My sleds clutches have always got hot, woodstove hot. It seems like I cant even get 100 miles on a belt without blowin it or ropes starting to fray out like crazy. I tried gearing down and helped a little but they still get way hotter than they should. Any thoughts on what I should do 2 cure the problem and what belt would be the best for my sled, summit 600 ho sdi
Blowing Belts, Clutches get hella hot!!!
- Thread starter Ak_Rider
- Start date
Idaho Slim should be able to tell ya!!
He would tell you to break in the belt. Never hammer on it for long, feathering up to 7k RPM and below for 5 miles then stop let it cool, repeat 3 times. One more cycle of 10 to 15 miles, stop let it cool and then as he put it ride it like a thousand dollar hooker!!
I did it today myself. Hope it works out!
I hope I had that right!!
Good luck!!
He would tell you to break in the belt. Never hammer on it for long, feathering up to 7k RPM and below for 5 miles then stop let it cool, repeat 3 times. One more cycle of 10 to 15 miles, stop let it cool and then as he put it ride it like a thousand dollar hooker!!
I did it today myself. Hope it works out!
I hope I had that right!!
Good luck!!
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$ 1,000 hooker
Was she worth it?
Was she worth it?
Are the clutches stock? What gearing are you running? Have you disassembled and cleaned both clutches? Have you check for binding? Is there any marks on the primary from the belt slipping? What RPM is it running at? How is the clutch alignment? That is just a small list of things that you should check if you are having belt problems.
You'll have to ask Idaho Slim, he's the one who said it!
my sled is a 154". my clutches are stock. reduced top gear to a 19t. hitting 8,300 max with my clickers on 5. alignment looks good from what i can see. whats weird is that it peeled about 6" of top cog off. the rest looked ok. i have been hitting lots of pow with pretty steep pulls. not riding it like i stole it, letting it cool down after a couple of long pulls. i'm going to order the team clutch, jack shaft assembly. that should take care of everything. and yes, i have cleaned the sh*t out of the clutches.
Before spending 650+ on the Team set-up try my QRS Sim kit. It's inexpensive and IT WORKS!!!
http://snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69971
http://snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69971
G
go high fast
Guest
hot clutches in April......holy cow i never heard of that before.
gear down to about 2.4 or so, straight cut helix with much less angel that you are running now. Try a straight cut 40 degrees.........magic..........cool clutches and long lasting belts.
My clicker is in the Number 3 position and probably would be fine in the Number 2 position as well. I'm not familiar with your motor specs but max RPM for my motor is 7850 on a 03 800 HO ZX. Several hundred RPM overrev probably not that good so I would keep an eye on your tach.
In short, I think your belt issue is more related to gears and secondary setup rather than a clicker position or a jackshaft assembly.
gear down to about 2.4 or so, straight cut helix with much less angel that you are running now. Try a straight cut 40 degrees.........magic..........cool clutches and long lasting belts.
My clicker is in the Number 3 position and probably would be fine in the Number 2 position as well. I'm not familiar with your motor specs but max RPM for my motor is 7850 on a 03 800 HO ZX. Several hundred RPM overrev probably not that good so I would keep an eye on your tach.
In short, I think your belt issue is more related to gears and secondary setup rather than a clicker position or a jackshaft assembly.
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Regardless of temperature whether it is cool or incinerating temp; the lowest temperature revealed will be when you can run the engine at it's rated rpms.
Rated rpms: The rpms the engine makes its maximum horsepower at. 800R = 8150 rpms
If you run the engine higher than rated rpms [example 8400] the system temperature will increase.
If you run the engine lower than rated rpms [example 8000] the system temperature will increase.
So regardless of temperature you measure, whether its hot or cold or warm or burning or freezing - The lowest temperature you'll measure is when having calibration allow the engine to run at "rated rpms" on a sustained wide open throttle pull.
You will find and efficient clutch setup will reveal temperatures;
Hottest temperature is on primary stationary sheave [engine sheave]
Next coolest is the primary sliding sheave
Next coolest are the secondary sheaves.
Some will even find that primary sliding and secondary are cool vs. the engine stationary sheave.
The combustion heat is transmit through the crankshaft into the crank stub and onto the stationary sheave.
The sliding sheave is disconnected from the engine, the disconnection is at the inner sheave bushing....little if no heat will transmit through a bushing - the heat transfer goes through the belt.
Heat in the primary is caused by the belt moving along the sheave faces at a slower rate than full capacity and usually when the engine cannot run at its rated rpms.
If you are calibrating the system to run the engine at "rated rpms" - The belt will travel along the sheave face the quickest when the clutches are calibrated to run at rated rpms. Lower or higher than rated, the belt will not travel at the optimum rate.
Rated rpms: The rpms the engine makes its maximum horsepower at. 800R = 8150 rpms
If you run the engine higher than rated rpms [example 8400] the system temperature will increase.
If you run the engine lower than rated rpms [example 8000] the system temperature will increase.
So regardless of temperature you measure, whether its hot or cold or warm or burning or freezing - The lowest temperature you'll measure is when having calibration allow the engine to run at "rated rpms" on a sustained wide open throttle pull.
You will find and efficient clutch setup will reveal temperatures;
Hottest temperature is on primary stationary sheave [engine sheave]
Next coolest is the primary sliding sheave
Next coolest are the secondary sheaves.
Some will even find that primary sliding and secondary are cool vs. the engine stationary sheave.
The combustion heat is transmit through the crankshaft into the crank stub and onto the stationary sheave.
The sliding sheave is disconnected from the engine, the disconnection is at the inner sheave bushing....little if no heat will transmit through a bushing - the heat transfer goes through the belt.
Heat in the primary is caused by the belt moving along the sheave faces at a slower rate than full capacity and usually when the engine cannot run at its rated rpms.
If you are calibrating the system to run the engine at "rated rpms" - The belt will travel along the sheave face the quickest when the clutches are calibrated to run at rated rpms. Lower or higher than rated, the belt will not travel at the optimum rate.
We recently had our dealer go through both of the clutches, we saw him take them out and everything. He also changed the drive sprocket from a 10 tooth to 9 tooth, it gave more torque and helped cool clutch very slightly. Theres just normal belt resadue on the clutches now. He also checked for alignment 3 times.
