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Boondocker Turbo thread

Thread Rating
4.00 star(s)
I have a 07 M8 with this years boondocker turbo setup. I put the exhaust exit towards the drivers like they recomended. I had some concerns about this location from the start but did not want to deal with the noise of running it out the side panel. I have been out twice this year, and on deeper pow days the engine would bog after coming off the throttle even more so when breaking trail. The guy behind the leader had less of this problem. If you stayed full on the gas it seemed to be okay. If you have ridden with boost that is impossible even in powder. especially if you ride in the trees! I had a good day of testing yesterday on about 10 inches of new and the engine never bogged once. I dialed in my fuel settings and the sled rips!! Has anyone else had similar experiences??? I am leaning towards running it out the side because I do not want to screw up another pow day!! Any info would help!

I have an 07 M1000 with the tunnel dump and I noticed the bogging issue in powder (to the point it wouldn't run) . We had clamped the pipe so I think it was losing its boost that way. We've welded the exhaust now and I'll see how it works, but the side dump is way loud. I know that Brad recommends the side exhaust especially on the M1000.

So, to answer your question, I think the side is going to be better, but I'm sticking with the tunnel dump for now to keep the noise down. If it ends up bogging, I'll change, but I'll fight through it to keep my hearing (and my buddies)
 
I would also like to give a thumbs up to shain and brad for all of their help and always willing to answer questions when problems occur. I appreciate the hours of testing and problem solving these guys do to help out everyone else and are willing to share their fixes. I am sure it gets to be a thankless job sometimes answering all of the stupid questions and repeating them over and over, as their phone is most likely ringing off the hook nonstop.

Thanks guys
Chad
 
I have an 07 M1000 with the tunnel dump and I noticed the bogging issue in powder (to the point it wouldn't run) . We had clamped the pipe so I think it was losing its boost that way. We've welded the exhaust now and I'll see how it works, but the side dump is way loud. I know that Brad recommends the side exhaust especially on the M1000.

So, to answer your question, I think the side is going to be better, but I'm sticking with the tunnel dump for now to keep the noise down. If it ends up bogging, I'll change, but I'll fight through it to keep my hearing (and my buddies)



shain has a fix for ur noise problem coming out and will still be able to run the side dump with ease. should be seeing it out real soon . i will have one for sure
mike:D
 
The 08 M8 Turbo has far exceeded my expectations with respect to performance, however part throttle runnability issues have proven a challenge. This due primarily to my lack of understanding of the fuel control functions, specifically the roll the exv value plays. The exv fuel is added to combat a lean condition which exists just before the valves open, that being said the 08 has a dual stage valve operation, with a mid open value of 130, full open value of 90, and closed is 157. The original mapping called for a BD exv value of 85, this is an un obtainable value, as even at full open that value would not be achieved, therefore the added fuel (around 5 pts) would begin at your min rpm parameter (likely 5500) and not stop until your max rpm parameter (likely 7500, this induces a lean step during primary ramp up for aux injectors and will result in an almost certain ecu 21 code. Not to mention the bizarre midrange anomalies that accompany unwanted fuel. I found through rigorous testing the best exv value to be 140, this ensures fueling stops as valves are activated. Remember if you have been tuning with the 85 you will now be short on fuel below 7500 (if that was your high) and after valves open, so add to low boost numbers but not too much as the duty cycle assignments of the boost map are 2 to 1 greater than the rpm nodes. (each boost pt = 1% DC, each RPM pt =1/2% DC) so be careful. As for the for the sheer performance nothing compares, not even the run of the mill apex turbos. With regard to the 120 hour install discussed earlier it takes me 11 hours start to finish and I am not superman. It will likely take a garager longer or anyone doing there first kit, and it is a job best left to a professional. Every connection, clamp, splice, tube, hose, fitting, etc. must be installed with utmost consideration for leak prevention, period, if there is so much as a question in your mind about a hose routing or barb seal, etc. re do it until you are absolutely positive it will not leak or chafe, ever. Every tuner who does an install should snow tune the unit with his or her costumer to tailor the mapping to better suit the end user, this generally takes 3 to 4 hours. The waste gate setting is critical and after install and prior to riding a proper calibration must be done. I use a mighty vac hand pump fitted with a pressure guage to obtain proper adjustment. The reason for this that the turbo timing is often altered during install, and is most often not very close when new.
Another point of contention is the CPC vs the BD turbo kit, though this is wholly against the focus of this thread, it seems appropriate to discuss. The BD is hands down, no question, absolutely, much much faster, even with both kits set at 10psi the BD runs away. The BD is much harder to learn to tune, much harder to learn to ride and is much more complicated both to install and to understand. The CPC is a nice, comprehensive, easy to install kit that is both easy to tune and easy to ride, it costs too much, and its not fast enough, and if you turbo trouble get out your tow strap and your wallet. Considering the kind of monetary outlay that a turbo kit represents, I feel when all is said and done the thing better be ridiculously fast, not kind of fast. Enough said.:beer;
 
