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Boondocker Turbo thread

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Anyone try an internal stinger, sure quiets them down. The stock pipe seems to like around 6" of 2". Doesnt seem to effect performance. Tetsed 2 units, one with, one without, rode all day, other than quieter and a touch more responsive no real differance.

M800 or M1000
The factory dosn't use a internal stinger on the M1000, and they do on the
M7. Do they use a internal stinger on the M8?
And in your testing have you pulled a long hill over 12lb boost?
Thanks
KMOD
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I would have to be very convinced that the knock sensor is really messing things up in order to pull it off, like I said I have two that are done that run great with the knock sensor in them. Apperently I have other issues. I pulled it off the trailer this morning and fired it. It had a hard time starting, which it never does. After it started, it idled real rough, I thought I had stuck a piston the way it was acting. Eventually it died and would not start. I pulled the pipe to look through the y pipe to check the pistons, and thank god they looked fine!!! Tommorow I am going to reconnect the stock injectors plug to eliminate the boondocker box and see if it will run. I was going to check to see if the secondary injectors were working, but it would not run long enough to for me to check them. Anyone else have any other ideas that I am possibly missing?

I got no ideas, but I am having the same problems that you are. I got my '07 M1000 on the snow on Saturday and it would build boost to about 10psi and then cut off dramatically (almost pitched me over the handlebars). The air/fuel guage was bouncing all over the place so I was wondering if there was a short...

Then we jumpered the secondary injectors at idle to see if they were firing and nothing happened ( I thought it would flood out or at least change the rpm) Then while idling it just died and wouldn't start up so we towed it to the trailer :(

It started great this morning so I don't know what sort of gremlins are in there.
 
I got no ideas, but I am having the same problems that you are. I got my '07 M1000 on the snow on Saturday and it would build boost to about 10psi and then cut off dramatically (almost pitched me over the handlebars). The air/fuel guage was bouncing all over the place so I was wondering if there was a short...

Then we jumpered the secondary injectors at idle to see if they were firing and nothing happened ( I thought it would flood out or at least change the rpm) Then while idling it just died and wouldn't start up so we towed it to the trailer :(

It started great this morning so I don't know what sort of gremlins are in there.



u got a bad ground or ur box is bad . if the 2ndary injectors dont kill the sled its ur box allmost everytime . unless u wired the injectors urself then they may be backwards!!
mike
 
M1000bd

Have 7 days of testing on BD TM1K. On the dyno was 251 hp at 7000rpm at 10lbs.

On the top end the sled is crazy, but there is some serious work to be done yet to get the crisp, clean everywhere motor we all want. After 7 days of playing with the bd box it is now coming off. Already had problems with aux fuel pump, it draws too much power, and the 1 to 1 fuel reg may be nfg as well. Aux injectors being where they are is a problem, they dump fuel into intake when getting off the loud pedal and that fuel sits in the air box waiting to cause burbling and loading and all sorts of fun problems. I have been able to get the thing to stand straight up in the snow from idle, but they bd box is too finicy, you have be on it ALL DAY, it does not seem to compensate.

Will be testing Pure Logic box this weekend with no aux pump or injectors and replacing stock fuel pump with higher flow pump. No plans to run more than 10lbs boost, should be fine. When culter finaly releases his billet throttle bodies with dual injectors (where they should be), that should be a really good start.

will keep posted. hopefully no burn downs to report. :D

any other m1000 folks out there?
 
Have 7 days of testing on BD TM1K. On the dyno was 251 hp at 7000rpm at 10lbs.

On the top end the sled is crazy, but there is some serious work to be done yet to get the crisp, clean everywhere motor we all want. After 7 days of playing with the bd box it is now coming off. Already had problems with aux fuel pump, it draws too much power, and the 1 to 1 fuel reg may be nfg as well. Aux injectors being where they are is a problem, they dump fuel into intake when getting off the loud pedal and that fuel sits in the air box waiting to cause burbling and loading and all sorts of fun problems. I have been able to get the thing to stand straight up in the snow from idle, but they bd box is too finicy, you have be on it ALL DAY, it does not seem to compensate.

