Best mods for new 2015 Pro Climb 153" SnoPro Limited
- Thread starter Frostbite
- Start date
Thanks Dave, so I have an AMP 2" riser that also moves the bar 1 1/2" forward. If I get the one that only moves the bar up 1/2" but moves it forward 1 1/2", I should be very close to the riding position I am used to on M sled. Then going back and forth should feel more natural.
WAY MORE QUESTIONS:
I finally got a chance to pop open the side panels on my new sled. Oh man, did the questions ever pop into my head......my first impression was, man that exhaust canister is a tank! I can see why it's the #1 priority for weight loss.
Clutching -
Primary: I see there is a Yellow/White primary spring. What weight clutch weights typically come in the sled? Should I be hunting down a set of MDS weights?
Secondary: Back to the torsional secondary. It's been a few years but, no problem, how much twist is there (and should there be on the secondary)? Also what spring is in there, and does it work OK or need to be replaced? How is the helix? What angle is it and does the angle work well or need to be replaced?
Belt: Save the 084 as a spare and buy a 083 or a Dayco XTX as my primary, right?
Suspension: What are the desired shock pressures for the front and rear air shocks? How many threads should be showing on the bottom of the front track shock (rider weight 175 Lbs. without gear). Is re-valving required like on the earlier Cat Fox shocks?
Rear Skid Placement: The front skid bolt is in the rear or lower hole currently, is that where it should be? The rear bolt is in the middle, is that the best spot for it? Is the Geo like mod recommended for this rear skid?
Misc: - How does one get a service manual for the Proclimb?
Are there any service bulletins for the 2015 Proclimbs I should be aware of? How about ECU updates?
Does the telescoping bar mount require the BDX fix/beef up kit like the earlier versions?
Thanks for any input you can provide.
WAY MORE QUESTIONS:
I finally got a chance to pop open the side panels on my new sled. Oh man, did the questions ever pop into my head......my first impression was, man that exhaust canister is a tank! I can see why it's the #1 priority for weight loss.
Clutching -
Primary: I see there is a Yellow/White primary spring. What weight clutch weights typically come in the sled? Should I be hunting down a set of MDS weights?
Secondary: Back to the torsional secondary. It's been a few years but, no problem, how much twist is there (and should there be on the secondary)? Also what spring is in there, and does it work OK or need to be replaced? How is the helix? What angle is it and does the angle work well or need to be replaced?
Belt: Save the 084 as a spare and buy a 083 or a Dayco XTX as my primary, right?
Suspension: What are the desired shock pressures for the front and rear air shocks? How many threads should be showing on the bottom of the front track shock (rider weight 175 Lbs. without gear). Is re-valving required like on the earlier Cat Fox shocks?
Rear Skid Placement: The front skid bolt is in the rear or lower hole currently, is that where it should be? The rear bolt is in the middle, is that the best spot for it? Is the Geo like mod recommended for this rear skid?
Misc: - How does one get a service manual for the Proclimb?
Are there any service bulletins for the 2015 Proclimbs I should be aware of? How about ECU updates?
Does the telescoping bar mount require the BDX fix/beef up kit like the earlier versions?
Thanks for any input you can provide.
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Just run the clutching, if its working its way better than the M by far
If you put a forward mount bar mount on, it will screw with the handling. a Forward mount post make it want to steer into the hill. Something I would never do. Just lower the bars, you could do what I did and chop down the adjustable riser. Mine all the way up is the same as yours all the way down, then I can lower it 2 1/4" from there. Or get a T post top and put a shorter riser on.
On my 16 I chopped the T post down and retrofit a ski-doo adjustable riser on. Pretty much the same as my 14 now.
No updates on the 15,
If you put a forward mount bar mount on, it will screw with the handling. a Forward mount post make it want to steer into the hill. Something I would never do. Just lower the bars, you could do what I did and chop down the adjustable riser. Mine all the way up is the same as yours all the way down, then I can lower it 2 1/4" from there. Or get a T post top and put a shorter riser on.