Fixes

shain has a fix for ur noise problem coming out and will still be able to run the side dump with ease. should be seeing it out real soon . i will have one for sure
mike:D

Where should I look for these fixes??? Is he going to post results on here?
 
private thread

Can someone who was in the private thread for two stroke turbos on the old 4m please save and e-mail me part 3. I have parts 1 and 2 but never got the invite into part 3. If you wouldn't mind go into your profile settings and set it to standard, not enhanced so icons and stuff don't make the file too big. Also set the threads or posts per page to 100 so at most it will only be 5 pages.

pm me if you can help. Thanks
 
no boost

Cannot get more than 8 lbs, cannot find a leak. m7t bd 3071 intercooled. any thoughts as too a solution, would like to run 11lbs. ride 6000 to 9000 all the time. no tuning issues, thing runs strong all day, just can't get my boost up. boost controller turned all the way up.
 
Cannot get more than 8 lbs, cannot find a leak. m7t bd 3071 intercooled. any thoughts as too a solution, would like to run 11lbs. ride 6000 to 9000 all the time. no tuning issues, thing runs strong all day, just can't get my boost up. boost controller turned all the way up.

what does ur a/f read and ur egt's on a hard pull .. u need heat and a load to create highr boost levels 1275-1300 ur egt's and 11.3-11.5 on ur a/f is needed for higher boost levels like 11-14psi!! good race fuel as well
mike:D
 
Cannot get more than 8 lbs, cannot find a leak. m7t bd 3071 intercooled. any thoughts as too a solution, would like to run 11lbs. ride 6000 to 9000 all the time. no tuning issues, thing runs strong all day, just can't get my boost up. boost controller turned all the way up.



You need to tighten (half to 1 turn at a time)your actuator rod if you are CERTAIN there are no leaks. also and you need to check your boost controller and make sure the ball or springs aren't jammed or missing.
 
The 08 M8 Turbo has far exceeded my expectations with respect to performance, however part throttle runnability issues have proven a challenge. This due primarily to my lack of understanding of the fuel control functions, specifically the roll the exv value plays. The exv fuel is added to combat a lean condition which exists just before the valves open, that being said the 08 has a dual stage valve operation, with a mid open value of 130, full open value of 90, and closed is 157. The original mapping called for a BD exv value of 85, this is an un obtainable value, as even at full open that value would not be achieved, therefore the added fuel (around 5 pts) would begin at your min rpm parameter (likely 5500) and not stop until your max rpm parameter (likely 7500, this induces a lean step during primary ramp up for aux injectors and will result in an almost certain ecu 21 code. Not to mention the bizarre midrange anomalies that accompany unwanted fuel. I found through rigorous testing the best exv value to be 140, this ensures fueling stops as valves are activated. Remember if you have been tuning with the 85 you will now be short on fuel below 7500 (if that was your high) and after valves open, so add to low boost numbers but not too much as the duty cycle assignments of the boost map are 2 to 1 greater than the rpm nodes. (each boost pt = 1% DC, each RPM pt =1/2% DC) so be careful. As for the for the sheer performance nothing compares, not even the run of the mill apex turbos. With regard to the 120 hour install discussed earlier it takes me 11 hours start to finish and I am not superman. It will likely take a garager longer or anyone doing there first kit, and it is a job best left to a professional. Every connection, clamp, splice, tube, hose, fitting, etc. must be installed with utmost consideration for leak prevention, period, if there is so much as a question in your mind about a hose routing or barb seal, etc. re do it until you are absolutely positive it will not leak or chafe, ever. Every tuner who does an install should snow tune the unit with his or her costumer to tailor the mapping to better suit the end user, this generally takes 3 to 4 hours. The waste gate setting is critical and after install and prior to riding a proper calibration must be done. I use a mighty vac hand pump fitted with a pressure guage to obtain proper adjustment. The reason for this that the turbo timing is often altered during install, and is most often not very close when new.
Another point of contention is the CPC vs the BD turbo kit, though this is wholly against the focus of this thread, it seems appropriate to discuss. The BD is hands down, no question, absolutely, much much faster, even with both kits set at 10psi the BD runs away. The BD is much harder to learn to tune, much harder to learn to ride and is much more complicated both to install and to understand. The CPC is a nice, comprehensive, easy to install kit that is both easy to tune and easy to ride, it costs too much, and its not fast enough, and if you turbo trouble get out your tow strap and your wallet. Considering the kind of monetary outlay that a turbo kit represents, I feel when all is said and done the thing better be ridiculously fast, not kind of fast. Enough said.
 
Cannot get more than 8 lbs, cannot find a leak. m7t bd 3071 intercooled. any thoughts as too a solution, would like to run 11lbs. ride 6000 to 9000 all the time. no tuning issues, thing runs strong all day, just can't get my boost up. boost controller turned all the way up.


You running the heavy spring in your controller?
 
Please!!!

