boost adjustments effect on jetting. turbo xp 800R.

[badass1000]

first of all what a difference 3 lbs makes. I have ben runing 7psi and just put a 10psi wastegate spring in for today. WOW!!!! Way better then I was expecting. I added 1.1 grams to my primary. was on clicker 3 and put it to 4. instantly on the rev limiter. droped it to 3 and it still hits the rev limiter a bit. Going to add some more weight. maybee another half gram. going to have to pull the limiter strap up some more on my timberlsed 154" skid. it is strait up and down in steep climbs like I have the stock skid again. Having to feather the throttle to keep the front end down. I made a couple climbs that no one else could make it out of. group of 10 and another 4 or 5 guys showed up to the one area we were playing in. first time I had a big run at it. second time I didn't pin it untill maybee 20 feet before the base. both times I made it out. alot of good runing sleds and a couple moded m1000's with 174" tracks. Mine was the only turbo sled though.
I had problems with loading up and sputering when I first turboed the sled. I got it all worked out and had it runing great. My throttle responce was perfect and no loading up or sputering at 7psi. Felt better then a stock sled with a **** load more power. Several people I let ride it said it felt like a built motor with a **** load of power. Unfortunatly now that I turned the boost up to 10psi today it is loading up and sputering on the bottom end. Throttle responce is great if on and off the throttle, but now loads up and sputters again if I let it idle for awhile. I don't know that something has changed just because the boost was turned up or if something else hapened (broken reeds?) at the same time I turned the boost up.
What has every ones experiance ben on jetting changes with boost changes? What have you had to change if any thing when adjusting boost presure? I have seen alot of people post that they are runing 320 mains. I am at 360's.
I still have not made a prefilter box to go over the turbo inlet. The snow was pretty deep today and I may be getting snow in the turbo causing the sputering and loading up. I pin it and it sputters for awhile before it revs out. I changed the plugs and it ran better. Seemed to not sputter as bad, but still doing it. some times worse then others.
I guess I may end up taking the air box off and carbs. check reeds and power valves also. see if they are all still fine. If they are I may try putting smaller mains in or try something else if any one has some good ideas.

thank you
jeremy

 

[badass1000]

adding to my novel above and more thoughts.
Last year I had a manual boost controller and turned the boost up to 10-12lbs a few times and it didn't seem to effect the jeting that much. just opened the power jets a little more. Sled still ran good and had good throttle responce.
Maybee my reeds did break or something else is wrong.

Just looking for what everyone elses experiance has ben with tuning adjustments when changing boost levels.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

yeah, the only thing that should change is possibly your mids a little and your top end as your boost usually comes on sooner and harder if you have it cranked up farther as the wastegate is hammered closed for longer. idle stuff is another issue, check your stuff out.

you should be able to keep mostly the same jetting, maybe just a tiny dial o nthe power jets, but if the carbs are all referenced the same way then the pressure should just equally increased no matter what the boost.

 

[brycter]

jetting all stays the same unless you are riding in a different elevation. you will just need to adjust powerjets.

you have a reed blown or a fuel reg diaphram.

 

[Bendy]

sputtering

My 04 just started doing that. Its running 50 degrees cooler on the mag side, and I dropped from 10 - 7 PSI. I checked the exhaust bellow, looked good. The exhaust valve is sloppy in the housing? Took the carbs off and looked at the reeds. They looked good, but as sick as I'am of working on this thing, I didn't pull the boots off and the reeds out. I hope its a reed. Runs strong when she's to the bar but loosing boost? Idle seems to be good. Its just burbly off idle seems like its loading up. Any suggestions? If it was a crank seal it would lean out wouldn't it? Thanks, Ben.

 

[badass1000]

thank you brycter.

I will have to check my reeds out tonight. going sleding tomarrow.

