Just wondering if anyone tried running their front skid in the lower hole like the assaults do. Any noticeable difference? I play in the tight trees, that's why I got the narrower stanced pro rmk. And jump alot. I wonder if it's worth a try?
Anyone try putting the front of their rear skid in the lower hole like the assaults
- Thread starter Destroyer
- Start date
ttt.cant believe no one tried it or can comment on pro rmk vs. assault handling
I have a 2012 Assault and riding in the trees and tight stuff is all I do. I moved the skid to the upper hole. You'll find with it in the lower hole it wheelies to much and also trenches badly. I have a 2011 Pro 155 and it would get on top alot better than the Assault. I have a 2.5 camo on the Assault and with the skid in the upper hole it works really well. I hope this helps you out.
saw this post earlier and was going to comment but held back because I only have experience with a SB Assault. Figured WTH for what its worth to you... I have the same adjustability on the front of my skid and even though the rest of the suspension is 10 yr old technology I did notice that moving the skid to the upper hole it does not wheelie nearly as much and seemed like it had a lot more get up and go out of the hole in deep snow (probably because it got up on top of the snow better...) seems to soak up bumps better with the skid in the lower position though.
G
gman086
Well-known member
Good luck with that... the rails are more turned up on the Assaults so as to compensate for the steeper attack angle when you drop the front arm. And, as was mentioned, you'll get too much transfer for serious steep and deep riding. To each their own tho!
Have FUN!
G MAN
Have FUN!
G MAN
Do my best...
At the front suspension arm mount in the tunnel there should be a lower hole and an upper hole. Usually comes set in the lower hole i beleive.
Take a wrench and socket and simply loosen the bolts. Position in the top hole and re-tighten. You may want to dab a drop of blue loctite on the bolts even though they are sometimes a pain in the A#$ to get out in the first place. I'd rather fight with them in the shop then have them shake loose on the trail.
On my SB assault i pull the torsion springs before i do this, so im not fighting them to move the skid, but the Assault RMK's dont have torsion springs to the best of my knowledge.
At the front suspension arm mount in the tunnel there should be a lower hole and an upper hole. Usually comes set in the lower hole i beleive.
Take a wrench and socket and simply loosen the bolts. Position in the top hole and re-tighten. You may want to dab a drop of blue loctite on the bolts even though they are sometimes a pain in the A#$ to get out in the first place. I'd rather fight with them in the shop then have them shake loose on the trail.
On my SB assault i pull the torsion springs before i do this, so im not fighting them to move the skid, but the Assault RMK's dont have torsion springs to the best of my knowledge.
Thanks for the replies. I figured it would probably wheelie too much. As it is right now I want to tighten up my front skid shock because I can bottom it pretty easy and I'm only 155 without gear. But I don't want it to wheelie anymore than it does. I'll probably just stiffen the whole back end up or get some new Shocks!
R
rickRMK800
New member
Anybody have pics of these two holes so we all know which ones you are talking about?
I just moved my 12' Assault RMK to the upper Pro position. I have some advice to make this an easy easy job. Drill out the holes on each side before you remove the bolts. Then Remove the bolts. Here is the most important part, tip the sled over on it's side to position the arm to the new location to get your bolts started. I tried for an hour with a jack and straps and muscle to get the front arm to line up with the upper holes, not happening!! After getting really pi$$ed and going inside to calm down, I decided to try tipping it over and it took about 5 minutes and job was done!!
I hope this saves someone the ANGERY MELTDOWN that i experienced last night.
I hope this saves someone the ANGERY MELTDOWN that i experienced last night.
Some thoughts from a previous thread...
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The shape is different, RMK VS Assault 2012... pay particular attention to the nose of section of the rail and the turn-up there.
With the lower mounting position of the Assault front arm... the rails are tipped up in the front more to accommodate that change... the approach angle on an assault is steeper than an RMK.
Polzen.... YES.
WyoPRO is right on with his presentation... The dynamics of spring preload, position in the chassis and many other factors dictate how the sled will react.
I have had the rails next to each other... they are identical except for the front turned up section of the rail. I'll see if I can snap a photo of this with them next to each other as the show season fires up.