Will be testing Pure Logic box this weekend with no aux pump or injectors and replacing stock fuel pump with higher flow pump. No plans to run more than 10lbs boost, should be fine. When culter finaly releases his billet throttle bodies with dual injectors (where they should be), that should be a really good start.

will keep posted. hopefully no burn downs to report. :D

any other m1000 folks out there?



those issues u have are on alot of BD Mseries turbos TM7, TM8 and TM1000. thats why so many will be going the route ur going .if they already havent
mike:D
 
I have personally built and test rode 16 BD turbo sleds to date, I rode my TM10 850 miles last year and my TM8 350 this year, certainly encountered challanges (usaully do to improper install) yet even with this under the belt I would not venture say I am an expert. Nice to see someone has it all figured out after a week on just one unit. This thread was to help BD guys on BD stuff, not bash it. I have a Cutler fuel pump too, still prefer the MSD. BD will send you a new version reg if you send your old one back. The stock injectors hate 70 psi they were built for 45-50 psi, thus the reason for the secondary injectors. Try adding more fuel to your RPM nodes and less to your boost map, then sort your accelerator high and low out. Your burble will subside. The BD turbo fuel control is surely a complicated instrument to tune especially considering every rider operates thier thumb differently, however infinately more tunable then competative offerings you spoke of. I think you may find that those who hate it are either unable or unwilling to learn it.
 
I have personally built and test rode 16 BD turbo sleds to date, I rode my TM10 850 miles last year and my TM8 350 this year, certainly encountered challanges (usaully do to improper install) yet even with this under the belt I would not venture say I am an expert. Nice to see someone has it all figured out after a week on just one unit. This thread was to help BD guys on BD stuff, not bash it. I have a Cutler fuel pump too, still prefer the MSD. BD will send you a new version reg if you send your old one back. The stock injectors hate 70 psi they were built for 45-50 psi, thus the reason for the secondary injectors. Try adding more fuel to your RPM nodes and less to your boost map, then sort your accelerator high and low out. Your burble will subside. The BD turbo fuel control is surely a complicated instrument to tune especially considering every rider operates thier thumb differently, however infinately more tunable then competative offerings you spoke of. I think you may find that those who hate it are either unable or unwilling to learn it.

Thanks Vohk. I am new to the turbo world and appreciate your experience. I had my TM10 out tonight on the roads for the first real time and holy cow that's a lot of power. However, I was experiencing the same sort of fuel loading when coasting. So, would your suggestion be to maybe increase the regular map in the higher rpms and higher loads or across the board?

Also you mention sorting the accelerator...that would help with quick throttle openings off of idle? I noticed that if I was pretty smooth with the flipper, then it ran WAY better than if I wacked it open or cut it totally then opened it up again. Is it a matter of experimentation to get right numbers?

In your experience, does every sled take significantly different numbers? I have the numbers that Brad put into a TM10 two weeks ago in Towgotee and they seem WAY rich, so I feel like I'm starting over.

Rhett
 
I have personally built and test rode 16 BD turbo sleds to date, I rode my TM10 850 miles last year and my TM8 350 this year, certainly encountered challanges (usaully do to improper install) yet even with this under the belt I would not venture say I am an expert. Nice to see someone has it all figured out after a week on just one unit. This thread was to help BD guys on BD stuff, not bash it. I have a Cutler fuel pump too, still prefer the MSD. BD will send you a new version reg if you send your old one back. The stock injectors hate 70 psi they were built for 45-50 psi, thus the reason for the secondary injectors. Try adding more fuel to your RPM nodes and less to your boost map, then sort your accelerator high and low out. Your burble will subside. The BD turbo fuel control is surely a complicated instrument to tune especially considering every rider operates thier thumb differently, however infinately more tunable then competative offerings you spoke of. I think you may find that those who hate it are either unable or unwilling to learn it.


