Allen bolts backing out under motor plate

[Bull]

any chance to edit the title of this thread, since it turned out to have nothing to do with the crank or a failure? not dogging in ANY way, just trying to limit the urban legend stuff to real crank failures, which i am sure have happened. might also lead someone to this thread/problem more directly to help them out with a similar problem to yours (mount plate). glad to hear you are back up and running. can you bring some friggin' snow to colorado so i can try to break something?????

 

[Scott]

Should edit title...great idea Bull.

What do we want to call it?

 

[Scott]

How is that?

 

[2XM3]

lol... good one Scott.....

It would be really nice to see the exact location of the bolts to drill the holes, thats the way i'm going to go if they back out.

Maybe a small diagram with measurments from a known spot? Thanks in advance!!!

 

[pura vida]

thanks scott. technically they are just 15mm head bolts, not allen head bolts. i tried to edit the title earlier on and thought i did but it only showed up once you opened the thread. the thread title stayed the same. this is much better, especially since it has nothing to do with the crank. i'll add a disclaimer on the original post but leave it as is so that the thread makes since. my final "fix" was to add copious amounts of red lock tight and a lock washer to each bolt. i would recommend checking these bolts every 1000 miles.

pv

 

[srosscojw]

just finished installing new allen head socket bolts into my motor straps. I didn't pull the motor, instead desided to cut holes into the bottom not that big of a deal. After looking at it there was an alum. plate that is riveted between the cast bulkhead and the front cooler (on standard rmk) so i cut holes where or close to where the bolts were located. I also did what 2xm3 said in his post i drilled holes through the head of the allen bolt and safety wired the bolts in with loctite also. shouldn't have to worry again. I then cut an alum. plate 3/16"x 6"x12" and riveted into place also put a good bit of silicone under and around the plate to seal it up good. this only took about 1-1/2 hours to do plus didn't have to mess with wires. witch have enough trouble. here are some pics. of the project.

would it be possible to just drill the rivets out, remove the plate, tighten said bolts and re rivet the plate back on? I assume there is a reason this isnt possible but had to ask?

 

[Bull]

sweet change. great thread, and lots more helpful with the accurate title.
PV, i know you weren't intending some kind of rant. there have been a couple on here about dealers or poo and, fair enough when accurate, but not so good when they are not aimed correctly. certainly something i will keep an eye/ear on.

 

[Aussie Niko]

just finished installing new allen head socket bolts into my motor straps. I didn't pull the motor, instead desided to cut holes into the bottom not that big of a deal. After looking at it there was an alum. plate that is riveted between the cast bulkhead and the front cooler (on standard rmk) so i cut holes where or close to where the bolts were located. I also did what 2xm3 said in his post i drilled holes through the head of the allen bolt and safety wired the bolts in with loctite also. shouldn't have to worry again. I then cut an alum. plate 3/16"x 6"x12" and riveted into place also put a good bit of silicone under and around the plate to seal it up good. this only took about 1-1/2 hours to do plus didn't have to mess with wires. witch have enough trouble. here are some pics. of the project.

Friggin top job there Chad!! I'm going to be doing this for sure!! Having a viewing panel to remove and check oil lines and bolts is gold!!

 

[JohnJerk]

Is this 2011 only or both years? Brother has 2012 with clutch squeal at idle; squeal changed when pulling on ski to get unstuck. Seems it could be similar prob.

 

[pura vida]

i think it is more of a millage thing rather than a year thing. your deflection needs to be adjusted if your belt is squealing. probably not the same thing.

pv

 

[Rick!]

would it be possible to just drill the rivets out, remove the plate, tighten said bolts and re rivet the plate back on? I assume there is a reason this isnt possible but had to ask?

I'm with you on that. Remove rivets, carefully pry off the plate, do your business, clean off the old adhesive, re-glue, re-rivet and call 'er good.

 

[flying frenchman]

Here's a good one. I'm not so lucky, couldn't find the bolt that holds the engine strap on. Started digging and found out MAG side strap was loose. Lifted motor to remove strap, took out front bolt, no sign of ant locktite was used.
Strap is shot so is the one bolt that's left, but here's my delema the rear bolt is broke in the case. Should this be covered under powertrain warranty, since it's broke? Can this bolt be remove from the case with out pulling the motor?
Never ever had any problems with motor straps coming loose or breaking bolts on any of my other sleds.. Is this a problem with this sled? Are these straps to small and engine vibrations will always loosen them or break bolts? Would an engine plate be a benefit? It would also reduce engine flex, but would it cure my problem?, or would a different brand cause me less grief.

 

[pura vida]

assuming you still have a warranty then yes it will be covered for sure. i think this is going to be a problem that pops up on more and more of the sleds as more of them get over 1500 miles. when i put mine back in i used lots of red lock tight and added lock washers. i think swapping to a motor plate would have advantages but i'm not sure it would solve the backing out issue. although it may help sense the motor wouldn't flex as much but you would still be getting the vibration.

pv

 

[Merlin]

Would an engine plate be a benefit? It would also reduce engine flex, but would it cure my problem.

The 6 mount billet engine plate from FTX looks like it'd be the "answer" to a poorly designed factory engine mounting system.........only problem is it is not exactly priced for the average overworked, underpaid customer!

 

[flying frenchman]

Awesome. Polaris is gonna warranty the parts and labour. These parts probably broke a few hundred miles ago. If my sled wouldn't of been in the shop for two months last year, then I would of found out about it last spring. I hope this won't be a problem on my next Pro. Maybe a 2013 is in my future.

 

[pura vida]

just to update, as some know i smoke my motor on saturday (other issue, other thread) but when my dealer pulled the motor they found another broken motor plate mount bolt. this one was on the pto side and the head was completely broken off and the rest of the bolt was still in the case. before one of the mag side bolts completely fell out and the other was halfway out. when i fixed those, i checked all four and the pto side was good. have no idea when this one broke but it is definitely something people need to keep an eye on and check on a regular basis.

pv

 

[Aussie Niko]

Thanks for the up date, I'm going to be wiring up all mine once its home.

 

[silberpro]

Did anyone build a templet for exact hole location?
Thanks