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Brain Workout!!! Cat can't get the R's up...

HardKor

Member
Lifetime Membership
Here is one that is wearing out what's left of my brain...
I have what started out as a D&D 1010 on an 03 900 Mountain Cat. The motor is hogged out, runs on last years weedwhacker gas, never detonates, has seen a ton of N2O go through... This sled has been bullet proof for 4 years. I decided to try for more this summer... I dropped and rolled the case, cryo'ed everything, put on 48mm Lectrons, I went with a Cutler TPS block and new TPS, had Jaws weld on slip fits to keep things cleaner, raised exhaust ports about .0080", etc (nothing else I could think of to call a variable).

Here's the problem:
She runs like a raped ape! But the motor won't spin past 7600rpm. And I know those pipes like 8000 to 8100. In the trailer with no belt...it won't hold past 7600, which is exactly where it is on a long hill or on a lake. I have adjusted the TPS a couple of different ways, but no better. The carbs are, I think, dialed in right where I need them. EGT's are close to 1200 when it's really climbing. I have thrown lighter weights at it - from 72.5g to 64g. It likes the 70g weights. Any variance from the 70's will cause it to drop R's. I put 72.5's in and it dropped to 7300. I put 67's in and it dropped to 7300. I have done the basics - changed springs, belts, plugs...I even changed out the stator and pick-up thinking the cryo process may have messed things up. The exhaust valves are leaking a little exhaust through the cables, but are travelling through the full range consistently. They are in correctly... (I have been idiot before!)

Here's what I'm thinking:
Could the bigger carbs be causing that much more air to go through the motor that the exhaust is creating a bottleneck? I am running Jaws D pipes with 39mm U-tubes going into my can. I talked to Greg and he thought the exhaust port change may be causing more heat in the pipes and suggested upsizing the U-tubes to 42mm. Before i cut my coated and polished can up to weld in new tubes, I wanted to ask for suggestions...
I am going to check the timing, but I can't think of how that could be messed up. I run a stock key and didn't touch the computer.
I sure would appreciate some input!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks,
Kor
 
this is interesting, i dont have an answer, but my buddy has had a similar problem on his 05' KK900 with an SLP pipe and MBRP can, the thing will not pull the 7900 his pipe wants, he has tried messing with the weights, springs, everything, he got it from 7300 to 7600 with weight changes, but he cant get the last 300 RPM.
 
Check your timing. I have the same problem and found my timing was way off. Talked to someone alot smarter than me and he guessed my symptoms right off. My timing was way off and I had similar symptoms except I had alot more heat in the pipe. I am testing sunday so I will know if I fixed it or not
 
I went with a Cutler TPS block and new TPS

Was the tps calibrated? I had a cpc 1000 on a kk and put on a set of 48's.. it would not run worth a ****e until I took the tps and block into the cat dealer and we calibrated it. I don't remember the procedure/specs as it was a few years ago but your dealer should have a plug to go on the tps and you rotate it on the block to get certain amount of resistance.
 
Thanks for the feedback.
I plan on checking the timing today.
Let me know if the testing proves any positive results.
And as far as the tps, the cat tool puts 5v through the system and measures the voltage as it travels through the potentiometer to set idle and WOT. The problem with big carbs is the throttle pull is so much more than stock, that the range is too great to set both idle and wot. The Cutler block does a million times better than the pos that PSI sells. (Whoever designed that one couldn't pass 7th grade geometry!) So, yes it has been set, and I've tried different settings to advance/retard the timing, but with not much difference.
Please keep it coming!
Thanks,
Kor
 
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Why did you raise the ports? have you actually checked the port timing on the motor with it assembeld, that would be a good time to make sure your crank isn't knocked out. I put some 52 crankshop carbs on a 900 then 1150, even with the cutler block I had to modify the arm, i think I had to cut it and shorten it to get the full travel and have the correct voltages.


may have to start back tracking and put the old parts back on til it runs again.....
 
Is it exhaust valves, cables stretch and and throw a curve ball into anything that should make sense. Check with the dealer for cable adjustment specs.
 
She pulls a lot harded out the back now... That's what we hoped for with the exhaust porting. As far as the Cutler arm... I can get it close at idle to .56v and the top I've set at 4.0v. My next step is to put the stock carbs on and see if she spins (after I check the timing, of course). I have re-checked the TPS and found that it did change... probably need to check it again.
Thanks!
 
Can a person try it with the exhaust valves held wide open just to see if you get any more rpm ?
 
I'm having the opposite problem with my 990. VF reeds, 4deg key, stock 40mm carbs, jaws 900 pipes, custom airbox with cold intake and Tim Trimper porting, top Hp is at 7600rpm on Lindermans Dyno, Running 80g's, 9 tooth extro's w/21:40 and a 151 2". EPI green w/51 helix. I am having a hell of a time keeping the r's down where it counts. I'm in 5000- 8000ft elevation. I'll play with the secondary more this weekend in Tumbler. Don't know what Timmy did here but this Biotch pulls hard. All I can help with is call Tim at Ralphs in Calgary or Brent Linderman in Hillcrest AB, they may have some good advice.

Adios Amigo
 
Well, I tried a different ECU... mine's OK.
I put a new primary on because mine started to develop cracks in the spider.
Piston wash looks good.
The timing seemed ok when we shot a timing light at it...

And the R's were hitting over 8000 in the trailer with no belt...Once the pipe temp got hot, the R's started coming up better.

I'm still open for suggestions...
Thanks!
 
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