i recently had my motor out for a crank rebuild. new primary clutch. installed the belt that was on when the crank broke. rode a three hour ride the first time out with no belt issues. saturday i rode for about an hour and started to feel some slipping, looked at the belt and it had a flat spot in it where about three lugs were missing. i put on the spare (another used belt) and after about another hour and a half the same thing happened where there was a flat spot with some lugs missing on the belt. i bought a brand new belt and will ride with it this weekend, but just want to make sure that there isn't something wrong wrong, and ruin a brand new belt this weekend. what sorts of things can i check for?
breaking belt lugs
- Thread starter saint60
- Start date
Sheard cogs, belt to tight.Though it could be a combo of misalignment and a little of to tight belt deflection.
Think of it this way.... The cogs are hittting/rubbing on the interior shaft of the primary as or maybe before the sheaves close on the belt.
Check alignment and belt deflection before you start to use that new belt.
Think of it this way.... The cogs are hittting/rubbing on the interior shaft of the primary as or maybe before the sheaves close on the belt.
Check alignment and belt deflection before you start to use that new belt.
C
clutch man
Well-known member
belt cog lose
combination of allot of things
1. center to center not set right?
2. alignment not set up properly?
3. belt deflection not set up properly.
did you use any thing to set the center to center?
did you use any alignment tools?
all the is very critical and can NOT be set by just looking down the belt or putting the motor where in it was before and thinking it will work.
combination of allot of things
1. center to center not set right?
2. alignment not set up properly?
3. belt deflection not set up properly.
did you use any thing to set the center to center?
did you use any alignment tools?
all the is very critical and can NOT be set by just looking down the belt or putting the motor where in it was before and thinking it will work.
they were polaris belts. i did not measure the center to center on the clutches. i used the shim setup on the secondary that was already there and counted on the motor mounts lining up the primary and block where they already were. there is a good possibility that the stabilizer is overtightened. how do i loosen the belt at all?
Belt deflection is set with the secondary. If the center to center is off any substantial amount this needs to be corrected first, but I'm not sure why you'd have any issue with center to center. Either way, check this first. Center of primary to center of secondary should measure 11.5".
The deflection is changed by changing the seperation of the secondary sheaves at rest. With a Team roller (haven't worked on button styles), there is a stud on the outside of the clutch with an allen wrench fitting in it and a lock nut on the stud. To increase deflection, loosen the lock nut and thread the stud into the clutch. To decrease deflection, loosen the lock nut and thread the stud out of the clutch. I think you're looking for 1.25" deflection.
But, since you didn't check clutch alignment, I would start there. Its rather difficult without an alignment tool, but I managed to do it with just a good straight edge and a tape measure. I forget exactly what the spec is for offset, 5/8" (back edge of primary to back edge of secondary?)? The clutches need to be parallel (in-line) to one another, most importantly when the engine is under load. I set mine up so that at idle (no load) the motor is actually a little crooked relative to the secondary, so when it is under load and flexes backward it is in line with the secondary (using a torque arm helps cut down on this "flexing"). Straight edge flat against backside of fixed sheave on primary, protruding toward the secondary, looking for a small gap (really small gap!) on the front edge between straight edge and secondary moveable sheave.
I'm no expert, so anything I said could be incorrect. However, it has worked for me.
The deflection is changed by changing the seperation of the secondary sheaves at rest. With a Team roller (haven't worked on button styles), there is a stud on the outside of the clutch with an allen wrench fitting in it and a lock nut on the stud. To increase deflection, loosen the lock nut and thread the stud into the clutch. To decrease deflection, loosen the lock nut and thread the stud out of the clutch. I think you're looking for 1.25" deflection.
But, since you didn't check clutch alignment, I would start there. Its rather difficult without an alignment tool, but I managed to do it with just a good straight edge and a tape measure. I forget exactly what the spec is for offset, 5/8" (back edge of primary to back edge of secondary?)? The clutches need to be parallel (in-line) to one another, most importantly when the engine is under load. I set mine up so that at idle (no load) the motor is actually a little crooked relative to the secondary, so when it is under load and flexes backward it is in line with the secondary (using a torque arm helps cut down on this "flexing"). Straight edge flat against backside of fixed sheave on primary, protruding toward the secondary, looking for a small gap (really small gap!) on the front edge between straight edge and secondary moveable sheave.
I'm no expert, so anything I said could be incorrect. However, it has worked for me.
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