On my 16 I chopped the T post down and retrofit a ski-doo adjustable riser on. Pretty much the same as my 14 now.
No updates on the 15,
A
arctic2009
Well-known member
A lot of your questions could be answered by looking at a simple parts breakdown. The proclimbs don't have a torsional secondary, they are a compression style. You should really just ride the sled and see what you like and don't like about it before sticking a bunch of money into it. Everyone has their preferences on how they like their sled set up. You need to figure out what works for you depending on what type of riding you are doing.
I looked in my clutch tuning book and see that on my 09 153" M8 with a SLP stage III with MDS weights with the shorter bolt in the tips and a stock secondary with a 36 degree helix and stock orange spring.
I ended up liking the Speedwerx H5 120/310 spring the best of the many I tried. The sled was pulling 8,200 while climbing and clutch engagement is 3,600 RPM after I added two engagement washers. I started with the 125/340 but, I always get a low end bog with that primary spring regardless of what I try.
I wonder how close this set up might work on the new 2015?
I see I tried the 1.507" clutch offset and really liked it. That's probably not even close on the Proclimb but, it shows I really need a service manual for this sled.
I ended up liking the Speedwerx H5 120/310 spring the best of the many I tried. The sled was pulling 8,200 while climbing and clutch engagement is 3,600 RPM after I added two engagement washers. I started with the 125/340 but, I always get a low end bog with that primary spring regardless of what I try.
I wonder how close this set up might work on the new 2015?
I see I tried the 1.507" clutch offset and really liked it. That's probably not even close on the Proclimb but, it shows I really need a service manual for this sled.
Not a lot of tuning cross's over, totally different drive train, some parts will fit like pri weights and springs
You won't get the same pull feel until you gear up. But the throttle control even stock will baffle you compared to the M.
You will also run a much higher engagement without a slam
You will also run a much higher engagement without a slam
manual for a 14 but almost the same
http://countrycat.com/ccstore/kbase/snow/2014/ZR_XF_M-2-Stroke.pdf
http://countrycat.com/ccstore/kbase/wiring_diagrams/2015_Snow.pdf
just as i said in your last thread
full slp with pcV
hyvo chain with manual tensioner
gripper skis and ride the chit out of it.
083b
then decide what needs to be done
http://countrycat.com/ccstore/kbase/snow/2014/ZR_XF_M-2-Stroke.pdf
http://countrycat.com/ccstore/kbase/wiring_diagrams/2015_Snow.pdf
just as i said in your last thread
full slp with pcV
hyvo chain with manual tensioner
gripper skis and ride the chit out of it.
083b
then decide what needs to be done
Good, this is the kind of stuff I am trying to find out.
Kiliki, you are on the same page I was on with the SLP setup.
The SLP setup will be $700 for the Pipe and Y pie and $500 for the Power Commander with ignition map timing. That's $1,200 for 8.5 hp. and a savings of 20.8 lbs (not including any required clutching components). You could use the Power Commander without the ignition mapping and pay $379 saving just over $100 for a total of $1,078 for 8.5 hp. and a savings of 20.8 lbs. Now, if I remember correctly, SLP is kind enough to offer a military discount. That might save some extra cash making the total somewhere between $900 and $1,000 for 8.5 hp. and a savings of 20.8 lbs.
SLP somewhere between $900 and $1,000 for 8.5 hp. and a savings of 20.8 lbs.
The Diamond S Lite Quiet Silencer is $579 and gains 4.2 hp. and saves 17.6 lbs.
The Diamond S Lite Silencer is $579 and 3.8 hp and saves 18 lbs.
The more I look at it, it really it is becoming a toss up for me again....
Kiliki, you are on the same page I was on with the SLP setup.
The SLP setup will be $700 for the Pipe and Y pie and $500 for the Power Commander with ignition map timing. That's $1,200 for 8.5 hp. and a savings of 20.8 lbs (not including any required clutching components). You could use the Power Commander without the ignition mapping and pay $379 saving just over $100 for a total of $1,078 for 8.5 hp. and a savings of 20.8 lbs. Now, if I remember correctly, SLP is kind enough to offer a military discount. That might save some extra cash making the total somewhere between $900 and $1,000 for 8.5 hp. and a savings of 20.8 lbs.
