Anyone have any tips on bleeding the oil pump on a pro?
Bleeding the Oil Pump?
- Thread starter RFleck17105
- Start date
Haven't done it on a pro, but it is still a similar mechanical oil pump design to any other. On the Edge that I rebuilt, I pulled the pump off and hooked a drill to the piece that engages the pump gear, Then put a fresh battery in the drill and hold it wide open. You can watch the oil inch down the line and finally hit the case, but it does take awhile. Make sure you are turning it the right direction, that was counter clockwise for me.
I believe there is a bleeder screw now and that it can be bleed without pulling anything out or off.
There was also a bleeder screw on those pumps as well. Forgot to mention that. I pulled the line off the pump and allowed oil to the bottom of that line before hooking it to the oil pump. Once hooked to the oil pump I opened the bleed screw until it showed oil.
Even after doing that, you have to still solve the problem of the air in the lines from the pump to the engine. That's where the drill came in.
Even after doing that, you have to still solve the problem of the air in the lines from the pump to the engine. That's where the drill came in.
Just run it at idle and use a long screwdriver to hold the pump wide open. If that doesnt work you need to fill lines manually.
What about opening the bleed screw and blowing air into the tank?
M
mt.aero
Well-known member
If you have air between the pump and motor, you can remove each hose from the engine side and use a syringe to fill it. Bleeding the pump will not remove air here.
Air in the pump and between the pump and tank is removed via the bleeding bolt on the pump itself. Its the small bolt on the middle of the pump. From my experiences, bleeding the pump while the tank is bolted down does not create enough pressure to remove all the air. You can either pressurize the tank where it is or remove it and position it above the motor and use gravity to force more oil through. Filling the tank full helps here too. I've had a buddy pressurize the tank by blowing into it and that was enough to create the pressure needed to force more oil through and subsequently the air out where it otherwise wasn't working.
Its good practice to not have air in any oil line anywhere when you start the motor. This is the most important procedure on the entire sled IMO.
Air in the pump and between the pump and tank is removed via the bleeding bolt on the pump itself. Its the small bolt on the middle of the pump. From my experiences, bleeding the pump while the tank is bolted down does not create enough pressure to remove all the air. You can either pressurize the tank where it is or remove it and position it above the motor and use gravity to force more oil through. Filling the tank full helps here too. I've had a buddy pressurize the tank by blowing into it and that was enough to create the pressure needed to force more oil through and subsequently the air out where it otherwise wasn't working.
Its good practice to not have air in any oil line anywhere when you start the motor. This is the most important procedure on the entire sled IMO.
Last edited:
Maybe I should have been clearer. Im just trying to remove air bubbles between the oil tank and oil pump!
Anyone have a picture of the bleed screw?
J
j9845
Member
NOTE: If the linkage arm comes off of the lever or
adjuster arm, verify the oil pump lever arm has not
rotated over-center prior to reinstalling the linkage.
Oil Pump Bleeding
1. The oil supply hose must be filled with oil to bleed the
pump.
2. Remove the following components:
• Drive belt
• Oil tank/clutch cover assembly
• Air box assembly
• Throttle body assembly from the intake adapter
plate
3. Loosen the bleed screw (A). Verify a stream of oil
flows from the bleed screw.
4. After bleeding oil pump, secure bleed screw and wipe
up oil residue.
NOTE: Any time the engine is disassembled or
repaired, it is important to purge air within the oil
supply hose and oil pump.
Oil Injection Hose Priming
To prime the oil injection hoses follow these steps:
1. Locate the oil pump linkage rod end on the top of the
throttle body.
2. Obtain a length of wire (coat hanger) with a small hook
on one end.
3. Hook the oil pump linkage rod on the throttle body as
shown in the photo.
4. With the engine compartment doors closed, have an
assistant start the engine. Pull the linkage upwards to
set the oil pump to maximum flow. Continue doing this
for a few minutes.
5. Stop the engine. Inspect the oil injection hoses for air
bubbles. If there are air bubbles greater than one inch
in length, repeat step 4 until they are pushed out of the
hoses. Air bubbles less than one inch in length are
permissible, but you must verify they are moving
towards each oil injector when the engine is running.
The fact that the air bubbles are moving through thethe
hoses indicates that the pump is properly bled
adjuster arm, verify the oil pump lever arm has not
rotated over-center prior to reinstalling the linkage.
Oil Pump Bleeding
1. The oil supply hose must be filled with oil to bleed the
pump.
2. Remove the following components:
• Drive belt
• Oil tank/clutch cover assembly
• Air box assembly
• Throttle body assembly from the intake adapter
plate
3. Loosen the bleed screw (A). Verify a stream of oil
flows from the bleed screw.
4. After bleeding oil pump, secure bleed screw and wipe
up oil residue.
NOTE: Any time the engine is disassembled or
repaired, it is important to purge air within the oil
supply hose and oil pump.
Oil Injection Hose Priming
To prime the oil injection hoses follow these steps:
1. Locate the oil pump linkage rod end on the top of the
throttle body.
2. Obtain a length of wire (coat hanger) with a small hook
on one end.
3. Hook the oil pump linkage rod on the throttle body as
shown in the photo.
4. With the engine compartment doors closed, have an
assistant start the engine. Pull the linkage upwards to
set the oil pump to maximum flow. Continue doing this
for a few minutes.
5. Stop the engine. Inspect the oil injection hoses for air
bubbles. If there are air bubbles greater than one inch
in length, repeat step 4 until they are pushed out of the
hoses. Air bubbles less than one inch in length are
permissible, but you must verify they are moving
towards each oil injector when the engine is running.
The fact that the air bubbles are moving through thethe
hoses indicates that the pump is properly bled
Last edited:
Im assuming #1 is the bleed screw?
S
stem
Well-known member
I've just had to bleed the pump on my -11 pro, and I filled the hose going from the tank with a syringe, then I pulled the leaver to the oilpump with a j hook and started it up and let it idle for a good 10 min or so. After that I tipped it over at it's side with the oiltank up and let it sit like this the night over.
Got rid of all the air....
Got rid of all the air....
