any one having troubles getting primary off?

[rydningen]

put the puller in and tighten it good then slightly hit it with a 4lb hammer...(a good few taps) then tighten the puller more until it pops right off!! itll come just keep cranking on it

dont be scared to crank on it

You should not tap on anything while removing the clutch.

Can you imagine what happens to the ball bearings on your crank when you tap the end of your puller? All this force is transferred into your crank which then tries to "move" it through the crankcase to the mag side.

It should not be necessary to hit it anyway, use a little grease on the end and on the threads and apply a little heat to the steel center of the clucth, beetween the sheaves....like mentioned above.

A little patience is a good thing when dealing with this procedure to.

 

[beefspots]

wifeys blow dryer or a heat gun and POP!

 

[winter brew]

The hydraulic/teflon tape method is easiest on everything, it will usually pop before the puller even touches the crank if no water blows past the tape.
With the "normal" puller method another little trick is to tighten the puller and tap the SIDE of the puller head Not hard, and not the end of the puller but just a light tap on one of the hex flats....this works a lot of the time and isn't putting force into the crank like pounding on the end of it.
On the P-85 most of the springs are so short it's easy to start the bolts by hand, have not had to pull one in quite a while to change springs, arms etc...

 

[icerider600]

Teflon tape does work good, but I found that using black electrical tape works even better and faster and you dont have to use as much!!

 

[Reg2view]

For worst cases, or in a pinch, if you can't get the water method to work, you're not doing it right. Puller isn't even required. The power of water pressure is pretty amazing. Without water, grease on the tip is mandatory, and usually works well on a clutch that gets pulled routinely.

 

[LoudHandle]

A lot of good info here.
Is using an impact wrench to remove the primary a problem??

You should never use an impact wrench with any puller! A little bit of grease if the sled is left flat. Oil (my preference) with the sled on it's side is usually enough with a fair amount of torque applied. If it still doesn't pop (Last resort for those really stubborn ones, rarely comes to this and usually the engine isn't the part your trying to save) a generous tap with a brass hammer should yield the desired "POP".

 

[mike_s]

The Hydraulic method works best when the clutch simply refuses to come off. I would use oil before i dumped water down inside the crank snout. corrosion is your enemy, and if its not completely dry in there when you put everything back together then that moisture is trapped in there until the next time you try to pull it apart. Bad juju.

 

[CO 2.0]

I don't want oil anywhere near my clutches, just my $.02

Once the clutch is off the crank stub and inside the hole can be dried using some compressed air. I have never had any issues with corrosion using water if you clean it up and make sure everything is dry upon re-assembly.

 

[LoudHandle]

I don't want oil anywhere near my clutches, just my $.02

Once the clutch is off the crank stub and inside the hole can be dried using some compressed air. I have never had any issues with corrosion using water if you clean it up and make sure everything is dry upon re-assembly.

That is your prerogative; but I would guess you do not soak and scrub your belts and they are saturated with oil during the manufacturing process and unless your really clumsy all the oil stays inside the stub / taper, you shouldn't get any slopped on the sheaves.

 

[xc6rider]

I just can't understand why anyone thinks they need to lay the sled over on it's side and dump a fluid into the clutch....

Never had a problem removing a clutch with the grease method.

I'd flip if I ever saw a tech flopping a sled over on it's side in a shop for any kind of work.

 

[LoudHandle]

I just can't understand why anyone thinks they need to lay the sled over on it's side and dump a fluid into the clutch....

Never had a problem removing a clutch with the grease method.

I'd flip if I ever saw a tech flopping a sled over on it's side in a shop for any kind of work.

Good on you for never needing to use what will always work even when the clutch is rusted to the crank!

Flip away! I do it out on the snow or in the trailer all the time. Changing tracks without draining the chain case oil, swapping ratios in the chain case, etc. If you want to flip over that then you've never been to a race, it cuts the time to do said tasks in half.

 

[Oregonsledder]

I just can't understand why anyone thinks they need to lay the sled over on it's side and dump a fluid into the clutch....

Never had a problem removing a clutch with the grease method.

I'd flip if I ever saw a tech flopping a sled over on it's side in a shop for any kind of work.

XC, I tend to agree with you. I pull on average, 3 or 4 clutches a week on all brands of all ages, and have never done the water or oil... sled on it's side deal. I use proper pullers and sometimes some heat on the hub next to the crank, on the inside of the non-moveable sheave. I have bent a puller or two, but have never had to pound on a puller or use an impact wrench. Putting a dab of grease on the puller tip and threads is critical.
I do at times, have to use a long breaker bar, but most of the time they pop off pretty easy.

 

[winter brew]

In the shop I use the traditional puller 99% of the time also, usually 1-2 times a day...only break out the water and tape for the occasional stubborn clutch.
I do use the water method on the hill when I might take the clutch off my sled 3-4-5 times in a day of testing.....it's just easier on me and the sled.
It's also handy if you don't have a puller as the clutch retaining bolt will also work to pull the clutch.

 

[CO 2.0]

That is your prerogative; but I would guess you do not soak and scrub your belts and they are saturated with oil during the manufacturing process and unless your really clumsy all the oil stays inside the stub / taper, you shouldn't get any slopped on the sheaves.

I am a mechanic. I scrub my belts and my clutch sheaves with a scotch bright pad with soap and water after every single ride. Also blow out my clutches with compressed air every ride too. No need to make assumptions about others you don't even know. Again, my $.02

I just can't understand why anyone thinks they need to lay the sled over on it's side and dump a fluid into the clutch....

