solid reports of success or failure results with the TKI tensioner for the factory belt would be helpful here... if the results have been good with the Factory belt and TKI tensioner combo then...
Then using the 1-tooth longer AXYS belt in conjunction with the TKI tensioner in would allow a person to use the Loctite-660, the HFPP drill guide/tap setup and then use a longer 45mm bolt with longer unthreaded section for much improved results ... and super fast belt changes in the field without the need to remove the sprockets.
.
Let us know when the drill guide is available.
I also believe that having that longer bolt... with the clearance hole in the shaft are a MUCH better go than the current short bolt where the threads end at the shear plane of the washer/shaft.
Pre-load (engineered stretch) to the bolt is super important to bolt clamping.
The loctite 660 is a good solution to mitigate the slop... but makes quick removal in the field all but impossible.
Getting some solid reports of success or failure results with the TKI tensioner for the factory belt would be helpful here... if the results have been good with the Factory belt and TKI tensioner combo then...
Then using the 1-tooth longer AXYS belt in conjunction with the TKI tensioner in would allow a person to use the Loctite-660, the HFPP drill guide/tap setup and then use a longer 45mm bolt with longer unthreaded section for much improved results ... and super fast belt changes in the field without the need to remove the sprockets.
.
Last edited:
We guarantee all of our bolts and the 10.9 can be reused multiple times
The use of the 660 will eliminate the slop but it will be very difficult to get pulley to run concentric due to the slop causing the belt tension to vary as the pulley gallops around .
If it goes on crooked or out of center, this is true but I will say mine is quite sloppy but appears to run straight.
MH, do you really want to bend that factory belt backwards after reading the handling guide for those belts? The instructions make you think you should put on cashmere gloves before taking it out of the box.
C
Carls Cycle
Basic Member
Bulletin for QD Bolt
I have attached the file for the Bulletin for you as a PDF file. You should be able to access it. If you have any problems with it, let me know!
Daniel @ Carl's Cycle Sales
I have attached the file for the Bulletin for you as a PDF file. You should be able to access it. If you have any problems with it, let me know!
Daniel @ Carl's Cycle Sales
J
jerrydecoy
Well-known member
Not my instructions... You're thinking of the instructions from Polaris for the stock bolts
Note: Moved the belt drive discussion posts to their own thread to keep this on on track. My bad for taking it off track.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=405220
Not really, but with a sprocket semi-permanently 'glued' to the driveshaft with LT-660... this gives an attractive method to do this to mitigate the wobble/play... AND be able to change the belt in the field easily/quickly.
I've seen the TKI tensioner in person... it is a nice unit with a good sized O.D. to the idler... haven't heard of issues with it.
Just throwing ideas out there.
.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=405220
Not really, but with a sprocket semi-permanently 'glued' to the driveshaft with LT-660... this gives an attractive method to do this to mitigate the wobble/play... AND be able to change the belt in the field easily/quickly.
I've seen the TKI tensioner in person... it is a nice unit with a good sized O.D. to the idler... haven't heard of issues with it.
Just throwing ideas out there.
.
Last edited:
