Just curious if anyone on here has ran a boondocker nitrous kit on their dragon 700/800. Or even a 600 iq. How well did it work and was it hard to dial in? Also i see on the boondocker site in the instructions that they want the bottle mounted behind the seat. Is that where guys have been mounting it? Is there any way to mount it somewhere under the hood? Any help is appreciated.
Anyone running Boondocker nitrous on their dragon?
- Thread starter 1FASTXC
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I havent used the boondockers kit on a Dragon yet. My personal sled (07 Dragon) will be sporting a wet kit this year. Boondockers does have an Iq mount that is under the hood.
The problem is it was designed for an rmk (as far as I can tell anyway). It mounts to the recoil side bulk head brace above the chain case via the two stock mounting bolts.
In order to use it on a 121 you have to space it out about 1 1/2" out.
It isnt the best by any means as my bottle will actually touch the pipe after a couple of ruff moguls. I will probably end up revamping the mount some how when I get mine back together. But as far as there kits go I have used the boondocker efi kits on Arctic cats without a problem. So Im sure it would work just fine on a Dragon once you have it installed and tuned.
Mark
The problem is it was designed for an rmk (as far as I can tell anyway). It mounts to the recoil side bulk head brace above the chain case via the two stock mounting bolts.
In order to use it on a 121 you have to space it out about 1 1/2" out.
It isnt the best by any means as my bottle will actually touch the pipe after a couple of ruff moguls. I will probably end up revamping the mount some how when I get mine back together. But as far as there kits go I have used the boondocker efi kits on Arctic cats without a problem. So Im sure it would work just fine on a Dragon once you have it installed and tuned.
Mark
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That was my main thing i was wondering about was bottle mounting under the hood. I can't see the bottle temp being very high with it mounted behind the seat, and i didn't see anything about a bottle heater. Thanks for the info.
A friend of mine has boondocker nitrous on his dragon 8. It worked flawlessly all season with the bottle mounted under the seat. Tri-City Performance installed the kit. The boondocker control box is also part of his kit.
Scott Is gary the one always on the button? lol
He was on the button alot, no motor problems though. I've heard the regulated nitrous does not need as consistent bottle pressure as non-regulated and this why the underseat location works satisfactory.
Thinking about nitrous also on my dragon would like 25 to 35 more hp out of it.Alot of people say it is hard on your motor.What is the life expectice ? I ride with 800 and 1000 must of the time and do all right except for hill climping.I am in the just under 300 lbs class. Other than Jenny Craig any suggestion?
other then Jenny Craig...lol....well you wouldn;t need to worry about eating Jenny Craig if you put Mary Kay on your face...
Big shots of nitrous are hard on cranks and steel connecting rods...but a 25to 35 hp shot I think would be fine..just make sure you dont let it lean up and you have good octane fuel...On our race motors we ran billet aluminum rods and forged steel cranks (big block chevy v-8's) but we were running twin 500 hp profogger kits running right on the ragged edge..In a 200 ft. mudpit we would burn 7 pds from each bottle...
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EricW
Well-known member
Yep
Beem running the BD Synergy N2O for 2 years now on an 07 D7. Mounting under the hood has not been an issue. There was a recall on the early bottles if you find a used kit. There is a small learning curve to the box, but I just printed, shrunk, and laminated the setting instructions and cheated off some of the other BD Turbo guys for how to program. No issues so far and happy as hell. I did fab my own button mount, not a lot of realestate for it on the IQ bar/grip. I'd do it again (with the turbo this time....lol) EW
Tried the button safety wired through the dimmer, didn't like it, dimmer kept popping off.
Regulator knob on the right
I dont know how well this will show, button is safety wired to aluminum angle just inside the brake lock. Remember with the BD you can get juice auotmatic at any RPM or throttle position as well. You'll want some sort of O2 sensor to keep an eye on the mix.
Beem running the BD Synergy N2O for 2 years now on an 07 D7. Mounting under the hood has not been an issue. There was a recall on the early bottles if you find a used kit. There is a small learning curve to the box, but I just printed, shrunk, and laminated the setting instructions and cheated off some of the other BD Turbo guys for how to program. No issues so far and happy as hell. I did fab my own button mount, not a lot of realestate for it on the IQ bar/grip. I'd do it again (with the turbo this time....lol) EW
Tried the button safety wired through the dimmer, didn't like it, dimmer kept popping off.
Regulator knob on the right
I dont know how well this will show, button is safety wired to aluminum angle just inside the brake lock. Remember with the BD you can get juice auotmatic at any RPM or throttle position as well. You'll want some sort of O2 sensor to keep an eye on the mix.
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SNOW JW
Well-known member
FASTXC
You can mount it behind the seat if you run one of there fixed or adjustable regulators. I like the fixed one not very many times you need to crank the nitrous up also if you do keep in mind how much octane you are running. But when I was spraying anything in the 20-40hp seemed perfect pull the rope and go every weekend run the same clutching and just have fun with it. I ran higher HP hits with a WET system and it was useless as the extra HP was out of my clutching specs so to get the full effect I would have had to clutched just for nitrous and that is no fun plus the wet system was a PITA sometimes but it did put out some high numbers so I will give it that.