Never had a problem removing a clutch with the grease method.

I'd flip if I ever saw a tech flopping a sled over on it's side in a shop for any kind of work.

The only thing "on its side" when you put a sled on its side in a garage is one handlebar end resting against a bucket. You only need to have the sled on its side to pour the water in and insert the puller. Once the puller is in you can put it down down level since the teflon tape shouldn't allow water to escape, if you do it right.

To each his own, I don't post useful info to have people just bash on it just because it's not "their" thing. It works, plain and simple.

 

[LoudHandle]

XC, I tend to agree with you. I pull on average, 3 or 4 clutches a week on all brands of all ages, and have never done the water or oil... sled on it's side deal. I use proper pullers and sometimes some heat on the hub next to the crank, on the inside of the non-moveable sheave. I have bent a puller or two, but have never had to pound on a puller or use an impact wrench. Putting a dab of grease on the puller tip and threads is critical.
I do at times, have to use a long breaker bar, but most of the time they pop off pretty easy.

I personally would never use heat either, in all likely hood you just destroyed the straightness of the clutch and likely took any factory heat treatment out as well. I'm sure everyone has good intentions and is trying to be helpful here but some of this stuff is just bad practice and while it may work you are leaving something weaker and more failure prone than before you touched it. A lot of the crank and clutch failures are self inflicted by well meaning uneducated "mechanics".

 

[Oregonsledder]

I personally would never use heat either, in all likely hood you just destroyed the straightness of the clutch and likely took any factory heat treatment out as well. I'm sure everyone has good intentions and is trying to be helpful here but some of this stuff is just bad practice and while it may work you are leaving something weaker and more failure prone than before you touched it. A lot of the crank and clutch failures are self inflicted by well meaning uneducated "mechanics".

A little heat on the hub, doesn't hurt a thing. LOL And by the way, you know nothing about my training or experience... do ya? Have you ever measured the temp of a primary clutch after a hard long pull? I have, I can assure you a little heat on the steel hub is nothing that a clutch doesn't see on a regular basis under normal riding conditions. Don't use heat if you are afraid to, but I do this for a living, and know from years of experience that a small amount of concetrated heat not only makes a hard to get off clutch come off easier, but does no damage.

 

[LoudHandle]

A little heat on the hub, doesn't hurt a thing. LOL And by the way, you no nothing about my training or experience... do ya?

I personally can not advocate heat on here, as your definition of a "little" is not consistent for everyone. There is no doubt someone will use a "Little" too much and cause damage. And no I have no clue about your background, but........

I work in a shop of twenty plus "professionals" and see sh-t everyday that should "Never" be done, hence my hesitance to advocate anything that could be marginal or construed incorrectly. Sorry you're so sensitive and are taking my comments personally. I've said what I needed to, Again do what you want, but I will not be responsible for your outcome.

 

[Oregonsledder]

I personally can not advocate heat on here, as your definition of a "little" is not consistent for everyone. There is no doubt someone will use a "Little" too much and cause damage. And no I have no clue about your background, but........

I work in a shop of twenty plus "professionals" and see sh-t everyday that should "Never" be done, hence my hesitance to advocate anything that could be marginal or construed incorrectly. Sorry you're so sensitive and are taking my comments personally. I've said what I needed to, Again do what you want, but I will not be responsible for your outcome.

We are in agreement then... as you stated above "you have no clue" Yer killing me buddy!

 

[High Velocity]

I've been lucky and haven't had to resort to heat YET. However, after 30 yrs as a mechanic, I would not hesitate to do so if the situation called for it. I would definitely use my infra red thermometer or a tempil stick to ensure I was not exceeding 300* F. No damage to the crank or clutch will occur at that temp.
I have removed stubborn clutches another way that some here would balk at. Get the puller as tight as you can and give the end of the puller a quick, sharp rap with a hammer. Don't beat the crap out of it. I've used this method many times on my own sleds and NEVER caused crank damage. Bottom line is a lot of effective methods have been discussed here, so pick one you're comfortable with.




Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.

 

[Oregonsledder]

I've been lucky and haven't had to resort to heat YET. However, after 30 yrs as a mechanic, I would not hesitate to do so if the situation called for it. I would definitely use my infra red thermometer or a tempil stick to ensure I was not exceeding 300* F. No damage to the crank or clutch will occur at that temp.
I have removed stubborn clutches another way that some here would balk at. Get the puller as tight as you can and give the end of the puller a quick, sharp rap with a hammer. Don't beat the crap out of it. I've used this method many times on my own sleds and NEVER caused crank damage. Bottom line is a lot of effective methods have been discussed here, so pick one you're comfortable with.


Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.

I seldom have to use it either and when I do, it's just a little map gas. I find that when I have the puller tightened to the point where I think the tips about to start bending, I apply a little heat to the hub (for about 1 minute or so) and let it heat soak for another minute, and then usually the next 1/8 turn or so on the puller and it pops off. I feel it's better to apply a little bit of heat then to take the chance of stripping the clutch threads or worse bending the tip of the puller to the point that it ruins the crank threads on the way out. I have had sleds brought to me after someone has bent a puller and buggerd up the threads, in extreme cases it can require a new crank, or some red locktite and hope for the best, after chasing the threads. I would try the water trick if I couldn't get one off the normal way.