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BRV Problem EVO

B

bigstick

Member
I installed it the other day and went for a ride and it worked good but today I went for a rip and u could hear it dumping air and the sled would only rev to 7400 rpm. But u could stop go again and I pulled 8050 rpm and everything was fine. Has anyone had this problem?
 
I installed it the other day and went for a ride and it worked good but today I went for a rip and u could hear it dumping air and the sled would only rev to 7400 rpm. But u could stop go again and I pulled 8050 rpm and everything was fine. Has anyone had this problem?[/QUOTE

Yep, same probem here; however, all I have to do is back out of the flipper real quick and then back into it and it's fine. Will do this on at least half of the climbs. Doesn't seem to do this down the trail though.

Been spending too much time with the damn clutch/belt problems, not to mention work, to worry about it. Maybe someone from EVO or ? can chime in with input.
 
Grease it

Mine did the same thing. Talked to Jim and he said to take the cap off and put some good quality low temp grease in there and make sure the cap is tight. Doing this made it better but still does it, not as bad though.
 
Frick me. I wish when u buy some thing it would work. I will try it tomorrow thanks for the input
 
Frick me. I wish when u buy some thing it would work. I will try it tomorrow thanks for the input

Hello,

The BRV's work great, however, there are a couple of issues that have arisen with some of the kits on the snow.

  • The vibration from the big twin does tend to loosen up the end cap which can cause them to leak
  • To fix this, take the cap off, remove the piston and spring, apply a good synthetic grease to the inside of the valve body, reassemble the valve and apply red locktight the cap on
 
Something for people to look at (to avoid problems in the future) is to make sure the BRV is not touching anything. I ended up shortening both hoses to get the BRV away from the frame bracing. We have had several in for service and noticed most are hitting the brace after the hood is installed. Maybe this would cause magnified vibration and loosening of the cap.

Here is a picture showing how I have mine. Even if it were to be pushed down by the hood it clears the frame brace.

IMAG0697_zps519a4769.jpg
 
Something for people to look at (to avoid problems in the future) is to make sure the BRV is not touching anything. I ended up shortening both hoses to get the BRV away from the frame bracing. We have had several in for service and noticed most are hitting the brace after the hood is installed. Maybe this would cause magnified vibration and loosening of the cap.

Here is a picture showing how I have mine. Even if it were to be pushed down by the hood it clears the frame brace.

IMAG0697_zps519a4769.jpg


Interesting blanket over the muffler. Can you enlighten me and tell me if this comes with a certain muffler or did you buy something to put on there or? Take afew pics?
 
Jeff
that the TI Blankets from Jim @ Evo... the run from the up pipe to the end of the can.. 3 piece system.

Shortinging the hoses like pics above allows the hood to push the BRV down.. better fit for sure.
I have had ZERO problems with the 6 we arfe runnig here but going to double check the cap now that it has some light on it..

Thanks Jim

S/C
 
Same problem, gotta get right off flipper and let it downshift a bunch before it will pull again. In my case, my brv was just fine. Its the cheap clutching especially the secondary thats sticking open and not backshifting, creating what feels like your boost is gone. When you look at the backside of an m 1000 or 800 type of secondary you will soon realize that the m1100 secondary bushing is much too small to support proper shifting. Its even causing helix bolts to snap as that is what takes the hit. Changing bushings is a temporary fix and should last a couple hundred miles.
 
If it was the secondary wouldnt you get to rpm in time mine would stall out at 7400 and never get any higher so I believe lack of power because of no boost or not the right rail pressure
 
My observations have been: hit the flipper hard outta hole, lose traction, secondary now opens like a bugger but when your traction comes back the secondary isnt closing up fast enough or at all and its pullin too hard on engine and ya it will feel like a dog until you back outta it an let secondary catch up. Much worse when clutches and belt are hot.
 
Spring bind, my secondary spring pockets are marked with paint from the spring. I'm having the pockets opened up some and if that don't work then its time to Team up!
 
Mine finally started doing this today while riding-
My sled ia fully vented with the cat panels.
7400 rpm down the trail and will only run 10 psi of boost. A/F gauge is running 13.7

Backed off the flipper and it worked for 4-5 times- but then got worse All of this while climbing large shutes ( scary )
Going to check EVO's valve- and lube it up as suggested.

If this doens't help= is it really worth spending the $$$ on the TEAM / is this the fix?

Not blowing belts 500+ miles but just not a constant boost pressure as it was originally (17- 20 psi)
Seems to be be getting worse with racking up the miles.

S/C
 
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mines also doing this. gets scary doing a big climb and have the boost gone when you need it most. someone please see if the lubing the valve does the trick. if not it will get fixed when i put evos 275 kit this summer
 
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