You can't use that as a guideline with extroverts. If it is too loose it will wrap around your drivers and you will stab it. Keep an eye on your track tension, especially with a single-ply track.
Anyone stabbed Rails thru the Power Claw?
- Thread starter Sneddonrider
- Start date
You can't use that as a guideline with extroverts. If it is too loose it will wrap around your drivers and you will stab it. Keep an eye on your track tension, especially with a single-ply track.
S
shaneo11
Member
I have the anti-stab kit from BDX on my 09 M8. Do you other guys that have the anti stab kit on feel a little more vibration on there sled, like possibly from those 4 little wheels on the anti stab kit rotating very fast on the track?? My sled feels like it is vibrating more now that I have the anti-stab kit on.
R
Rush44
Well-known member
They must have raised the prices. They used to be around $40 plus shipping (2 seasons ago).
Why would it be Arctic Cat's responsibility to implement factory modifications to an entire sled lineup in order to protect against an aftermarket modification? I don't see why this is Arctic Cat's fault.
What makes you think that a modification caused this? Stock sleds are doing it.
i also run the two in-board wheel kit from whal bros racing got it at performance engineering and it is under $50 and i also retained the stock rail caps. i don't see the need for the four wheel kit and its more $. i don't even run my track that loose and i check it every few rides just not a ri$k i want to take....
R
Rush44
Well-known member
Pre-Powder Claw these M series sleds did not stab until you added an aftermarket track like a Camoplast Challenger Extreme. Apparently the Powder Claw has changed things.
Does the Powder Claw come with different drivers than the stock Camoplast tracks did?
I'm not sure what the '07-08 sleds came with, but '09 and 10 models came with extrovert drivers. They drive not only by the drive lugs on the track but protrude through the windows of the track as well.
I think I have noticed some slight noises since I installed the BDX anti stab (2010 M8 LE). I'm running my track a few turns looser than stock and I've put about 100 miles riding hard in the mountains with no problems at all. Only thing I noticed is that I had to make 100% positive my track alignment was perfect because the nubs on the inside of the track will rub on them when you are running, it is possible that if your alignment is not perfect you could be rubbing on them.
Check the wheels (if its BDX they are white so its easy to see) if they are rubbing against the tracks drive lugs. They will be stained black where they are rubbing if so.
Thats the only thing I could imagine it being.
Really simple fix for $47.95 at Hi-Performance Engineering. Use it on mine. Just drill out the bolts that hold the rail tips on and put it between them way up front. Part number 900-183 for the Arctic Cat.
http://www.hiperf.com/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?SS=900-183&ACTION=Go!&PR=-1&TB=A&SHOP=
Aaron
yep thats the one i use also. if you drill out the outside hole on the rail caps to 3/8in and then open up the inside holes enough for the shaft (there isn't enough material there will be small gap) you can keep the rail caps also.
T
tranquillicer
Well-known member
Caps
Make sure you keep the rail caps in place. These anti-stab kits are not with out faults and when they go south on you the rail tips are the only thing between your track window and about $900 worth of repairs(assuming you don't bugger up your rails when you stab track). Be sure to keep tabs on the bearings and use locktite when you install. I stabbed 2 CE tracks in 3 mths last year WITH an anti-stab kit on. 1st time was my fault cause I didn't use lock-tite and one of the nuts worked it's way off, 2nd time the axle on AS kit broke(possibly from the stress of the 1st screw-up) and the results were exactly as you would expect. Between these 2 situations the brgs were replaced because the mfg used garbage brgs and they lasted about 300mi. I have put the last 1,000mi on with just the stock tips on the rails and no issues at all.
Make sure you keep the rail caps in place. These anti-stab kits are not with out faults and when they go south on you the rail tips are the only thing between your track window and about $900 worth of repairs(assuming you don't bugger up your rails when you stab track). Be sure to keep tabs on the bearings and use locktite when you install. I stabbed 2 CE tracks in 3 mths last year WITH an anti-stab kit on. 1st time was my fault cause I didn't use lock-tite and one of the nuts worked it's way off, 2nd time the axle on AS kit broke(possibly from the stress of the 1st screw-up) and the results were exactly as you would expect. Between these 2 situations the brgs were replaced because the mfg used garbage brgs and they lasted about 300mi. I have put the last 1,000mi on with just the stock tips on the rails and no issues at all.
That's what it says........put it between them. I would not pull the rail tips.
Aaron
M
mynewuseddoo
Well-known member
I just stabbed my powerclaw 162 last week on my M8!! Its bs, I only have a couple hundred KM on the sled. I barely got off of the main trail at Turtle mountain and started up this mild hill, maybe 50 meters and bam, no more go!! Luckly I wasnt moving fast so I didnt get tossed but it sure did a number on my track. I bought an extreme to replace it because it was readily available but after using it I personaly dont like it. If anybody wants to trade their Powerclaw 162 for a Camo extreme 162 let me know. I have maybe 50 KM on the track and it is like brand new. I will trade for a Powerclaw with less than 500 km. This might sound weird but the Extreme hooks up more that I like for my style of riding. If anybody is interested just let me know.
Also my rear idler wheels were bent out of shape and my rear axle was bent also from this. I am wondering if this happened first and then the track loosened off to the point where the track could stab its self on the rail? If this is the case and the rear idler wheels cant handle a main trail then there is an issue.
Also my rear idler wheels were bent out of shape and my rear axle was bent also from this. I am wondering if this happened first and then the track loosened off to the point where the track could stab its self on the rail? If this is the case and the rear idler wheels cant handle a main trail then there is an issue.
Last edited:
If you are talking about the mid mounted bogie wheels that are in between the rails they commonly bend peoples rails when they get hit hard. Look at the older M series mid bogie wheels, they have a cross support between, but the new ones don't because the shock has to travel between there.
Take those dumb bogie wheels off and protect your rails with an anti stab!
Take those dumb bogie wheels off and protect your rails with an anti stab!
N
notboosted
New member
Stabbed my track on 09 m8, lost the track, both rails and 1 driver. Now have anti-stab kit and run the track tighter. I learned that I could fly but the landing sure sucked.
Are u for serious? Maybe you should go buy an XP. B.R.P. belts, rings and pistons.
anti stab kit is cheap and everyone should have one.
Currently installing my BDX anti stab kit 90 bucks. 4 wheels and new rail tips.
T
tranquillicer
Well-known member
Normal!!!
Tracks stretch just like every other belt or chain in the drive system. If they are not self tightening then you need to tighten them yourself. After the initial adjustment they should be good till they are worn out.
You should expect a rail to stab a track when track is too loose. You should not expect your sled to eat belts, have tons of clutching problems and go through crankshafts like sh%t through a goose. I'll take the M and fix the stab issue over the XP with all it's issues any day.
Tracks stretch just like every other belt or chain in the drive system. If they are not self tightening then you need to tighten them yourself. After the initial adjustment they should be good till they are worn out.