Can someone who was in the private thread for two stroke turbos on the old 4m please save and e-mail me part 3. I have parts 1 and 2 but never got the invite into part 3. If you wouldn't mind go into your profile settings and set it to standard, not enhanced so icons and stuff don't make the file too big. Also set the threads or posts per page to 100 so at most it will only be 5 pages.

pm me if you can help. Thanks


Ok boys the pm inbox isn't really overloaded with activity, somebody please help.
 
Anyone remember the guy from Montana I think that would/could build a catch screens for the turbine side of the turbo to catch debris? I had a little mishap and would like to run one and see if I loose any performance.
 
Anyone remember the guy from Montana I think that would/could build a catch screens for the turbine side of the turbo to catch debris? I had a little mishap and would like to run one and see if I loose any performance.

DW, Just be careful with those screens. I would make sure that it is really durable. I used one on an old 53 series that I ran on a 900 and it got so hot that it broke apart and ended up getting sucked into the turbo. My ounce of prevention ended up costing me 2 pounds of cure. On the brighter side I didn't ever notice any reduction in performance before it broke apart. DB
 
I was thinking there were issues on the screens in the past causing shrapnel to go through the turbine wheel. I thought if I could get some and change them from time to time, but that doesn't mean a new screen wouldn't come apart either. Maybe something in stainless steel. Oh well, still looking for a screen and a turbo or turbo parts, not to mention engine parts. Pricey lesson.

DW, Just be careful with those screens. I would make sure that it is really durable. I used one on an old 53 series that I ran on a 900 and it got so hot that it broke apart and ended up getting sucked into the turbo. My ounce of prevention ended up costing me 2 pounds of cure. On the brighter side I didn't ever notice any reduction in performance before it broke apart. DB
 
OK, I finally got a ride on my '07 M1000 that wasn't a nightmare. However, when I get out of the throttle and let the boost drop, and then open it back up, it will sometimes have a nasty bog. If I pump the throttle or ease slowly into it, then it will usually be OK, but if I grab a handful, it has a very tough time getting up to 5 psi. But if I can get past the 2-3 psi range, then it goes like stink.

A couple of times I was even able to get the engine to totally bog and not build boost at all with the throttle held wide open. I had to totally let off the flipper and then pump it to get it back onto boost. This can be VERY frustrating when trying to boondock and it almost pitches me over the handlebars...or when climbing and I lose the boost and I'm lucky to turn out before getting stuck.

Some thoughts:

1. I have the tunnel dump for the exhaust...could this be a contributing factor? I don't think it's the only factor as it did it whether on packed trail or in fluff a foot and a half deep.
2. Would a softer blow-off valve spring help the boost drop quicker so it's not reading boost and dumping fuel as I get off the throttle?
3. Will I have to learn a new way to use the throttle and double-pump every time I get into it?
4. Is this an accelerator adjustment setting?
5. Is this an exhaust valve adjustment setting?

Overall, it's almost rideable for me, but I'd hate to be in a technical situation and have the bog when I really need it the least.
 
Overall, it's almost rideable for me, but I'd hate to be in a technical situation and have the bog when I really need it the least.[/QUOTE]


Rhett, almost rideable is equal to "Not Acceptable". I know you want to be able to hit that throttle and know exactly what will happen. It sounds like your fuel settings may be rich (or lean) at 1,2, and 3 pounds. Thus the hesitation as you build boost. Also you may want to adjust your duration and sensativity on the ACEL pump. What is your A/F guage reading at full throttle?

BTW. We are planning to ride Sat. morning. If you can make it I would love to ride with you and maybe we can tweek those numbers a little.

don
 
Rhett, almost rideable is equal to "Not Acceptable". I know you want to be able to hit that throttle and know exactly what will happen..

Amen brother, you're preaching to the choir...I guess I was trying to be nice...don't know why when it costs a much as it does :)


It sounds like your fuel settings may be rich (or lean) at 1,2, and 3 pounds. Thus the hesitation as you build boost. Also you may want to adjust your duration and sensativity on the ACEL pump. What is your A/F guage reading at full throttle?

I am sure that better numbers will help it build, but the bigger problem comes from the on/off throttle transition. Brad gave us the numbers he came up with on Saturday, so I'll check those out. I just got a softer spring for the blow off valve to see if that helps in the bogging.

BTW. We are planning to ride Sat. morning. If you can make it I would love to ride with you and maybe we can tweek those numbers a little.

I'm so all over that. I think I have your cell from way back on the day your old king went over the cliff. I'll give you a call tomorrow.

Rhett
 
Cracked Exhaust Pipe (not a crack pipe)

Had my 07 M8T out for the it's 6th ride. Had problems with a bog about 6200rpms. Couldn't figure it out....messing with fuel settings, pressure, plugs, etc. Finally I realize my pipe was cracked on the inside seam. I know some of you have had this happen on yours. Do you have any solid fixes for this? Thought was to weld it back up, and add a bunch of hose clamp type straps to keep everything tight. Any input?
 
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