You can mount it behind the seat if you run one of there fixed or adjustable regulators. I like the fixed one not very many times you need to crank the nitrous up also if you do keep in mind how much octane you are running. But when I was spraying anything in the 20-40hp seemed perfect pull the rope and go every weekend run the same clutching and just have fun with it. I ran higher HP hits with a WET system and it was useless as the extra HP was out of my clutching specs so to get the full effect I would have had to clutched just for nitrous and that is no fun plus the wet system was a PITA sometimes but it did put out some high numbers so I will give it that.
How big of nozzles are you using?What elese have you done clutching, slp air horn etc.Can you hide the box and the knob?I went to the bd wep site did'nt find alot of info. Is this a wet or dry system? How long can a bottle last and I know it depends on how you ride but are we talking a ride or three or four rides. The reason I ask is we live a couple of hours away from any major city.
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SNOW JW
Well-known member
Beam this might help you out.
http://www.boondockers.com/instructions/dragon700nitrous.pdf
To answer your questions.
1.Nothing realy needs to be done as far as clutching if you run or find a setup that works better for you great more air is always a good thing
2.Yes you can hide it just depends on how custom you want it to look and time you spend looking for the perfect mounting spot. Like anything else the more time you put into it the cleaner it will look.
3. Dry system the EFI box tells the injectors to up the duty cycle (more fuel) when you push the happy button. Wet systems put out more HP but the drawbacks are a pluming mess with lines and hoses plus messing with jets and such instead of just clicking a button on the box to give you more fuel. If your into all out Drag Racing and want 60+ hp then go with a wet system.
4. Bottle lasted me all day most days. For a 35hp hit figure 1lb of nitrous per Min of use.
so on a 3lb bottle. It does not sound like much but if you use it on the hills and in the chutes or to give you that extra little push it works great.
If you love and have to have HP all day then the turbo is the only way to go.
http://www.boondockers.com/instructions/dragon700nitrous.pdf
To answer your questions.
1.Nothing realy needs to be done as far as clutching if you run or find a setup that works better for you great more air is always a good thing
2.Yes you can hide it just depends on how custom you want it to look and time you spend looking for the perfect mounting spot. Like anything else the more time you put into it the cleaner it will look.
3. Dry system the EFI box tells the injectors to up the duty cycle (more fuel) when you push the happy button. Wet systems put out more HP but the drawbacks are a pluming mess with lines and hoses plus messing with jets and such instead of just clicking a button on the box to give you more fuel. If your into all out Drag Racing and want 60+ hp then go with a wet system.
4. Bottle lasted me all day most days. For a 35hp hit figure 1lb of nitrous per Min of use.
so on a 3lb bottle. It does not sound like much but if you use it on the hills and in the chutes or to give you that extra little push it works great.
If you love and have to have HP all day then the turbo is the only way to go.
Snow JW thanks for the info. Is there a system that does not require a button and works with the throttle. So I take it we have to use a heater on the bottle to keep it at 70 to 90 deg?The wet system must go into the fuel line or into the carb body? How about vforce reeds do I need them or is stock alright?What is the cost of filling a 3lbs bottle?I see you can locate the bottle above the chain case I like that better it would other wise hinder my Jim beam stash compartment.
Hey M8 I never tried Mary Kay but I have had her sister Mary Jane.
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SNOW JW
Well-known member
Yes on the EFI sleds you can chose to use the button or have come on when at WOT
No the BD system has a PSI transducer that tells the EFI how much fuel to put in at a given PSI rating if you are worried about it or want to run the bottle outside just run there fixed regulator then there will be no worries
Yes a wet system has a to T into the fuel line then the nitrous and fuel mix in a nozzle. To tune in you have to use brass jets like .012fuel and .030 nitrous and so on it does work but you also have to watch bottle temp I never had a problem as my 900RMK was always plenty warm but it's just nice not having to worry about it with the new regulators on the BD stuff.
Stock reeds and V-force work just fine the nitrous is just a bolt on performance add on no need for anything fancy if you don't want.
Hope this helps
With the 35hp shot, does it really feel like its adding that much power when your on the button. I have never taken a sled for a ride that had nos so i'm just wondering if it pulls hard. I would think with that small of a shot it would be reliable all day, everyday? I would be putting it on a 700 RMK.
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SNOW JW
Well-known member
Midge it depends on what kind of snow you have. I found that when going for a highmark on a long pull to hold off on the nitrous till I was about 3/4 of the way up so I would not be waisting nitrous hit the button and just as I passed the mark I was at top track speed.
If you have somewhat of a base under the powder it helps a ton in those super deep days you will not notice it as much as say 2-3ft with a base under ya. So the more you can load the motor the more you will feel it pull on the bars. It's not a turbo but you will feel it. All the guys I have talked to running it have said 10-40hp is pull the rope and go anything more and I think your pushing your luck on a long pull unless you are running some good octane.
If you have somewhat of a base under the powder it helps a ton in those super deep days you will not notice it as much as say 2-3ft with a base under ya. So the more you can load the motor the more you will feel it pull on the bars. It's not a turbo but you will feel it. All the guys I have talked to running it have said 10-40hp is pull the rope and go anything more and I think your pushing your luck on a long pull unless you are running some good octane.
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