SLP somewhere between $900 and $1,000 for 8.5 hp. and a savings of 20.8 lbs.
The Diamond S Lite Quiet Silencer is $579 and gains 4.2 hp. and saves 17.6 lbs.
The Diamond S Lite Silencer is $579 and 3.8 hp and saves 18 lbs.
The more I look at it, it really it is becoming a toss up for me again....
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I hear you Kiliki, you have me rethinking it again.
I sure do like their stage III setup I have on my M8. That sucker absolutely rips!
Question, is there a measured period of diminished performance on these new Arctic Cat sleds when new? I know the new Skidoos take something like 2 tank fulls or X amount of hours for the ECU to allow full power output.
I sure do like their stage III setup I have on my M8. That sucker absolutely rips!
Question, is there a measured period of diminished performance on these new Arctic Cat sleds when new? I know the new Skidoos take something like 2 tank fulls or X amount of hours for the ECU to allow full power output.
not on the cats we don't need diapers or training wheels.
but my offerings is to bring it up to 3400-3800 rpm until the temp light flashes and go 30 seconds past and then shut it off and let cool till cold. Do this 4 times and ride it like you don't want to see it again.
This what I can tell you,
My stock powered 14 will crush your stage 3 M in the backcountry.
First, narrow boards and add steering, possibly drop bar height.
Next, The diamond s can, gear it with belt drive, put a lite hood on, that will put you around 35+lbs under. That's huge.
Then you can work on the clutching (mds), later add the slp y and pipe put together with Diamond S can, that will aff power and do another 6lbs. Although I would do the 3" powerclaw before the pipe.
I doubt you will ever find anything at your elevation to stop it unless you start to lose your mind
Don't forget I own ever make, and some M's last season. Riding anything but the cat was like going from a single speed banana seat bike with training wheels to yz450
My stock powered 14 will crush your stage 3 M in the backcountry.
First, narrow boards and add steering, possibly drop bar height.
Next, The diamond s can, gear it with belt drive, put a lite hood on, that will put you around 35+lbs under. That's huge.
Then you can work on the clutching (mds), later add the slp y and pipe put together with Diamond S can, that will aff power and do another 6lbs. Although I would do the 3" powerclaw before the pipe.
I doubt you will ever find anything at your elevation to stop it unless you start to lose your mind
Don't forget I own ever make, and some M's last season. Riding anything but the cat was like going from a single speed banana seat bike with training wheels to yz450
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Kiliki, yeah...no training wheels!
Wyomingboy, what boards do you siggest. I would guess Burandt but, I would misspell his name for sure. The Burandt ones look like what I have on my M8, I can't recall the brand. I just looked an I see the Cat running boards are made by BDX? They look good and at $359, I have to ask are they decent? I also looked at the Skinz, they are $357 and look fine as well. I looked at the Air Frame and several others as well.
I have now moved a 36" front end kit up on my list as well. I kind of have a soft spot for Alternative impact since I added his kit to my M8 last season but, tell my why I might want to consider getting the Cat kit instead?
The whole intake setup on these sleds makes me scratch my head. I have yet to pull the hood off yet (maybe today) but, I am truly at a loss what the best weight loss/ improved airflow/yet not obnoxiously noisy intake solution might be?
A couple more questions came to mind.
1. There was some slop and a tendency to break with the telescoping steering posts. I have the BDX beef up kit on my 09 to help prevent these issues. I see BDX no longer builds these kits. So, are the steering posts better on the Proclimbs and don't need the beef up or??? Also, will a 09-11 BDX telescoping post beef up kit fit the new 2015 telescoping steering posts?
2. I noticed I have Rock Roller in all my Diamond Drive secondaries. How are the rollers on the Proclimbs? Do they stand up better than the older rollers or do people swap them out for another type of roller?
