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Boondocker Capture Feature?

matt159

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
BD Capture Feature & Race Gas Tuning Questions.

I'm going to take the 2nd ride on my '08 m8 ADA RG turbo this week.
I tried calling BD today & the people in the know are out testing, so I'm hoping you guys can help me out before I take off.

I did a test capture at idle (can't really ride my setup at 1500 ft elevation), i can see duty cycle (04/04), Boost (00.00), RPM (1730), LO & current fuel setting (047) which is supposed to be the current fuel adjustment, but 047 is not. 3000 is set to negative 4 in my settings.

Screen reads: Cap 04/04 00.00E
1730 LO 047

Now for the hard part. Do the LOW MED HI settings not have any effect until you are past 5000 rpm?
My box only has settings for 3000 5000 and then LOW MED HI since it is an ADA box. No HI or LOW PSI settings even though it is a race gas kit.

Just trying to get educated before I go tune a little since I can't call BD while riding. Thanks for the assistance! --Matt

BD capture sm2.jpg
 
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You won't see PSI lo and PSI hi... lo-med-hi until you go into advanced mode at power up.If I remember correct hold left arrow and sel at start up to put into advvance mode then sel and right arrow at pwr up to turn off. I don't recall which set of directions tells you this.
 
The advanced setting directions are on the boondocker site. Way down at the bottom, but they are there. Once i put mine into the advanced settings mode it was alot easier to tune for exactly where you want to add and subtract fuel etc.
 
You won't see PSI lo and PSI hi... lo-med-hi until you go into advanced mode at power up.If I remember correct hold left arrow and sel at start up to put into advvance mode then sel and right arrow at pwr up to turn off. I don't recall which set of directions tells you this.

Thanks for the quick & helpful responses!

What are the break points for PSI lo & PSI hi? or will I just use capture to see what range I am in? How does the capture screen change to show me PSI lo & PSI hi? Thanks. --Matt
 
For the race gas setup you will want to put and keep the box in Advanced Mode - then you will have PsiL (to control stock injectors) and PsiH (for aux. injectors). If the box was delivered not in Advanced Mode, or you upgraded to a Race gas kit, then it may not be setup to run the Aux injectors correctly - you need to contact Boondocker to get the correct settings.
 
If you don't have a PSIL and a PSIH then you need to setup the box for your kit. If it's a race gas kit with the AUX injectors then put the box in super tuner mode, change the os to 10, the cr to 30 and put in PSIL 17 29 43 and PSIH 10 20 52. Then put the box into advanced mode. You should be good to go after that.
 
PSI L vs PSI H adjustment?

Thanks fastgas & Big Hoe. I did have the box upgraded to ADA last summer & apparently it came back not in advanced mode. The PSI was set at 20 40 45. I just got back to the house after putting it into advanced mode. Without any changes by me (other than starting it with the left arrow & select held down) it came up as PSI L 20 40 45 and PSI H 15 25 45 just like it suggests on BD's web site for m8 starting #'s. I didn't do much poking around, but I don't recall seeing settings for os or cr.

Which injectors (PSI L or PSI H) do you normally change when making adjustments? Both? One at a time? Depend on LOW/MED/HI?

I see it opened up a couple more RPM ranges also that are all zeroes: 6500 7500 8000 (if I remember correctly). I assume I'll leave all these alone & just mess with the 3000/5000 & PSI L & H when needed?

Great info so far! Much appreciated!
 
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To check the os and cr you need to be in supertuner mode. Turn the sled off or unplug the battery. Hold the right and left arrows and plug the battery in or start the sled. The screen should say super tuner mode. Cycle through everything until you find the os and cr. If the cr is up around 83 then the aux injectors won't come on, lower that number to 30. The aux injectors will come on at about 7 lbs of boost. Use the PSI low if you are under 7 lbs and psi high for over 7 lbs. You should not need to adjust the PSI H low very often, like wise with the PSI L hi. Make sure you don't get your psi mid numbers in either range to low, you need that fuel when you accelerate.

Put your box back into advanced mode when your done checking the os and cr. Don't touch anything else in the supertuner mode.

You shouldn't need to mess with the numbers in the RPM ranges except the 3000 and 5000 range. The starting numbers I put in an earlier post will work and you shouldn't need to mess with them at all.
 
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great info BigHoe. So the CR determines when the secondary injectors become active (is it called crossover)? What is OS?
 
great info BigHoe. So the CR determines when the secondary injectors become active (is it called crossover)? What is OS?

Damn, I knew someone was going to ask that. Yes, the cr is for cross over. You can raise and lower that number to change when the AUX injectors come on, you don't want much lower than 30, you want to have plenty of air moving before they come on. You run the setting up to 80 something for pump gas, that would make it crossover somewhere around 30 lbs of boost and you'll never get there so that is essentially the off position for the AUX injectors.

Now for the os, well, I wasn't really paying real close attention during that lecture but from what I understand, it is the minimum duration that the secondary injectors will stay on, I want to say the measurement is in milliseconds but I really don't remember. Someone like VOLK would probably have a better, more complete answer to that question.
 
Just looked at my sled again. Numbers currently: OS 20 & CR 13

Under the fuel menu:
OS was located on the PSI L screen to the right of HI.
CR was located on the PSI H screen to the right of HI.

I'll change to OS 10 & CR 30. From reading your post that explains why I was having trouble blubbering & loading up a couple times at lower boost. Twice I temporarily went down to one cylinder when I fouled the mag side plug at low boost coming down the trail. When I got clear out of the boost it would slowly come back out of it. Plug was really wet when I got back to the trailer. Always worked good under load in the powder, but trailing back to the truck was a pain. Makes sense that the mag side cylinder would get a little more of that extra fuel due to the secondary injectors being offset to that side slightly.