All of this is assuming that the wider front suspension and longer shocks of the assault puts the skis at the same height in relationship to the sled... Which may not be true. I don't have the answer to this one... Does anyone else out there have this info.... with first hand experience? (Pic below of what I'm talking about, not to scale NOR representing any thoughts of what the actual measurement is)
We may be shooting ourselves in the foot by assuming that this position is the same on the RMK and Assaults.
The Assault has a steeper approach angle of the track... which is why the rail tips are turned up more than the RMK. This approach angle directly affects how the sled will get up on top of the snow. You can see how much extra this is by looking at the drastic diff in the position of the rear idler/track-tension adjuster on the rear. (the Comp and powder tracks are molded on the same drum)
How compliant the front track shock is also has a huge effect on this. The RMK has a 150 lb spring on the front track shock with softer valving than the Assault front track shock with the 180 lb spring.
Here is my OPINION
Again... to assume that the Assault has the same ski bolt location in relation to the chassis may not be a good idea when making the comparison.
It is quite possible that the lower swing arm mounting in the Assault also takes into account a possible lower ski pivot bolt location in relation to it.
My gut (and nothing else to be honest here) tells me that swapping things around may change more than you are planning on.
Ski pressure is also affected by FTS preload and spring force.
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Just curious on a couple things with regard to this.
For the guys that changed the Assault to the "upper" mounting hole, did you end up with a lot more ski pressure? Once it was re-located, did anyone do any more changes to either the front or rear suspension?
Also, without having to check does anyone remember off hand what size drill bit to use. I know the spot is marked and basically sized but I thought if anyone remembered what size drill bit to use, I would just pick up a new one to avoid any issues.
Haven't rode my 12 Assault yet, so I'm really trying to decide whether to ride it in the "stock" position for the first trip out or change it right away. I know some guys like the "wheelie" effect and it adds a little fun factor but as mentioned above it does limit you a little as well.
Thoughts?????????????
For the guys that changed the Assault to the "upper" mounting hole, did you end up with a lot more ski pressure? Once it was re-located, did anyone do any more changes to either the front or rear suspension?
Also, without having to check does anyone remember off hand what size drill bit to use. I know the spot is marked and basically sized but I thought if anyone remembered what size drill bit to use, I would just pick up a new one to avoid any issues.
Haven't rode my 12 Assault yet, so I'm really trying to decide whether to ride it in the "stock" position for the first trip out or change it right away. I know some guys like the "wheelie" effect and it adds a little fun factor but as mentioned above it does limit you a little as well.
Thoughts?????????????
Good questions.
If you give an answer, let us know how you compared... was it on the same day/same snow or in different conditions. How are you comparing? What Tracks? What kind of snow?
For the drilll...I would drill a small pilot hole in the center and then use a " Unibit" to bring the hole up to the 10mm size... a normal twist drill will make an ugly hole.
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If you give an answer, let us know how you compared... was it on the same day/same snow or in different conditions. How are you comparing? What Tracks? What kind of snow?
For the drilll...I would drill a small pilot hole in the center and then use a " Unibit" to bring the hole up to the 10mm size... a normal twist drill will make an ugly hole.
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If I was you I would ride it in the stock position and make your call from there. When I moved my Assault to the upper hole it did have a little to much ski pressure for my likings, so i backed off my front skid shock two turns and clicked the rear shock down to help with the transfer. We did the same on our race sleds for RMSHA. Just my oppinon of course.
I put bout 150 miles on in the lower hole, aslo tried many different combos in the rear skid while in the stock hole. The above post is what i found to work the best for me. With those changes my Assault became a pretty wicked back country sled. Best stock sled I ever threw my leg over "to date", and I've been riding and racing over 20 years. My hat is off to polaris!.
Would it be worth my time to drop my Pro to the lower hole to get a bit more lift (I'm at 125lbs w/o gear) ? I played with my front and rear track shocks already, but wouldn't mind the opportunity for more lift, as long as I wouldn't lose or sacrifice too much of my powder abilities.
If I remember right the RMK is not suppose to be dropped down to the lower due to the the rails that are on the RMK (less angle then the Assault). Again, I might be incorrect on this but I thought I ran across that someone in a post.
I think you're right, but thought I'd throw it out there and ask incase.
