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Break in with synthetic oil

Hi, my dealer put polaris ves red racing oil in my tank and resevoir for break in on my 2014 assault. Im readi g now that blue oil should be used but the owners manuel says use plain ves. Just wondering if its a big deal or not?
Thanks
 
No just run the sled if it blows they put it in. Most vehicles from the factory come with synthetic oil. Does everyone worry that much about there new car??
 
No just run the sled if it blows they put it in. Most vehicles from the factory come with synthetic oil. Does everyone worry that much about there new car??

Nope.

I broke in my SLP 777 with Interceptor and the dealer filled my '14 Pro up with VES Gold.
 
Broken in a lot of engines with synthetic. Is it ideal, no... But youll be ok. Really the biggest thing is how you run it. Without some good load on the rings (how you run it), it wont matter what oil is being used.

Give 'r hell! :)
 
I also started it in the garage today, i couldnt resist, i know its bad but i just fires it up and shut it off within a minute, how bad is this for the motor?
 
No just run the sled if it blows they put it in. Most vehicles from the factory come with synthetic oil. Does everyone worry that much about there new car??

Not sure what you guys consider as "breaking in," but I know for a fact that it is indeed a bad idea to break in a brand new motor with synthetic oil. Your main concern with a fresh engine is getting the rings to seat. Synthetic oil can prevent a good ring seal. The motors I've built for my car are either broken in with cheap conventional oil, or if you want to spend the $$ - they make a specific break in oil that you can use.

I know new car's obviously come with engines that have been ran for quality control, but I don't know if snowmobile motors are done in the same fashion. If it were me, with a brand new sled, I would suck the synthetic oil out and put non synthetic in. Ride for a few hours(or whatever break in is considered), then drain and replace with syn.

Just my .02
 
My dealer ran my sled before I got it they had filled it with Polaris race oil and the tank had 3 gallons gas with the same oil. So how is sucking it all out and replacing it going to turn back the run time. Also I drove mine on to the trailer about 50 ft. What is done is done.

I agree with you on if you rebuild motor you should run Dino oil for 500 miles or less.
If the dealer does it hey that is why I bought the warranty and they "should" know what they are doing.
 
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Just run it with what's in it, not going to hurt a thing. Broke in new sleds with dino oil and ves oil. Still need top end around 2000 miles. Our group has done this to 11 new pro. 4 on dino , 7 synthetic. Our dealer fills oil res. And one litter in tank with ves synthetic, and gives you a big jug of it 3 gal. Think it is. After that's gone we just use what ever oil we like.
 
I dumped the VES and put in mineral oil in both the oil reservoir and the fuel tank. I'm following http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Everyone who gets a new sled will start it in their garage several times before the ride it but I'd avoid doing that. Seating those rings right with a good load on the ring is a one time deal. Running the engine at idle will take away that opportunity.
 
Even if your dealer filled it up I would tell them to take out synthetic, put in dino, or you will.
 
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I dumped the VES and put in mineral oil in both the oil reservoir and the fuel tank. I'm following http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Everyone who gets a new sled will start it in their garage several times before the ride it but I'd avoid doing that. Seating those rings right with a good load on the ring is a one time deal. Running the engine at idle will take away that opportunity.

I agree 100%....I have also followed this procedure on last 2 pros I've had, I have had "0" engine issues that others talk about. My sleds have seemed to build more power than some others I've rode with. It's not an issue of synthetic, Polaris red, gold, or whatever hurting your engine, but you will not seat the rings properly with a "super slick" oil, therefore losing compression and performance. You have a very short time to get it right the first time. I don't know if I've been lucky, or the mototune method really works. But I will be following this method on all my break-ins.


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I dumped the VES and put in mineral oil in both the oil reservoir and the fuel tank. I'm following http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Everyone who gets a new sled will start it in their garage several times before the ride it but I'd avoid doing that. Seating those rings right with a good load on the ring is a one time deal. Running the engine at idle will take away that opportunity.

So what this is saying is let it warm up to temp and ride it like you stole it or am I missing something?
 
If i dump whats in the resevoir do i just pump it out close to empty then mix the blue with the tiny bit of red thats left? And is the dino oil that everyone uses the blue polaris oil because its a synthetic blend?
 
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Break-in period

2014 Polaris owners manual page 65 recommends POLARIS VES 2-CYLCE OIL for the first tank of fuel. I am not saying you should go with Polaris oil but they do recommend synthetic oil. They are not stupid. :light:
 
So what this is saying is let it warm up to temp and ride it like you stole it or am I missing something?

Not quite. The secret is to vary the engine load and engine rpm. Do not run engine at same load or same rpm continuously. Exercise the engine's full rpm range but doesn't mean you'll be pulling hard continuously. Variability is key with pronounced heavy loads or high rpms to get thse rings seated.

The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration.

Just follow mototune's process and you'll be happy.
 
2014 Polaris owners manual page 65 recommends POLARIS VES 2-CYLCE OIL for the first tank of fuel. I am not saying you should go with Polaris oil but they do recommend synthetic oil. They are not stupid. :light:

"They are not stupid right?" Let's see.... 20% less horsepower than competition, Bad quick drive pulleys/belts, bad a-arms, bad driveshaft, bad pistons, bad cylinder skirts, bad rear bumpers, bad tunnel supports, bad engine cooling, and list goes on...don't get me wrong, I own a couple pro's. The design is amazing, the product they gave us needs work. I've spent a lot of time and money making it into what Polaris should've made to start. Not bashing you, but just cause Polaris says it in the manual doesn't mean they're correct. If you don't use their oil and need warranty work, they won't cover it, but I've heard of little they cover anyway, unless you can prove it broke in the front yard, while your grandma was riding it on Sunday.


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