Awesome info. Never would have figured this out without your help! I need to buy you some :beer;:beer;:beer;
 
Be very careful using SuperTuner mode - like C setting is critical to how tuning numbers work. Always put the box back in Advanced mode, and remember if you start using different maps, to COPY the current map to the new map so the Supertuner settings will also be copied. The CR numbers are 4.5 numbers per 1psi boost, so 30 is 6.7psi which means the aux injectors will come on starting at 6.7psi (stock injectors will remain the same amount of fuel). OS is offset, and is used to turn the aux injectors on a minimum amount so they can start flowing fuel, typical values are 20-40.

Edit: If you have an earlier kit, you may take note of where the pressure transducer is plumbed in. Some earlier kits (2yrs ago?) used the throttle bodies (so vacuum is seen at idle), but all newer kits use the airbox which will change tuning numbers! (esp in the mid-range) and the consensus seems to be that this makes tuning easier and more consistent.
 
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Be very careful using SuperTuner mode - like C setting is critical to how tuning numbers work. Always put the box back in Advanced mode, and remember if you start using different maps, to COPY the current map to the new map so the Supertuner settings will also be copied. The CR numbers are 4.5 numbers per 1psi boost, so 30 is 6.7psi which means the aux injectors will come on starting at 6.7psi (stock injectors will remain the same amount of fuel). OS is offset, and is used to turn the aux injectors on a minimum amount so they can start flowing fuel, typical values are 20-40.

Edit: If you have an earlier kit, you may take note of where the pressure transducer is plumbed in. Some earlier kits (2yrs ago?) used the throttle bodies (so vacuum is seen at idle), but all newer kits use the airbox which will change tuning numbers! (esp in the mid-range) and the consensus seems to be that this makes tuning easier and more consistent.

A big thanks to these guy's for filling in some gaps in the directions and tech information concerning the BD boxes. The EDIT part of Fastgas' post was a major problem for me. The box would read -2.5 at idle and max boost would always be that amount lower than my boost gauge. Once I plumbed to the boost tube my problem was gone.

More questions....In theory what would OS=20 and CR=13 do compared to 10 and 30? Also Bighoe recomended OS at 10 and Fastgas said typical OS values are 20-40 once again how would that affect the sled? THKS
 
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If OS is too low, you could potentially have a dead spot between when the stock injectors level off and the Aux injectors start, which is at the CR setting (30/4.5=6.7psi). If OS is too high, you could suddenly get too much fuel right when aux injectors turn on, but I don't think you will really notice this effect very much unless you really look for it. I think this value needs to be close to 40 (which has produced good results), but for some reason initial tuning and testing was done using lower values which is probably why this value has a default low value. Remember, when you modify this value, it changes fuel across the entire range the aux injectors are on - so if you raise OS, you may have to lower your PsiH numbers (not sure exactly how much- but probably not more than a few numbers), and opposite if you lower OS.

Edit: OS can have an effect on the slope of the fuel amount the aux injectors give as boost increases. A higher OS with corresponding lower PsiH values can be used to give more fuel at lower boost levels and relatively less fuel at higher boost levels than lower OS with higher PsiH values would give (this would result in less fuel at lower boost, more fuel at higher boost). This is a little complex to explain without using graphs, but thought I'd mention it. You can also change fuel for lower vs higher boost using the PsiL, PsiH, and CR settings.
 
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Thanks

This has been the best training on the BD control box I have seen yet!! Thanks for everyones input on this.

I noticed somone mentioned earlier about chaning the 3000 5000 numbers does anyone have the settings they put theirs at going off the numbers that "BigHoe" stated in his post????
 
tuning process

I agree there has been some great info in this post. I think alot of us would like to know how some of the more experienced turbo tuners ie. VOHK, fastgas, BigHoe and others go about systematically dialing in a set up after a turbo install.

I think many of the riders out there have experience tuning in the NA boxes using the main RPM functions and even some of the advanced features. With that in mind what is the best way to dial in a turbo set up with a BD box after it is installed.

thanks,
Woody
 
What I learned from reading this post made a huge difference on my sled this trip! Thanks fastgas & BigHoe!
Once I pushed my CR from 13 up to 26 the low boost bog cleaned up instantly (mag cylinder plugs were getting very wet). Kyle at BD said the boxes last year shipped with the setting at 13, but they changed them to 26 for this season. I think 30 would have worked fine (as BigHoe suggested), but I stopped at 26 since it solved my low boost bog issue. I left my OS at 20 since all seemed to be good.

I'm running 9.5 lbs on AV gas and it was working well. I had a BIG hot spot when in the deep powder at WOT, 9.5 lbs and 8000rpm. The capture feature called it MID which was surprising. Without using capture I never would have guessed it to still be MID and probably would have burned down while adding extra fuel to PSI HI. I couldn't add enough fuel in the PSI MED to cool it down without causing a terrible bog at lower boost. Forturnately, I could add fuel at 7800 MID in advanced mode & put it just where it was needed.

I think I've got the low & mid tuned fine after this past trip. Running only 9.5 lbs, I only got into the HI range on a handful of long pulls that were pretty packed down. I'll try 10.5 or so next trip & see what happens. I'm only pulling about 7900-8000rpm most of the time, so I need a little more boost for the clutching I am running.

This thing is a hoot compared to the n/a m1000 last season! No regrets! :beer;
 
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