Anyone have tested the Team TIED on their machine yet ?

[briand]

No i don't think i will pull the 73-65 in the mountains but when i purchased my team tied i told them what i was running with the TS 98 which was a 66-44.46 with the Black purple 160-240 team spring with 66 grams Polaris weights or the 68 grams MTX weights with 3 grams added in the mid hole for 6000 to 8000 ft and it pulled this flawless. Great acceleration and great back shift. They crossed it over to a 75-65.46 & 75-63.46 helix. Now when i purchased it they did not have the 75-65.46 but had a 73-65.46 & 73-63.46 so i bought it to try.

Now my sled is a 03 800 vertical edge with
SLP single pipe,
Thing can,
SLP big air horn kit with 2 flo rites in the dash,
Engine rpm run best at 7950-8000.
162" X 2.5"X 15" 3" pitch track 8 tooth avid 3" drivers with drop and roll.
19-43 gearing.
Rails are flatten no tip up at the rear and this made a big difference too.

I found with this big track and flatten rails you could pull 4 more degrees with no trouble. A lot more track flat on the ground at all times. Its similar to riding in soft snow and on harder snow pack I can usually pull a little more weight or helix when it is harder pack snow then in soft snow.

I fairly confident i can pull the 73-63.46 up high but i guess in time we will see.

 

[clutch man]

No i don't think i will pull the 73-65 in the mountains but when i purchased my team tied i told them what i was running with the TS 98 which was a 66-44.46 with the Black purple 160-240 team spring with 66 grams Polaris weights or the 68 grams MTX weights with 3 grams added in the mid hole for 6000 to 8000 ft and it pulled this flawless. Great acceleration and great back shift. They crossed it over to a 75-65.46 & 75-63.46 helix. Now when i purchased it they did not have the 75-65.46 but had a 73-65.46 & 73-63.46 so i bought it to try.

Now my sled is a 03 800 vertical edge with
SLP single pipe,
Thing can,
SLP big air horn kit with 2 Flo rites in the dash,
Engine rpm run best at 7950-8000.
162" X 2.5"X 15" 3" pitch track 8 tooth avid 3" drivers with drop and roll.
19-43 gearing.
Rails are flatten no tip up at the rear and this made a big difference too.

I found with this big track and flatten rails you could pull 4 more degrees with no trouble. A lot more track flat on the ground at all times. Its similar to riding in soft snow and on harder snow pack I can usually pull a little more weight or helix when it is harder pack snow then in soft snow.

I fairly confident i can pull the 73-63.46 up high but i guess in time we will see.

First of all you our at 6 degrees over what i recommend that would make it a 46 on top ( the 57 is the same as the 40 in the tss4 or the 98. also I have been setting up clutches on Polaris sleds for over 17 years. I have never found a Polaris that likes the steep angles on top, Unless it is turbo ed.
It is sad to see that they still recommend a 44 or a 42 final on top for the 98 or tss4 in a mt sled. But it has been good for me i have changed out over 35 of there setups and had so many of the helix's that i sold them for scrap.
I have done countless hours of testing the tss4 and now the tied and what i gave you will work. Remember the driven only coverts the torque from the drive clutch, if your drive clutch worked before then make no change to it set the driven to match it. hope this helps and good luck.

 

[briand]

First of all you our at 6 degrees over what i recommend that would make it a 46 on top ( the 57 is the same as the 40 in the tss4 or the 98. also I have been setting up clutches on Polaris sleds for over 17 years. I have never found a Polaris that likes the steep angles on top, Unless it is turbo ed.
It is sad to see that they still recommend a 44 or a 42 final on top for the 98 or tss4 in a mt sled. But it has been good for me i have changed out over 35 of there setups and had so many of the helix's that i sold them for scrap.
I have done countless hours of testing the tss4 and now the tied and what i gave you will work. Remember the driven only coverts the torque from the drive clutch, if your drive clutch worked before then make no change to it set the driven to match it. hope this helps and good luck.

Well i can't comment on how my setup will work on other sleds and i am not recommending it, just providing what my results are. I have been testing the team 98 now for 10 years and for my sled the way it is setup the 66-44.46 with .70 spacers in between the cup and sheave with the black purple 160-240, worked very well for me. Now i can't go over 7000 ft due to health reason but up to 7000 ft this setup has worked very well for me. higher then that I can't comment .
This only pertains to my sled. I have tried the 38, 40, 42, 44, 46,48, finish angles on my sled in the mountains with the red black 140-240 spring my secondary is floating on the shaft so it is align and also various combination of primary weights. Motor mounts were all good. The 38 and the 40 for me just buildup way too much heat in the secondary with the 40 not as bad. back shift was excellent but up shift was very slow and held back track speed. The 42 and 44 had the least amount of heat and had the best pull with the 44 being the best and still very good back shift and was higher on the hill then the 38 and 40. There is the odd time where the 44 doesn't work as well as the 42 but not that often.The 46 work in some conditions but heat started to build up again. 1 or 2 runs up were OK but anything after that would just fall on its face. the 48 just did not cut it at all.
Now that was my results, why it works for me and not others i don't know but for me it just flat out works. When i said 4 degrees more helix i was comparing it to the 40 degree helix and not the tied 57.