Wyomingboy, what boards do you siggest. I would guess Burandt but, I would misspell his name for sure. The Burandt ones look like what I have on my M8, I can't recall the brand. I just looked an I see the Cat running boards are made by BDX? They look good and at $359, I have to ask are they decent? I also looked at the Skinz, they are $357 and look fine as well. I looked at the Air Frame and several others as well.
I have now moved a 36" front end kit up on my list as well. I kind of have a soft spot for Alternative impact since I added his kit to my M8 last season but, tell my why I might want to consider getting the Cat kit instead?
The whole intake setup on these sleds makes me scratch my head. I have yet to pull the hood off yet (maybe today) but, I am truly at a loss what the best weight loss/ improved airflow/yet not obnoxiously noisy intake solution might be?
A couple more questions came to mind.
1. There was some slop and a tendency to break with the telescoping steering posts. I have the BDX beef up kit on my 09 to help prevent these issues. I see BDX no longer builds these kits. So, are the steering posts better on the Proclimbs and don't need the beef up or??? Also, will a 09-11 BDX telescoping post beef up kit fit the new 2015 telescoping steering posts?
2. I noticed I have Rock Roller in all my Diamond Drive secondaries. How are the rollers on the Proclimbs? Do they stand up better than the older rollers or do people swap them out for another type of roller?
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Never had or seen an issue with the adjustable post as long as you make sure they are locked in place.
Rollers are fine.
Burandt boards are a custom fab job
Rollers are fine.
Burandt boards are a custom fab job
Thanks again.
Here are a few of the questions I don't recall seeing answers to just yet.
Are there any service bulletins for the 2015 Proclimbs I should be aware of? How about ECU updates?
Suspension: What are the desired shock pressures for the front and rear air shocks? How many threads should be showing on the bottom of the front track shock (rider weight 175 Lbs. without gear). Is re-valving required like on the earlier Cat Fox shocks?
Rear Skid Placement: The front skid bolt is in the rear or lower hole currently, is that where it should be? The rear bolt is in the middle, is that the best spot for it? Is the Geo like mod recommended for this rear skid?
Will my 09 M8 clutch puller work on the 2015?
Also, has track porting gone out like a wrecking ball, or does it still have some merit? Here's a picture I just took of the 2.6 PC on my 09 M8.
Here are a few of the questions I don't recall seeing answers to just yet.
Are there any service bulletins for the 2015 Proclimbs I should be aware of? How about ECU updates?
Suspension: What are the desired shock pressures for the front and rear air shocks? How many threads should be showing on the bottom of the front track shock (rider weight 175 Lbs. without gear). Is re-valving required like on the earlier Cat Fox shocks?
Rear Skid Placement: The front skid bolt is in the rear or lower hole currently, is that where it should be? The rear bolt is in the middle, is that the best spot for it? Is the Geo like mod recommended for this rear skid?
Will my 09 M8 clutch puller work on the 2015?
Also, has track porting gone out like a wrecking ball, or does it still have some merit? Here's a picture I just took of the 2.6 PC on my 09 M8.
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suggested starting point so take it for what its worth
front shocks 70 psi
rear shock 135 psi front skid shock about 6 turn and work up until ski pressure is to your liking
puller will not work you need a 10 and up
no ecu updates that i know of
leave the rear skid in the stock location.
I think track porting is dead.
front shocks 70 psi
rear shock 135 psi front skid shock about 6 turn and work up until ski pressure is to your liking
puller will not work you need a 10 and up
no ecu updates that i know of
leave the rear skid in the stock location.
I think track porting is dead.
I'm 175.
My front shocks are 65.
Front skid is just over 1inch of threads showing.
Rear shock is 125.
I like a light frontend and this has worked for me the last 2 seasons.
But everyone is different.
Los frijoles estan muy caliente dijo la mama osa!
My front shocks are 65.
Front skid is just over 1inch of threads showing.
Rear shock is 125.
I like a light frontend and this has worked for me the last 2 seasons.
But everyone is different.
Los frijoles estan muy caliente dijo la mama osa!
