Thanks SAP, your the man.
Apex powderlites install, tips? tricks?
- Thread starter Boostfreak
- Start date
Bump. I started on the motor, got the head shim in and still waiting for valve shims so I can finish putting the motor back together. Cant quite see in the pics, but where do they pull the oil from for the turbo? In the vid they have the plate that goes behind the filter with the bango bolt, but dont see that in the kit. Thanks
You should have got a swagelock tee with the kit, remove the oil pressure sensor, install tee, oil pressure sensor,and braided line up to the turbo. That is what mine came with...
You should have got a swagelock tee with the kit, remove the oil pressure sensor, install tee, oil pressure sensor,and braided line up to the turbo. That is what mine came with...
That is it^^^^. It is up and to the right from the oil filter. It sits vertical. Put the T in between the block and the oil sensor and plumb from there to the turbo.... There is no plate on this kit at the oil filter.
Sweet I got the tee. was guessing from the pics that it went there. one more thing. Sap in your pics I see you have the red and blue fittings that go from the turbo to the coolant lines. I dont have anything that looks similiar at all. any ideas if they changed those for something else? Thanks alot
Dave should have sent you the updated solid stainless lines with banjo bolts, and washers. I put them on mine last year with no leaks. They are about 5" long and still use a hose clamp, but away from the heat. They are way better than the original ones that the kit was sent with.
Once the motor work is done, you have to start with
*get your delta box back on
*Dryfit header- check to see if turbo flange gussets hit the steering cross brase on the front side of the header by the flange.
* Get your stock lower heat shield cut to fit the new header.
*Get your new block off plate for the old exhaust holes installed
* Get your header installed with a stock yamaha exhaust gasket using the new loc washers and the new longer bolts and torque the best you can.
* Install/mock up the turbo on the header with 2 bolts and no gasket
* Install the upper portion of the down pipe with 3 bolts, make sure the down pipe flange is flat on turbo. there was some warpage, so it took three bolts to get the down pipe perfectly flat.
* Now trace with a sharpie where the exit hole is in the bulkhead, find center from you marks and drill a 2 1/4 hole with a hole saw to start with, then finalized the hole with a die grinder and a carbide deburing tool.
* Remove the down pipe, add the lower slip on pipe and reinstall down pipe. Now from the inside of the tunnel mark your down pipe where you want it cut off with a sharpie. remove down pipe and cut to get it perfect, you only want an 1/8 inside the tunnel maximum, its an accurate cut.
*Once the down pipe is cut to fit perfectly weld on the lower slip pipe to the upper one. wire feed, mig or tig.
*Install the upper stock heat shield cut to fit around the header using only 3 of the bolts
*remove down pipe and turbo,
* change your your plugs if need be, or make sure they are gapped .022 thousands.
*I left the a bolt out of left/pto spark plug cap and turned it so the wires were not pointed down by the hot side of the turbo and wrapped it with heat tape. I then removed the stock valve cover oil filler cap and install the new billet one for the turbo oil return line.
* I then rerouted the relay wires to the mag sid of the sled. Take your time to get the wires routed, there is a lot of wires up there and they need to be as far away form the turbo as possible. I remove the stock acc plug , cut it and sliced it into the boost guage power. I then had to extend the wires 8 inches for the fuel sensor in the tank. I once I was sure that everything fit nicely, even both of the antifreeze bottles, then wrapped the entire wire looms with heat tape several times. I wrapped the wirelooms up to the bars 4 inches about the dash plastic.
*Using your stock vent hose off your airbox, install it as your new gas tank pick up hose. Use the green compression type clamps and bust the tabs off so it fits in the hole, use thread tape, so there is no leaks. I also used some 1211 on my fuel sensor with the orings.
Then set the tank aside.
* Now remove the snail from the turbo insert via snap ring, make sure you remember how the snap ring is installed, its tapered so it will need to be reinstalled the same way, and its a bear to reinstall, it may take some perswading.
Install the turbo oil drain line and plate and gasket, it points forward.
* Install the turbo using the supplied header to turbo gasket(T25)
* Install the water line hose bibs with the new style bolts and brass washers, the bent one is on the mag side upwards and the straight one is on the pto side, pointed as down and forward as much as it can without interfering with the snail. Snug these for now, you will need to tighten them later once you have the fitment perfect.
* Now using the old 3/8 hose off the thermostat housing to the oil cooler as a new waterline for the turbo. You may need a small 90 to make that hose work at the thermostat housing. I used a 1/2 brass pex 90 and some clamps.
* Then use the supplied hose to run a line back to the oil cooler, wrap this hose to protect it between the delta box and the motor.
