Bolting kit to my husky, need advice

[Norma Stitz]

So here's how the mototrax looks on my bike. The husky 511 is real weird in the swingarm pivot dept. so, the main frame stubs on the kit match up to the rear frame members on my frame. I'm not against cutting the frame to make new mount points or whatever is necessary. The right side seems workable, but the left is what's got my brain working.

Does the primary chain need any plastic guides? if there's no metal near by to come in contact is it necessary to have guides?

Should I notch out the husky frame and reinforce it to allow the track to come forward another inch or so?

Is there an order of assembly on the track as far as elevation of the forward mounting points? Or should I just aim for the swingarm pivot points?

Anyway take a look and tell me what you think.

 

[Norma Stitz]

More views.

 

[HalfBrit]

Do you have a fit kit for it?
Just my 2 cents. It looks like the pivot attachments need to be spaced way wide and then an offset chainguide would be used.

 

[Robster]

Those two (the kit and the bike) will sadly not mate together without proper mods that will take some time to make. Call Mototrax and possibly they can help out. The 511/449 is a sweet bike, but the special swingarm with the sprocket inside the swingarm fastening needs special fit kit.

Rob

 

[Norma Stitz]

No fit kit possibility with this unicorn bike.

 

[NEWDUCK]

Looks like ten ways to approach it. If your not afraid to modify Id cut the end of the mototrax down(whats the first slot for?) and weld tabs right to the frame to mount it up.

 

[Grr]

IN MY OPINION

I would not modify the frame. I would get 2 pieces of 3/4" aluminum flat bar, bend it in a dog leg to fit the regular slots in the kit frame, and to the factory swingarm mount. You could drill and tap the mount bolts into the 3/4", and a simple stepped bushing to center the bolt in the factory hole. Gusset the dogleg for extra insurance.
Don't modify either frame run it that far to the rear at least for now as it might work just fine

 

[Norma Stitz]

Cool. Yeah I don't mind the idea of a mod to the bone frame more so than the track kit for some reason. Not sure why. But to mod neither would be the best I suppose.
The first slot seems to be where they want me to place the end of the strut rod, on the spacer that goes between the legs on the first slot. It might be suitable to use the second slot for the strut rod, although it would need to rest slightly offset as the chain adjuster bolt is in the center there.

I didn't get a strut rod with the kit, what are your thoughts about welding a grade8 nut to a section of tubing to create a strut rod? Or maybe mototrax would sell me the rod.

 

[HalfBrit]

If you don't have the ability to machine something Maybe you could get 6 steel bushings from ACE. 2 pieces of 1/2" steel like in the sketch attached. Excuse my single axis graph paper. LOL. Just make sure the sprockets are lined up and size your bushings accordingly. drill 3 mounting holes in each bracket bolt the bushings to the bracket before welding them on to the steel.
you might not need 1/2" steel but something thick enough to not twist

 

[Norma Stitz]

If you don't have the ability to machine something Maybe you could get 6 steel bushings from ACE. 2 pieces of 1/2" steel like in the sketch attached. Excuse my single axis graph paper. LOL. Just make sure the sprockets are lined up and size your bushings accordingly. drill 3 mounting holes in each bracket bolt the bushings to the bracket before welding them on to the steel.
you might not need 1/2" steel but something thick enough to not twist

Wow very cool thanks for taking the time to draw that out. Yeah I was thinking along these lines as well, but I wondered if spacers would allow too much twist there. The bracket they provided are recessed in there and look quite strong. I have a mill and lathe so I can do basic machining. Maybe a thick aluminum bar.

Thanks again.

 

[Grr]

Use the bolts and spacers and then weld plates on top and bottom when you are done. No twist.

 

[Dam Dave]

I know you say you dont mind cutting frame but that is a forever mod and bike will be un sellable

 

[Norma Stitz]

I know you say you dont mind cutting frame but that is a forever mod and bike will be un sellable

The bike is already unsellable. It will probably stay snow machine for the remainder of its days.

 

[NEWDUCK]

The bike is already unsellable. It will probably stay snow machine for the remainder of its days.

Well freakin cut that frame move the engine down and back a few inches and a top mount turbo and call it a day then

 

[J&L Snowhawk]

You should just get a fit kit for any bike. I believe there pretty generic and move on. Bushings.

 

[Norma Stitz]

You should just get a fit kit for any bike. I believe there pretty generic and move on. Bushings.

Unless you have a husky 449/511. Trust me, they are different. The swingarm is concentric to the sprocket. No other bike I'm aware of can claim this.

 

[snowrydr]

Unless you have a husky 449/511. Trust me, they are different. The swingarm is concentric to the sprocket. No other bike I'm aware of can claim this.

I think the BMW 450 had a similar design. Not sure you'll see any of them being converted though.

 

[Norma Stitz]

Well true you got me there. However that's basically the bikes origin. BMW made the design and the gx450 was the result but they were not satisfied with it so they had husky tweak the design and put their name on it. So, it's pretty closely related.

Well, made a lot of progress today and it came off the bench. Maybe a little early, still need to paint the strut rod and made final adjustments.
The bike felt tall on the bench but now that it's on it's race sag it feels shorter than it did on wheels. Is that normal?

 

[Grr]

that looks perfect, told ya it would be easy! I want a closer pic


and yes unlike the others since the Moto is rising rate it will squat quite a bit and be pretty low. You can add some rear spring if you want it a little higher.


MOAR PIKS PLS

 

[Norma Stitz]

Cool,good to hear. Yeah it turned out to be easier than I thought. Just got a couple 1.25"x2" solid aluminum bars and started machining them away until I got what I needed. It was kinda fun. I'm only a little nervous about the way I bolted up the left side, as I sort of sandwiched the plastic chain guide and I'm not sure how much torque I can apply to that area without breaking my adapter bars. Can't explain would need to show. I'm racing to get it done for a test this week though. The snow is falling rapidly here.

Today's project is to fins a way to load and unload it from the truck. Need to make wheels for front ski I think. And maybe a 12v winch in the bed.