 

[badass1000]

Bendy
I wouldn't think a bad reed would drop the boost presure. I had a big crack in my pipe the first day I rode it when I turboed it. it would sputter really bad and not pull through the sputter at all. worked ok at part throttle and low rpm. I can't remember what it did for boost presure.
At the begining of this year I put a set of boysen rage cages in with turbo reeds. The screws were not tightened from boysen and the reeds fell out right away. Luckily the screws were long enough they did not come out all the way and held the reed and backing plate. it would sputter and egts would drop to 400 or so when I pined it and not pull through the mid range.
As much of a pain in the butt it is I would pull the carb boots and check the reeds. If you alread put it back together I would presure check your turbo system for leaks.
i ran the boysen turbo reeds in the stock cages all last year with no problems. I wanted to try the rage cages this year hoping for a little better performance and hopeing the cage going up into the carb boot would reinforce it and prevent it from riping. Brycter warned me that he had some reeds fail in the rage cages. I wanted to try it any ways.
Guess I will have to see what I find out when I get it apart.

 

[brycter]

yes a crank seal can be bad. if you take some either and spray it around the seal and it reves up you have a bad seal.

make sure you pressure up your bellow with a mighty vac sometimes the bellows come apart on a seam and you cannot see it until the boost is there. but my guess bendy is you have a bad reed or blown intake boot.

 

[Bendy]

thanks for the suggestions

When I finally got it running insanely awesome two weeks ago, it was running 10lbs of boost at 8300 RPM never went over 1180 F and I was running sraight 110 VP at 2500 ft. 400 mains, needles on 3 and fuel jets 2 turns open. It run perfect, perfect at any throttle position. After riding it hard for about 5 miles it started to burble off idle and run 50 degrees cooler on the mag side. I can still put it to the bar, pull 7 psi and EGT's stay very much equal. The sled will still pull hard, harder than stock, wow. I'm going to go through the whole system this week. There are a ton of teething pains, but when you get a ski-doo Turbo working, and your friends are saying, "That thing is nuts, half way through a deep powder turn, you're wheeling up, out and across the meadow on the back wheels". I love it! Can't wait to get it in the mountains. Thanks to everyone who has helped along the way.

 

[brycter]

any turbo system takes a bit to get them running. because most guys don't know there sled close enough or really what is going on. this is your first oneand you did it all yourself. you have to take some pride in that even if she sits in the shop for a week end. keep her up she will present herself and then it is rock on!!!

the market is changing right know alot of big money guys are getting in the turbo world and some problem are going to show up that will make them shake their head. so don't think it is just you.

all turbo's are like a hot girl with a std. you know you want to hit that but don't know where you will end up!!

 

[badass1000]

Well I got it apart last night and both carb boots were riped. One set of reeds had just the tips chiped up and the other set one was perfect and the other was torrn pretty good. I should have left it apart untill I got the parts to fix it, but the snow is really good right now and I want to ride. So I had one spare reed petal and replaced the one that was torn. I put silicone all over the inside of the reed boot and the outside and hoped it would hold.
Sled ran great and throttle responce was great..... for about a hour. I was pined for awhile and it just died. started it up and it would die if I gave it more then part throttle. Luckily it hapened where it did. half hour later and it would have ben in a area it would not have ben able to tow it out of.
I was hopeing it would make it a few days untill I got parts in. Hopefully some one has two carb boots local or I can get here by the weekend. Guess I will put the boysen turbo reeds back in the stock cages.

 

[mtn-doo]

Good find, and thanks Bryce for all your help !!! I also have learned the symptoms of a cracked pipe, verses split reed boot sucking air at idle then leaking boost at throttle, that one has two different characteristics. A little confusing at first. Then split EGT's and rich on bottom, bad reed symptoms. Once you get in tune with it, it is immediate to recognise these little signs and make a quick evening fix before the next day's ride!!! Good Job!!!
I found I could reinforce the reed boots under the girdle where the soft rubber boot turns 90 degrees to form the hard gasket where the 6 small bolts go through. "That area that wants to tear open". I cleaned the rubber well with acetone, then "welded" that seam all the way around the circumference with E-6000. Then while the glue was still wet, slid the girdle into place, installed bolts, then let cure and dry for 24 hours in a heated shop.