* Remove oil sending unit, install new tee and reinstall oil sensor. I had to install a 90 mikuni pilot jet in the end of the fitting that threads into the tee. The 1/8 pipe thread/ 3AN fitting adapter I tapped it with a 5mm x .8 tap so the pilot jet fits in nicely. This is to reduce the oil supply to .035. Now install new oil line routed to the mag side above all other hoses around up in front of the the steering post and them to the top of your turbo. Dont connect the oil line at the turbo untill you have the oil line connected to the tee, it has a 90 degree bend and it your dont get it right it makes starting the threads at the turbo a pain. Once fit, tighten both ends of oil lines. Be careful with what the braided line come it contact with, its like a saw.
*remove the fuel supply to the throttle bodies, now cut the hose from the 90 degree plastic fitting carefully, reuse the 90 fitting to supply the throttle bodies using the supplied fuel lines and clamps. run it down msd fuel pump moumted to the delta box and mount it there carefully. Remember that the intercooler had a flange that sticks below the delta box 5/8 of an inch, so you may need to make a mount with a custom plate. now cut and install the two red wire ends to the stock pump wires from the stock tank pump rerouted down to your new msd fuel pump. Now your supply from your tank is a tricky one, run it above all the stock oil lines, above all the stock water lines, to the tank, between the two water bottles.
* you will need to loosen the throttle body clamps and pull the throttle bodies loose to install small zip ties to all the small vaccum lines on the back of the throttle bodies. you will need to tee in to the hose between the map sensor and 1 and 2 somewhere to get your new boost supply for the 3 bar map sensor, bov, and boost gauge.
* install your wire harness for the rb3, put the 2 or 3 bar sensor, and the white pick triggers in the front of the sled down at the rectifier, since thats where the trigger plugs are. now unplug the fuel injection plug and mate the two new rb3 plugs in, its a un plug and match up the two plugs from the rb3 injection plugs. the trigger plugs are the same way.
I ran the rest of the rb3 wires up towards the water bottles by the new relay location. I then ran the red and blue key plugs to the key plug in. I am running the black dash holder that goes accross the top of the throttle bodies, I had to modify it to fit, but I am using it. I used the mag side rear bolt of that black rack for my rb3, boost gauge, o2 sensor ground location.
I will finish this tonight. have to get to work....
*get your delta box back on
*Dryfit header- check to see if turbo flange gussets hit the steering cross brase on the front side of the header by the flange.
* Get your stock lower heat shield cut to fit the new header.
*Get your new block off plate for the old exhaust holes installed
* Get your header installed with a stock yamaha exhaust gasket using the new loc washers and the new longer bolts and torque the best you can.
* Install/mock up the turbo on the header with 2 bolts and no gasket
* Install the upper portion of the down pipe with 3 bolts, make sure the down pipe flange is flat on turbo. there was some warpage, so it took three bolts to get the down pipe perfectly flat.
* Now trace with a sharpie where the exit hole is in the bulkhead, find center from you marks and drill a 2 1/4 hole with a hole saw to start with, then finalized the hole with a die grinder and a carbide deburing tool.
* Remove the down pipe, add the lower slip on pipe and reinstall down pipe. Now from the inside of the tunnel mark your down pipe where you want it cut off with a sharpie. remove down pipe and cut to get it perfect, you only want an 1/8 inside the tunnel maximum, its an accurate cut.
*Once the down pipe is cut to fit perfectly weld on the lower slip pipe to the upper one. wire feed, mig or tig.
*Install the upper stock heat shield cut to fit around the header using only 3 of the bolts
*remove down pipe and turbo,
* change your your plugs if need be, or make sure they are gapped .022 thousands.
*I left the a bolt out of left/pto spark plug cap and turned it so the wires were not pointed down by the hot side of the turbo and wrapped it with heat tape. I then removed the stock valve cover oil filler cap and install the new billet one for the turbo oil return line.
* I then rerouted the relay wires to the mag sid of the sled. Take your time to get the wires routed, there is a lot of wires up there and they need to be as far away form the turbo as possible. I remove the stock acc plug , cut it and sliced it into the boost guage power. I then had to extend the wires 8 inches for the fuel sensor in the tank. I once I was sure that everything fit nicely, even both of the antifreeze bottles, then wrapped the entire wire looms with heat tape several times. I wrapped the wirelooms up to the bars 4 inches about the dash plastic.
*Using your stock vent hose off your airbox, install it as your new gas tank pick up hose. Use the green compression type clamps and bust the tabs off so it fits in the hole, use thread tape, so there is no leaks. I also used some 1211 on my fuel sensor with the orings.
Then set the tank aside.
* Now remove the snail from the turbo insert via snap ring, make sure you remember how the snap ring is installed, its tapered so it will need to be reinstalled the same way, and its a bear to reinstall, it may take some perswading.
Install the turbo oil drain line and plate and gasket, it points forward.
