Anyone Change out There Pro Handle Bars!

[endeavorslc]

I felt last season that the overall width of the handle bars were to wide and I wish they were a little taller. Anybody do something different for bars?

 

[niles]

Take a sledge hammer and wack it damn hard in the middle bending the bars in and up. Solves both your problems.
sorry had to

 

[colorado_matt]

I will be putting on the FLY racing aero taper carbon wrapped 'mini' bar. Narrower than stock and about 3 inches shorter.

 

[Super Dave3]

After riding with Chris Burandt last year he hooked me up with the RSI bars. They are a bit narrower as well as a couple inches shorter. IMO it was big improvement over the Protapers.

 

[Dootimes2]

Is there enough room on the end to cut 1/2" off the bars without hitting the hand warmers.

 

[AdrenalineAddict]

I changed my bars to RSI also, the set I purchased is a couple inches shorter and a few inches narrower after trimming the ends a bit. It sounds as though it's a pretty popular mod to the sled. I rode a few Pros last year and liked them enough that I decided to buy one. The only thing I could find wrong with the sled were the Pro-Tapers, to wide and to high.

 

[WYsteph]

Went with RSI on mine. Need to get some riding to see how I like them.

 

[skibreeze]

I'm 5'8" and went with the RSI bars also.

 

[colorado_matt]

I'm 6' and the stock bars feel very awkward. Anyone looking for a good deal on a set of pro taper bars????

 

[AdrenalineAddict]

I'm 6'1" with arms like Sasquatch, the stock bars are 3" or 4" to tall for me. For myself and my riding style they make tight tree riding nearly impossible. The only people I know who like them are guys with stubby little arms. Rider forward with mega-wide bars is extremely awkward. I want bars I can turn inside my torso if needed, the Pro-Tapers hit you in the belly or chest depending on your position on the sled.

 

[mountainhorse]

Heres a tip.... you will destroy the grip warmers (most likey) if you take them apart.

IMO... keep the stock bars intact... disconnect the grip heaters at the connectors.

Remove the throttle flipper and pin, brake master-cylinder, PERC button... but leave the throttle block on the sled.

Go with an FTX or RSI throttle block and you will be able to keep your stock bars intact for a quick change out if you need spares or want to put it back to stock in the future.

My 2 cents.

 

[Freeride1]

I have had the worst luck with putting hand warmers on. I hate cold hands. Every set of bars I have swapped end up with non functioning warmers. I have probably wasted $1000 in grip heaters between dirtbikes and sleds over the years. wish I could figure out my problem so I could put some narrower bars on both my sleds.

 

[cobaltpilot]

Is there enough room on the end to cut 1/2" off the bars without hitting the hand warmers.

I had 3/4" cut off each side to narrow my bars. Stock bars now work very well.

No problems with heaters or anything. Couldn't cut any more down as the bend in the bars only permits the control blocks to slide so far towards the centre before you run out of room.

*heaters were removed and re-installed.

 

[M8Chris]

I'm 6' and also went with rsi bars I like my set up a little lower for the ridimg I do.

 

[skibreeze]

Heres a tip.... you will destroy the grip warmers (most likey) if you take them apart.

IMO... keep the stock bars intact... disconnect the grip heaters at the connectors.

Remove the throttle flipper and pin, brake master-cylinder, PERC button... but leave the throttle block on the sled.

Go with an FTX or RSI throttle block and you will be able to keep your stock bars intact for a quick change out if you need spares or want to put it back to stock in the future.

My 2 cents.

We just ordered the stock throttle block, that way we able to keep the factory throttle safety switches and have a complete spare set of bars for spare.

 

[plumbpowder]

I must be missing something I'm 6'2" and put the rsi riser on with the stock Pro Taper and love them had them on the 2011 and now the Orange Madness

 

[FatDogX]

That RSI set-up is pretty nice. What kind of $$$$ and where from???

 

[2XM3]

Take a sledge hammer and wack it damn hard in the middle bending the bars in and up. Solves both your problems.
sorry had to

Nah just use a tree, works good trust me....hahahahahaha about 25 mph is a good number

 

[maxitout77]

I have a standard RMK and the stock bars are perfect (for me). They are about 2 inches narrower than the Protapers and have a good bend. They also have the mountain strap tabs welded in place.

I also think the std RMK bar end hooks are much more usefull than the ones on the Pro

 

[AndrettiDog]

Heres a tip.... you will destroy the grip warmers (most likey) if you take them apart.

IMO... keep the stock bars intact... disconnect the grip heaters at the connectors.

Remove the throttle flipper and pin, brake master-cylinder, PERC button... but leave the throttle block on the sled.

Go with an FTX or RSI throttle block and you will be able to keep your stock bars intact for a quick change out if you need spares or want to put it back to stock in the future.

My 2 cents.

I was trying to do the same thing. Leave everything but the brake, perc and throttle assembly on so that I could use the bars on another sled (or in case I don't like the RSI setup). However, you have to go to new throttle block and kill switch which can be touchy on the Pro. I had a buddy do that and had nothing but issues with his TPS. I'm not sure if it was a coincidence or not. The Pro throttle block will not come off unless the grip and heater comes off.