i was not bashing BD 1 bit ... they make a great product .. and as far as installing 16 good 4 u . i have installed a few my self . i have been in this thing for a bit and have tried several things my self . some work some dont . i have countless hours on this BD box from 2 injectors which had issues to the 4 injectors which everyone got cause i got pissed off and wanted my large investment to work . thats why u got 4 injectors now. along with many others who i have helped . the new kits are far superior i here and u get everything this year that we didnt get last season. if u can make it work im glad for everyone that gets that . but many of us with the old first kits didnt have much luck .. sombody made a fix and im gonna try it . if it works great if it dont shame on me .i have faith in the people who make the fix i purchased!! im not going threw the crap i did last season again . id rather ride a stock sled than do that again . many others have had luck and many havent . im not bashing im just giving people another solution to a problem many have had . and once u have a bad taste about somthing why not try somthin else that might be better for u .
mike:D
 
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It is as much each rider as it is each sled requiring different numbers. You are right to be smooth on the lever, that helps immensely. The low throttle stalling is often running out of fuel not too rich. The hole of the tuning experience seems to be a road each rider has walk alone, find what they like, or what works for them. Its unlikely you will find that someone Else's map serves you perfectly. Just try different things and you will see.
 
In your experience, does every sled take significantly different numbers? I have the numbers that Brad put into a TM10 two weeks ago in Towgotee and they seem WAY rich, so I feel like I'm starting over.

Rhett



alot of factors go into it . but yes every sled is different . i have 12-15 people i have helped out all ride different areas elevations and have different air (denser air ) and i posted #'s every ride and each ride varried on temp elevation and what the barremetric pressure was doing . and all of them had the same thing going on . all TM7's and all different #'s . even when riding side by side they were way different .
mike:D
 
vohk what iNJECTORS ARE MADE TO RUN 40 TO 50 #S AS THE SECONDARYS ARE 80# INJECTORS WITCH MEANS THEY ARE MORE EFFICENT THERE THAN AT 40# WHAT i HAVE FOUND the higher the pressure the more consistant they get but you probably know this sence you have done this on the hill and ran this way for a season as I have , my point is just because you dont run your sled this way does not mean it doesnt work , fyi I have installed 38 kits and have logged over 10000 miles on turbo ms. I am not saying I have all the awnsers im saying you never know where youll find them if your looking.
 
Have 7 days of testing on BD TM1K. On the dyno was 251 hp at 7000rpm at 10lbs.

On the top end the sled is crazy, but there is some serious work to be done yet to get the crisp, clean everywhere motor we all want. After 7 days of playing with the bd box it is now coming off. Already had problems with aux fuel pump, it draws too much power, and the 1 to 1 fuel reg may be nfg as well. Aux injectors being where they are is a problem, they dump fuel into intake when getting off the loud pedal and that fuel sits in the air box waiting to cause burbling and loading and all sorts of fun problems. I have been able to get the thing to stand straight up in the snow from idle, but they bd box is too finicy, you have be on it ALL DAY, it does not seem to compensate.

Will be testing Pure Logic box this weekend with no aux pump or injectors and replacing stock fuel pump with higher flow pump. No plans to run more than 10lbs boost, should be fine. When culter finaly releases his billet throttle bodies with dual injectors (where they should be), that should be a really good start.

will keep posted. hopefully no burn downs to report. :D

any other m1000 folks out there?

