Boondocking Suspension Set Up?

[boondocker155]

So I just bought a new pro 155 fresh out of the crate. What is the best best way to set the suspension up? In years past I've just ridden within giving set up a second thought. I wanna get this one dialed in. I pretty much just ride trees. I weigh 170 in normal clothes. If anyone has any knowledge please share! Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wjl]

Polaris has a good "starting" set up in the owners manual, just saying.
Start there and then do small changes, ie front two shocks toghther, rears one at a time.
Triple S usually has them set up well for this area also.
Can't do much until snow flies anyway, except stare an drool and pray for snow.

 

[sledhead9825]

36 inch front arms !! . I have Zbros without the sway bar. I also have there dual rate springs for the WE shocks. Going with or without the sway bar is a point that gets argued. I like it without, easy to try it both ways

 

[boondocker155]

Are the dual rate springs for the WE shocks worth the money? Do you only buy them for the fronts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jaynelson]

This is what I'd do for a baseline setup;

- Leave the swaybar in
- Set RTS for your weight as per the specs in the owner's manual.
- Set FTS to have roughly 3/4" to 1" of threads remaining.
- Set front ski shocks to roughly the middle of their travel.
- Set ski width in either the middle or narrowest setting.

Then go ride it, and try to observe:

RTS: If it bottoms occasionally on only the biggest whoops/bumps, it's probably about perfect. If it never bottoms - loosen it slightly. If it bottoms easily - tighthen.

FTS: Once you have the RTS set - small adjustments here can dial the sled's handling noticeably. If the sled wheelies too much, or trenches excessively, or wants to turn uphill on a sidehill - loosen. If the skis feel too planted, and the sled doesn't feel playful enough - tighten. There is also some preference in this adjustment - so tinker with it for what YOU like.

Front ski shocks: Less affect on the boondocking handling than most think. If it feels harsh on the front end - loosen them up. If it feels like it dives/falls off in to dips too easily - tighten.

Swaybar - I would leave this in unless you go to different springs/shocks with valving/rates intended for use without a swaybar. Some will disagree, and it's easy enough to try both ways. I would leave it alone until you get your suspension dialed, and if you like the feel I wouldn't even waste the time messing with it.

I wouldn't buy any parts until you try it stock - but I'm cheap.

 

[boondocker155]

This is what I'd do for a baseline setup;

- Leave the swaybar in
- Set RTS for your weight as per the specs in the owner's manual.
- Set FTS to have roughly 3/4" to 1" of threads remaining.
- Set front ski shocks to roughly the middle of their travel.
- Set ski width in either the middle or narrowest setting.

Then go ride it, and try to observe:

RTS: If it bottoms occasionally on only the biggest whoops/bumps, it's probably about perfect. If it never bottoms - loosen it slightly. If it bottoms easily - tighthen.

FTS: Once you have the RTS set - small adjustments here can dial the sled's handling noticeably. If the sled wheelies too much, or trenches excessively, or wants to turn uphill on a sidehill - loosen. If the skis feel too planted, and the sled doesn't feel playful enough - tighten. There is also some preference in this adjustment - so tinker with it for what YOU like.

Front ski shocks: Less affect on the boondocking handling than most think. If it feels harsh on the front end - loosen them up. If it feels like it dives/falls off in to dips too easily - tighten.

Swaybar - I would leave this in unless you go to different springs/shocks with valving/rates intended for use without a swaybar. Some will disagree, and it's easy enough to try both ways. I would leave it alone until you get your suspension dialed, and if you like the feel I wouldn't even waste the time messing with it.

I wouldn't buy any parts until you try it stock - but I'm cheap.

Thanks for the reply. I'm super cheap as well. That's why I want to dial this in and rock the stock set up.

What is RTS and FTS?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wjl]

RTS = rear track shock
FTS = front track shock

 

[Jaynelson]

Yep - also when reading about suspension setup...everyone uses different terms for the same thing, so keep that in mind.

Loosen = longer spring length = less preload = soften (all different terms for the same thing)

Tighten = shorter spring length = more preload = stiffen

The owner's manual gives you spring length measurements for the RTS, so just...measure the spring (don't count the aluminum retainers in your measurement obvs).

If you are trying to keep it basic and cheap, I'm pretty confident you will be happy with stock susp with a good setup.

 

[hoov165x]

It drives me crazy that some internet Einstein came up with "FTS" and "RTS". The industry has always referred to these shock positions on a sled as "front", as at the a-arm position, "center", as the forward shock in the skidframe, and "rear", as the rear shock in the skidframe. I have only seen these FTS/RTS labels on the internet in the last couple of years.... I guess if we were to rename the shock positions, maybe we should consider "FSS", front skidframe shock or "RSS", rear skidframe shock. That would be far more appropriate as the track DOES NOT have a shock!

Rant over!

 

[rmscustom]

A revalve by Holz racing was a night and day difference for me. Pretty cheap too.