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anyone have pics of gen II triple pipes?

F

flying pig

Well-known member
particularly for bigger triples, 1200, 1500,1515,1720. Need ideas for re fitting my pipes in there, this don't cut it....
mysledinshop.jpg

sledinshopnohood.jpg
 
they cleared that mesh hood like that?
I'm thinking of trying to fit mine so that the mag pipe crosses under the pto and center pipe, and crosses wherever nessessary(across the head between center and mag or whatever). We're gonna dyno test some shorter pipe configurations too, my motor guy figures it should build more power without a loss in torque. biggest thing is I don't want to burn that mesh!, and these pipes aren't performing how we feel they should, I may have pushed my fitter too hard and gotten a crappy rushed result. wasn't his fault at all, I only had one day off. The head pipes aren't the same length, and the one pipe has a very sharp turn in the mid section that I feel is suspect. Anybody have any pics of psi triples in gen 2's? I thik their pipes are layed out how I want and should be near the same volume as these.
 
I know the head pipe length is critical. Why dont you run a high rise lexan hood to clear the pipes better?
 
couple of issues with the lexan. they're brittle, and I'm brutal. not a good combo. poor evacuation of under hood heat as well. Plus BRtech's hood will not clear these pipes in their current state. I had to remove both vents on the right hand side and the lower one on the left. Should done the non ves motor I guess.
edit: there's like 3/4 of an inch difference in head pipe length between the three pipes as well, would this cause my motor to lose like 30hp? lol. 204/136@8100rpm with these pipes. Not trying to re-invent the wheel here but my motor guy figures there's some more in there if we spool it up like 300-400rpm. Its not ported either, but I don't need more power yet, just want to make it work as good as I can with the current set-up, porting and better fuel are pricey too.
 
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That could be your issue. If your trying to get more RPM shorten your pipes to the same length and that should do it. Im no pipe expert just talking from my own experience.
 
Pipes

Without the hood you can't see it but I did not have to notch my hard hood like you did so my mag pipe sits lower than yours. I actually have about 1/2 inch clearance on my hard hood. The bracket on top of the shock tower is right down on the belly pan which lets things settle nicely. I used the stock silencer cradle and that also lowered them down. The bend of the center and mag pipes are almost right on the front bumper brace. Look at all of those spots on yours to see if you can pick up some clearance while you are reworking the header length.

One more thing the SLP PTO pipe has a dent in it from the factory that cups around the Mag valve housing. They have you cover it with foil tape to protect it.
 
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Without the hood you can't see it but I did not have to notch my hard hood like you did so my mag pipe sits lower than yours. I actually have about 1/2 inch clearance on my hard hood. The bracket on top of the shock tower is right down on the belly pan which lets things settle nicely. I used the stock silencer cradle and that also lowered them down. The bend of the center and mag pipes are almost right on the front bumper brace. Look at all of those spots on yours to see if you can pick up some clearance while you are reworking the header length.

One more thing the SLP PTO pipe has a dent in it from the factory that cups around the Mag valve housing. They have you cover it with foil tape to protect it.

Yeah we had to dent my pto pipe as well to get it to clear on the mag valve. we tride not to cut the center section too much, I think maybe we just need a day at the dyno to try some things and see where we're at. If we wind up shorter that should help lots, an friend of mine says he once took an inch or two off the head pipes and a few outa the center section and spooled it up considerably and he gained a ton of juice that way, not saying it will work, but the set up I was given was for a ported engine and maybe they do need to be adjusted accordingly. Shorter pipes should fit easier too hopefully.
 
I brough my PTO pipe out and it has a few turns around the shock tower, then turns back to the left side even more to "pull" the expansion chamber more toward the front in order to get everything to clear, this was on my prox with a 2+" taller hood.

On the last gen2 1050WC we did the pipes on fit perfect under the stock hood. Theres more room up front in the bellypan/nose of the sled to pack or lay the pipes into, the PTO pipe ends up gettting pushed over more to the left with the method used on my prox, the pto pipe runs more left to right, but it can easily be packed in low enough to clear.
 
my prox pipes arent that much diffrent than your gen2 but I have a 2"+ taller hood so It clears fine.

We have built them in the gen2's and you can tuck alot more pipe up in the front to help pull the Ex chambers lower and more forward getting the outlet cone to be more of where your problem area is and by running it more left to right. Its a few more cuts and bends but it can fit under a stock hood.

Take off the wennie coocker and take a pic right on top of the pipes. Notice how mine has a bend and a twist around the shock tower, its just a bit more extreme on the gen2.

I have 7 cuts in the mag, 5 in the center and 11 or 13 in the PTO pipe. I tried not to cut into the expansion chambers since each cut is that much more volume. About 1" diffrence between any of the pipes overall length. Built them by doing the piecut and turn method.

VPX 1200 pipes 001.jpg
 
crap I shoulda left it with him for a week or so. those are nice! looks like that may be my answer right there...edge again though too, and the center section looks way shorter too, no valves either. Man I'm picky eh? Thanks for the help guys, we'll get er yet.
 
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another way Ive seen em in the gen2 is the mag and center pipes are moved more toward the clutchesand the PTO pipe actually lays in the entire nose cone and comes out along the right side bellypan and over the shock tower. There was a pic of a WC gen2 with chrome CS pipes like this on the old DIY WC forum.
 
movie

another way Ive seen em in the gen2 is the mag and center pipes are moved more toward the clutchesand the PTO pipe actually lays in the entire nose cone and comes out along the right side bellypan and over the shock tower. There was a pic of a WC gen2 with chrome CS pipes like this on the old DIY WC forum.

I've kept this on my desktop, my coffebrake entertainment :D
Think it has the pipes you're talking about.

http://www.snowest.com/gallery/video/1431.mpg
 
how much clearance will I need exactly to not turn a mesh hood into goo? Like 2" or so?
that one looks like another possibility Norway! If that's a 1500, aren't they watercraft based too? lol
 
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I think I may be ok with just a few adjustments, lynns pto pipe sat up way high in there eh? I forgot he had one once upon a time...looks like he put a lift under that hood too eh? Sure we can get these pipes to fit, I'll know for sure in a few days when the hood gets here. They wouldn't stick out of the stock hood if it had no vents, maybe they'll be ok under the mesh hood. If not I maybe could raise the hood using an old piece of inner bellypan trim, 1/2"-1" shouldn't be too noticeable. Other than that i think from looking at my pics the mag pipe should be fine, center section of cent pipe can go towards the back of the sled some and be brought towards the r hand side of the sled up front, that'll give me some room to bring the pto pipe a bit down and ahead. I should be able to turn that cone at a flatter angle then and lower that center section down a bit. should make it fit I hope.

hey mattymac did you get my pm?
 
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thats a PSI motor.

Yeah, knew those purple heads to, just wanted to show the pipes the way they lay over like that.

And besides, even if it IS a PSI motor, that thing rocks! Part of my goal, to be able to lift the front like that on a pull with a N/A 2-stroke! :D

RS
 
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