Now getting back to the tied i can't comment on the 65 or the 63 final rate in the mountains. I just don't know but you got me to think about it and i will maybe see if i can get a hold of a 57, 59 final angle helix a just to compare and see. One thing i noticed with the 65 helix down here (2500ft ) in a drag race is that once you hit 65 to 70 the up shifts slows down alot more then the ts 98 did. why i don't know but by adding more tip weight to the MTX weight and a lower end rate on the primary spring it seem to greatly speed up the up shift in the top end. Clutch heat remained the same cold to just luke warm, so its not belt slippage so for some reason it just holds back a little more then the 98 at the top end.

Thanks for your input clutch man

 

[gopher-it!]

team

i have also found the same over a few years of clutching the tss-98. the 44 final angle has about the best shift for the powder. a 42 back shifts great but just wont up shift. proven this many times with all different sleds.

 

[briand]

Had some spare time this afternoon after work. so i played around some more with the tied clutch.

Today this is what i tried out

Primary

120-280 epi spring
68 gram MTX weights with 5 grams in the tip and 2 grams in the mid hole.

Secondary

73-63.46 not the 65 finish rate. 2 derlin washers .
160-240 black purple spring.

Well i was quite surprised that this setup work as good as it did.
Pulled harder on the bottom and mid range but lost a little on the top end but overall it was quicker.

Definitely had a much more responsive back-shift and surprisingly better up-shift to till about 3/4 shift out then maybe a little Less the the 65 finish angle. What i found amazing was that now both clutches are actually cool.
I always had a little more heat in the primary then the secondary with the 65 finish rate but now there both cool.

Still gonna try to add a little tip weight to see if i can get it to preform better on the top end or a little less primary end rate spring.

All for now.


I like this setup better then the 65 finish rate

 

[Norway]

Great thread!!!

This thread is amazing, just what I want snowest-forums to be all about.

Not running a TEAM now but a year from now a lot of people will be and the will rely on YOUR findings, most without knowing who did the legwork..

So a big thanks for your spending, both money and time!

Rune,
Norway

 

[briand]

Thanks Rune I really appreciate it .

 

[WingNutRacing]

huh

That right there is some clutching leg work for ya!!!!!




I say to you,,,,,, Good show!!!!!!!!

 

[briand]

Thanks guys I had most of the springs to play with so not really expensive to try diffrent combo's here. Still it's a lot of fun doing it.

 

[briand]

Well have not been able to do much testing here for 3 days now due to fog. Just can't see well enough. Will let you know .

Next setup i am going to try is


primary

MTX weights 68 grams with 8 grams added in the tip
120-280 EPI white spring

Secondary

73-63.46 helix with the same derlin washer setup as before
160- 240 black purple spring.

I'll let you know how this works out hopefully tomorrow night.

 

[briand]

Tried the setup below last night here fog finally lifted.

Primary

120-280 epi spring
68 gram MTX weights with 8 grams in the tip and 0 grams in the mid hole.

Secondary

73-63.46 2 derlin washers
160-240 black purple spring.

8 grams was to much too pull and ended up with 6 grams in the tip.

Pulled about the same in mid range as last setup, in previous post, with a bit more pull in the top end. (last set up was 5 grams in the tip with 2 grams in the mid)

Overall i liked this setup the best. still very good back-shift and very good up-shift.

Right now I don't have any other combo's to try out, so for now i am finished testing.

I have a 75-63.46 75-61.46 helix coming but we might loose all our snow before it arrives. ( 3 weeks to come in)
Its being fun though.

 

[clutch man]

Well i can't comment on how my setup will work on other sleds and i am not recommending it, just providing what my results are. I have been testing the team 98 now for 10 years and for my sled the way it is setup the 66-44.46 with .70 spacers in between the cup and sheave with the black purple 160-240, worked very well for me. Now i can't go over 7000 ft due to health reason but up to 7000 ft this setup has worked very well for me. higher then that I can't comment .
This only pertains to my sled. I have tried the 38, 40, 42, 44, 46,48, finish angles on my sled in the mountains with the red black 140-240 spring my secondary is floating on the shaft so it is align and also various combination of primary weights. Motor mounts were all good. The 38 and the 40 for me just buildup way too much heat in the secondary with the 40 not as bad. back shift was excellent but up shift was very slow and held back track speed. The 42 and 44 had the least amount of heat and had the best pull with the 44 being the best and still very good back shift and was higher on the hill then the 38 and 40. There is the odd time where the 44 doesn't work as well as the 42 but not that often.The 46 work in some conditions but heat started to build up again. 1 or 2 runs up were OK but anything after that would just fall on its face. the 48 just did not cut it at all.
Now that was my results, why it works for me and not others i don't know but for me it just flat out works. When i said 4 degrees more helix i was comparing it to the 40 degree helix and not the tied 57.