gosh your story sounds familiar but I have a few pistons, cylinders, heads and a few bd boxes because of my stubbornness on trying to tune the hickups, blurbs, and such out of my sled.
I have personally built and test rode 16 BD turbo sleds to date, I rode my TM10 850 miles last year and my TM8 350 this year, certainly encountered challanges (usaully do to improper install) yet even with this under the belt I would not venture say I am an expert. Nice to see someone has it all figured out after a week on just one unit. This thread was to help BD guys on BD stuff, not bash it. I have a Cutler fuel pump too, still prefer the MSD. BD will send you a new version reg if you send your old one back. The stock injectors hate 70 psi they were built for 45-50 psi, thus the reason for the secondary injectors. Try adding more fuel to your RPM nodes and less to your boost map, then sort your accelerator high and low out. Your burble will subside. The BD turbo fuel control is surely a complicated instrument to tune especially considering every rider operates thier thumb differently, however infinately more tunable then competative offerings you spoke of. I think you may find that those who hate it are either unable or unwilling to learn it.
Glad a few to the majority had positive experience with these kits on M7 last year. You have alot of happy customers I assume. My positive experience left when I sent my airbox and controller in for the 4 injector recall. I am hoping to get the power and reliability I had with 2 injectors. Air box injection is scary to me and it sounds like a few companies are trying to work on it to put the injectors where they need to be. The minute I went 2 4 injectors I lost all stability in my EGTS when on boost. One pull they would be fine and the next pull I would have 1 cylinder 100 to 200 degrees hotter than the other. Never on 2 injectors were my Pyros 25 degrees off from each other. My 2 injector setup was alot more easier to tune and better running than my 4 injector setup. By the end of the season my boost became so radical from sometime making decent boost to making very little. That is even after replacing everything several times that might of had to do with a boost leak. Replaced vacuum lines and boots after one ride on them just because of it and trying to find my gremlin.
vohk what iNJECTORS ARE MADE TO RUN 40 TO 50 #S AS THE SECONDARYS ARE 80# INJECTORS WITCH MEANS THEY ARE MORE EFFICENT THERE THAN AT 40# WHAT i HAVE FOUND the higher the pressure the more consistant they get but you probably know this sence you have done this on the hill and ran this way for a season as I have , my point is just because you dont run your sled this way does not mean it doesnt work , fyi I have installed 38 kits and have logged over 10000 miles on turbo ms. I am not saying I have all the awnsers im saying you never know where youll find them if your looking.
Any idea where I am sitting on the list or when I might see the stuff for the items you and PL have coming out for the m7t's. I have a complete rebuild from the crank up sitting in my new chassis that I am dieing to get it on the snow and am not even going to try to run it on the bd program. Speedy thought I might be up there near the top on the list to get your fix you and Travis have worked out for us that had troublesome sleds last year.
 
Well I guess the proof is in the pudding as my grandma always says. I had a customers sled that is a tm7 from last years kit, that I did the airbox updated and computer reflash this summer. The first two rides this year I could not get it tuned in. It would act fine off of the bottom and midrange, and then just sputter and quit pulling. After talking to shain, I replaced the fuel pump(msd secondary pump), and low and behold the sled pulled like it did when I first installed the kit. We have been having consistancy problems with this sled at the end of last year along with my tm7. Neither sled has more then 700 miles on the turbo at the most. I think a problem has been pinpointed. It seems like to much of a coincidence to me, but you all can make your own assumptions.
 
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Well I guess the proof is in the pudding as my grandma always says. I had a customers sled that is a tm7 from last years kit, that I did the airbox updated and computer reflash this summer. The first two rides this year I could not get it tuned in. It would act fine off of the bottom and midrange, and then just sputter and quit pulling. After talking to shain, I replaced the fuel pump(msd secondary pump), and low and behold the sled pulled like it did when I first installed the kit. We have been having consistancy problems with this sled at the end of last year along with my tm7. Neither sled has more then 700 miles on the turbo at the most. I think a problem has been pinpointed. It seems like to much of a coincidence to me, but you all can make your own assumptions.

MSD pump........ I would never of suspected that. I always thought MSD made a pretty reliable product. Maybe could of been my problem last year for the majority last year as I replaced everything on the sled to try to figure out the inconsistancy. I even went as far as to replace primary and secondary springs in the clutch thinking I might have a busted spring. Had the Primary spring cup machined out as I thought maybe a binding spring might cause my issues on inconsistancy. Once by mid to the end of last season after a couple hundred miles I pretty well would go ride 5 miles and then back to the trailer to replace something wether it needed it or not to just to try and figure out why I could make boost on occasion and couldnt make any boost and get this thing stable.

Any easy way to test the fuel pump????? I don't need it anymore with the Purelogic setup but am curious if that might of been my tuning issues.
 
I'm not real sure of a good way to test it. The old one we pulled out of the sled we used it to pump some gas out of a tank, and it worked, but how well, I don't know what they are supposed to pump like. What I do know is changing it worked, and it seems that this could have been a problem for you. At least it is a cheap fix for others out there that might encounter the same problems, any auto parts store can get them or has them in stock for about $100, but if it is a ongoing problem it seems like just a bandaid fix for a bigger problem.
 
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