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anybody gut their intake?

have the hood off on my sled right now, and started looking at the upper intake that is on the hood. there is a lot of plastic ducting in there that looks like it is pretty restrictive. just wondering if anybody has cut thiers out or if it would be a bad idea. any input would be great.
 
I put the slp intake on my sled, I put it after one ride and have never had a bog. The only thing is when drill the holes threw to top you have to be way careful. as soon as you get threw the first layer you are already drill into the horns on your intake. I would recommended do it
 
Pretty much everyone that is super knowledgeable about these 800 CFI motors agrees that it's a bad idea to gut your airbox, infact I think some people have done independent tests that show you actually loose some power by doing it, so I would 100% recommend not gutting it.

Just read your post again, I don't know if you mean upper portion or lower portion...
 
The new slp intake instructions say don't worry about cutting into the air horns, the first ones were instructions for the 10 rush, the 800 like a lot of air according to some
 
its the upper portion, has two air horns that dump air aways away from the piece that connects to the air box

the air horns are in the lower portion of the airbox. the upper part that mounts to your hood should be left alone to maintain the flow I would guess.
 
i guess you could say they are the baffles not air horns, i think that i might just leave it alone, this thing runs pretty good the way it is. just wondering if anybody has seen significant gains from doing it. but after reading the post about the slp, kinda seems a wash.
 
well i know on my d7 it was fouling plugs and after i gutted the air box they were dark brown and quit fouling so hmmmm more air everybody said it wouldnt, take what slp says with a grain of salt iam running slp twins on my sled and the guy at slp told me they would run terrible on my sled because i didnt have porting i told him i already had them on the sled for a year and they were working great he got snooty with me and didnt say much after that. Take it how you want it but in my eyes they try to sell you stuff you dont need but on the other side they do make good products as well.


If it was me if you can take it out and put it back in later if it dont work try gutting it and see how it does but dont ruin it so you cant put it back to stock

but remember more air the more fuel you need unless its super rich
 
I looked into this when I first got my sled and yes I would agree that gutting the actual lower airbox is a very bad idea because I the IAT gauge thing in the airbox needs that shelf with the horns to work right. But in the hood, you have a intake plenum that directs the air from the two intakes outside of the hood into the snorkel and then into the lower airbox. I did a test where I completely removed the "intake plenum ducts" from the hood's air intake plenum and I did NOT notice any performance improvements compared to my buddy's stock pro. So what I did was, I trimmed the really restricted one to match the opening of the other side and I have been running it like this for the past couple hundred miles with no issues. Don't think it really helped though. Here is a couple pics with the air intake plenum seperated showing the ducts in place and removed. They do look very restrictive though.
8c4c2f30.jpg

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removed ducts
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3e21e3fc.jpg
 
have the hood off on my sled right now, and started looking at the upper intake that is on the hood. there is a lot of plastic ducting in there that looks like it is pretty restrictive. just wondering if anybody has cut thiers out or if it would be a bad idea. any input would be great.

Removed mine when I put on the SLP intake. Main reason was to enhance deep snow performance. So far working great. No choking out at all in the deep stuff.
 
mine has never choked out in deep snow either. good intake placement on Polaris's part. Mine is stock
 
I have left mine stock. Remember, these motors are basically air pumps. Not only do you have to worry about restrictions, but also flow. By flow I don't mean volume, but rather turbulence-- or lack there of. In 2010, I worked as a crew chief in the Moto2 World Championships, where we were required to use a stock CBR600 airbox with our CBR600 engines. We were able to make gains and LOSSES by changing the routing of air through the frame and trying to decrease the turbulence. It doesn't surprise me that those that have changed the internal shape haven't noticed large gains. Modern intakes and exhausts -- even with EPA restrictions or maybe because of-- are pretty sophisticated and you really have to take into consideration all the ramifications of a given mod.
 
I took the same pieces out that Die Hard Poo did and have not noticed any difference. I had to take mine out since I installed some SLP flow rites that I had laying around. I personally feel that the upper baffles are just for reducing intake sound to meet requirements just like the extra foam behind the pre filter. However, I have not and will not gut the main air box. I did it just to reduce any chance of choking.
 
I installed a 2" flowrite in the upper main airbox for deep days..so when the vents plug(which they all do) it can pull air thru the flowrite between the tank and the airbox(just like slp's powder valves)..a simple peice of duct tape over it until its needed....
 
There's a hell of a difference between getting the airbox and removing or cutting into baffles in the intake, I think some people are getting the intake and airbox confused, I don't think anyone on here is touching their airbox
 
too bad they didn't design it like the yamaha wr450 i had awhile ago. to meet all of the epa crap, they put an insert in the muffler that necked it down to the size of a pencil and the intake was about the size of a quarter. would barely run until you removed them, then it came alive.
 
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