 

[Bendy]

Boots

Take the blown boot and tear the rubber off the aluminum. Cut out the center with a cut-off saw. You can now use this as a retainer with longer bolts to hold the boot from splitting at the seam. At least this works for an 04 REV.

 

[Bendy]

Problem with Mag side!

Well...... I pulled the airbox, carbs, boots and reeds. I don't know whats happening? Boots are good. The reeds are intact but I can see a very small air gap at the tips on 2 pedals on the Mag, and 1 on the PTO. Would this be a problem? I'm only having the prob on Mag side. I'm going to go over the carbs, use Ski-doo gaskets on reed blocks, check my boost lines to that carb and switch the exhaust valves side to side. Could it be a crack on the y-pipe on the Mag side? I'm positive the pipe is good too. @#$* it, I'll go through everything I can think of. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Ben.

 

[Bendy]

Torn exhaust bellow

I found a small slit in the Mag side bellows where I secured it with wire. That and the reed pedals are starting to chip and lift. Good news is I knew this would happen and had spare parts in my avy pack. I'll post a forum for all those looking to Turbo their 04-07 REVs with pics.

 

[badass1000]

well girlfriend had the day off work and really wanted to work on her street bike since riding season isn't too far out. so not much done to my sled today. going to work on the sled tomarrow.
Mtn-doo. where do you get the E6000 and what is it? I would try to make the repair like you described. i need to get it apart to make sure what is wrong. I am guessing reeds more then carb boot. I just hate to make a repair like that and have it fail while out riding. some spots we ride it is imposible to tow a sled out and trying is a huge pain in the ***. I might try it.
I got two new carb boots ordered, but they will not be here untill later next week. No one local had any. Dealer did a parts locate and nearest set instock was somewhere in michigan. I thought about calling and next daying them, but $$$$. Retail was $160 each for carb boots. got them from dealercostparts.com for $109 each and paid $46 for two day shiping. they didn't have in stock and have to order.
I will call boysen tomarrow and see what they have to say about the turbo reeds in the rage cages. see if they think they have something that will work now or if I should just stick with their turbo reeds in the stock cages. ran that all last year with no problems and they still looked like new.

 

[brycter]

e 6000 is what we have been using forever. Just go to walmart andpick it up. it glues rubber to anything.

 

[mtn-doo]

The e-6000 is the stuff Bryce used on my sled. Like he said, Walmart or elsewhere, then use the aluminum girdle over the top of the boot to smash down the e-6000 and tighten everything up. When you remove everything to inspect reeds, the girdle stays on the boot.

 

[badass1000]

ok. bryce mentioned the E6000 to me before and I couldn't find it at my local walmart. then latter seen it in a different section randomly walking around. Have to see if I can find it again.

well...... I went to take the plenum off and one of the carb presure tubes came off. I looked at it really quick and didn't see it. It is on the right side. the side that the egts were way down on. I would pin it and left side go to 750 or so and right side would drop to 400. It was like when the reeds fell out, but even worse. It is way overfueling that carb because their was wet fuel and oil all over in the pipe. I have boost presure to the top of the carb, the stock niples I believe the dpm hooks to, and then drilled and taped the carb right were it says heated and put a nipple their. the one that came off T's to the plastic dpm niple and where it says heated.
I checked real quick just by looking on the hill and did not see it came disconeceted from the plenum. I used to zip tie all those connections so they would not come off. it is kind of a pain to put the zip ties on and off though. I didn't put zip ties on and they have heled all this year so far. Man I wish I would have noticed that on the hill.
I am going to take it apart again just to double check since I already have the secondary out. check reeds and E6000 the carb boots with the girdle on it. Hopefully have it done and ride tomarrow.

 

[brycter]

yeah if you have one of those tubes come off you have no pressure pushing down on the fuel to keep it in the bowl. that sucks. glad you found it though.