* Install the turbo using the supplied header to turbo gasket(T25)
* Install the water line hose bibs with the new style bolts and brass washers, the bent one is on the mag side upwards and the straight one is on the pto side, pointed as down and forward as much as it can without interfering with the snail. Snug these for now, you will need to tighten them later once you have the fitment perfect.
* Now using the old 3/8 hose off the thermostat housing to the oil cooler as a new waterline for the turbo. You may need a small 90 to make that hose work at the thermostat housing. I used a 1/2 brass pex 90 and some clamps.
* Then use the supplied hose to run a line back to the oil cooler, wrap this hose to protect it between the delta box and the motor.
* Remove oil sending unit, install new tee and reinstall oil sensor. I had to install a 90 mikuni pilot jet in the end of the fitting that threads into the tee. The 1/8 pipe thread/ 3AN fitting adapter I tapped it with a 5mm x .8 tap so the pilot jet fits in nicely. This is to reduce the oil supply to .035. Now install new oil line routed to the mag side above all other hoses around up in front of the the steering post and them to the top of your turbo. Dont connect the oil line at the turbo untill you have the oil line connected to the tee, it has a 90 degree bend and it your dont get it right it makes starting the threads at the turbo a pain. Once fit, tighten both ends of oil lines. Be careful with what the braided line come it contact with, its like a saw.
*remove the fuel supply to the throttle bodies, now cut the hose from the 90 degree plastic fitting carefully, reuse the 90 fitting to supply the throttle bodies using the supplied fuel lines and clamps. run it down msd fuel pump moumted to the delta box and mount it there carefully. Remember that the intercooler had a flange that sticks below the delta box 5/8 of an inch, so you may need to make a mount with a custom plate. now cut and install the two red wire ends to the stock pump wires from the stock tank pump rerouted down to your new msd fuel pump. Now your supply from your tank is a tricky one, run it above all the stock oil lines, above all the stock water lines, to the tank, between the two water bottles.
* you will need to loosen the throttle body clamps and pull the throttle bodies loose to install small zip ties to all the small vaccum lines on the back of the throttle bodies. you will need to tee in to the hose between the map sensor and 1 and 2 somewhere to get your new boost supply for the 3 bar map sensor, bov, and boost gauge.
* install your wire harness for the rb3, put the 2 or 3 bar sensor, and the white pick triggers in the front of the sled down at the rectifier, since thats where the trigger plugs are. now unplug the fuel injection plug and mate the two new rb3 plugs in, its a un plug and match up the two plugs from the rb3 injection plugs. the trigger plugs are the same way.
I ran the rest of the rb3 wires up towards the water bottles by the new relay location. I then ran the red and blue key plugs to the key plug in. I am running the black dash holder that goes accross the top of the throttle bodies, I had to modify it to fit, but I am using it. I used the mag side rear bolt of that black rack for my rb3, boost gauge, o2 sensor ground location.
I will finish this tonight. have to get to work....
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Wow thats alot of typing! Thanks alot for the info! Good luck on getting your install finished up. This will help clear up alot of small questions I am sure I would have had! Thanks again
Getting all my wiring hooked back up and have one plug left that i cant find a home for. It is by the fan in the right footwell, a 2 plug connector with a pink wire and a blue wire with red stripe. Its next to the 2 wire connector that is plugged. Is this one not used either? Also on the RB3 harness are the white 2 plug connectors the triggers that plug in by the rectifier? and what are the two single wire spade plugs for? they are by the plug into the RB3 box, do they go into the two female spades that are already on the sled? If so which color to which color?Thanks alot!
those single wires are for the grey/switch maps and brown/studder switch. Ground the grey and that is the race map in the rb3, ground the brown and thats your studder button. Now the other wires by the fan are just blank. I think they might use that harness for several applications
Jim
Jim
so for normal riding would you leave both of those wires on rb3 harness not connected to anything? do you know what is different on the race map versus the standard map? oh and the white 2 pin on the rb3 goes into the plug by the rectifier right? Thanks alot for all the help. gettin pretty excited to get this thing fired up!!
Tim
Tim
The map you have is probably his switch map. It has a pump gas map and a race map that can be toggled between if you hook up the grey to a button that can be grounded. I am not a fan of the switch maps. It is hard to tell on the hill what map you are on. I keep all of my maps seperate on my phone and then load them that way if I want to switch. I would hook up a Honda kill switch somewhere on your bars to switch maps/grey wire if that is what you want to do.
Yes the white two wire hooks up by the rectifier.
Have fun. Spend some time looking at the RB3 software so you fully understand it. It is a pretty simple program.
Yes the white two wire hooks up by the rectifier.
Have fun. Spend some time looking at the RB3 software so you fully understand it. It is a pretty simple program.