Now getting back to the tied i can't comment on the 65 or the 63 final rate in the mountains. I just don't know but you got me to think about it and i will maybe see if i can get a hold of a 57, 59 final angle helix a just to compare and see. One thing i noticed with the 65 helix down here (2500ft ) in a drag race is that once you hit 65 to 70 the up shifts slows down alot more then the ts 98 did. why i don't know but by adding more tip weight to the MTX weight and a lower end rate on the primary spring it seem to greatly speed up the up shift in the top end. Clutch heat remained the same cold to just luke warm, so its not belt slippage so for some reason it just holds back a little more then the 98 at the top end.

Thanks for your input clutch man

I run my sled at 5000 ft plus elevation, with the 64-40-46 and a black/red in the driven. i have a top speed of 96 with a 159 track and my belt life is over 1000 miles, plus i like to hill climb and make long hard pulls. I sill have over 1000 mile belt life and it pulls good every time.

Now with the tied so far the same, just not very many miles on to see if belt life is the same, plus it pulls harder.

Somthing to remember the heaver the spring in the driven will make the higher angle helix react the same as a lower angle helix. Alos when you add the spacer it is about the same as adding 20lb to the spring and that is for every spacer you add so 2 is like 40lb more.
just more to think about when tuning youe clutch.

 

[briand]

After the few weeks of trying to find the best combo for the team tied i ended up as follows

Primary,

68 gram MTX weights with eight grams added in the tip
blue white Polaris primary spring 120-310
The 120 -310 seems to provide the same speed and up-shift as the 120-280 i was using with just a bit better back shift.


What i decided to do was a comparison between the TS-98 and the tied. I took the TS-98 all apart and cleaned it right up so it would be in top running shape. I then had 2 tracks side by side to drag on with markers at 330 ft and 660 ft.

First with the TS-98 with my best setup ,i did 5 runs and here is what i ended up with speeds at 330 ft and 660 ft.

TS 98 setup
66-46.46 helix with 2 derlin washers
Black purple spring

primary setup
red 140-300 epi spring
MTX 68 gram weights 4 gram mid hole 4 grams in the tip

1st run 68 mph at 330 78 mph at 660
2cd run 66 mph at 330 77 mph at 660
3rd run 67 mph at 330 78 mph at 660
4th run 68 mph at 330 78 mph at 660
5th run 65 mph at 330 76 mph at 660

Average 66.8 MPH at 330 ft and 77.4 mph at 660 ft

Now 330 ft speed depend on hook up and some times spinning out was a problem.

Now the tied with my best setup as below,

Secondary Tied

73-63.46 helix with 2 derlin washers
black purple spring 160-240.

Primary,

68 gram MTX weights with eight grams added in the tip
blue white Polaris primary spring 120-310

1st run 72 mph at 330 82 mph at 660
2cd run 70 mph at 330 80 mph at 660
3rd run 71 mph at 330 81 mph at 660
4th run 65 mph at 330 78 mph at 660
5th run 68 mph at 330 79 mph at 660.

Average 69.2 mph at 330 ft and 80 mph at 660 ft.

Now run 4 & 5 had poor hook up with no. 4 spinning 75 ft or so before hooking up.

Differences between the two.
The tied clutch breaks loose a lot easier then the ts 98 did out of the hole.
Tied has a much more responsive grab when you hit the throttle at take off compared to the TS 98. Backshift is definitely quicker with the tied.

Even though there is a difference between the two clutches i honestly felt that the tied was preforming much better then the results indicated but results don't lie.

Hopefully some of you can fine some setups that work better then mine did and if you do please post them. its sure been fun guys. later

 

[Reeb]

Good info! Anyone run the Tied on a Rev based 800 yet? I have a very strong running 800 right now but always like to try new things. I'm running a stock Secondary as so far, no REV with or without a Team(non tied) can hold a candle(similar mods of course) so I've been hesitant to try a Team but like the Paragon, I think Team is onto the new wave of Driven clutches....

 

[Reeb]

Any new information or people willing to share their experiences?

 

[briand]

Thought I'd bring back this old post. I have been away from sledding and snowest for 2 years and getting back into it. Just wondering what setups you all tried and whats working for you? Gona do some more testing here in a few days to see if I can get better results. Have a 73-61.46 that i going to test with a lighter spring setup in the secondary.

 

[slowdog]

hi i have a 07-700-155
primary almond 165-327
secondary 140-220 black-green
77-57-46- 77-59-46
10-64 set for 3,000-6,000 pulls 8050-8300 so far very good set up.