Airbox solutions
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Clean
So have you had a chance to run it out in the snow yet? Looks great so far and easy to assemble/maintain!
I am also wondering as well if anyone is having problems with freezing carbs with the air box in the bike still or if they freeze only when the air box is removed? Just haven't seen a freezing carb on any of our bikes yet but we've maintained the air box due to air/fuel behavior with differing velocities due to air flow.
So have you had a chance to run it out in the snow yet? Looks great so far and easy to assemble/maintain!
I am also wondering as well if anyone is having problems with freezing carbs with the air box in the bike still or if they freeze only when the air box is removed? Just haven't seen a freezing carb on any of our bikes yet but we've maintained the air box due to air/fuel behavior with differing velocities due to air flow.
M
mtn-doo
Well-known member
Thanks for your interest. I am in the middle of a couple big projects right now. I will not be able to make a bunch of custom intakes until build projects are done. Once riding begins, and projects slow down, I will be happy to make intake systems for who ever wants one. Stay in contact. Thanks
A couple local lads are working on a snorkel for the 570 Husaberg, this is a rough pressed form that will get a snorkel that points forward. I will post more photo's as it develops.
Well I would be intrested in that,,,it looks like the same shape as the air filter? I was thinking of making a duct through the seat and sewing in outerware material as a cover
Yes, it replaces the air box cover and will have a snorkel welded to it, there is still some debate if it will be round or oval. It will need to project through the front of the seat somehow.
There is going to be a need for a second hold down spring unless some comes up with something clearer. More to come that's for sure.
03 wr450 air box modifications
last year rode my wr snobike all spring with stock air box and no snow ingestion issues, was always warm so no issues.
This fall I modified the stock air box so the box itself is the snow filter and run no filter inside the box just the backfire screen. the goal was to keep all the loose snow on the outside falling off the box and have no place to snow and ice to build.
First I dissassebled the box out of the frame and cut holes in the box in the rear fender area and the right side panel. Both areas provide good air flow, no issues with rider's legs rubbing the snow on the screen.....so I did not do the left side of air box which is one layer of plastic. I covered all the holes on the outside of the box with pet screen from Ace Hdw, glued on with 3M plastic emblem adhesive, sand the area to be glued with 24 grit to rough it up for glue to stick. I coverred the stock two little holes in the top of the air box with some FROGZ Skin on the outside.
On the inside of the box I covered these same holes with FROGZ SKIN fine black mesh to keep out the water and snow. Used same 3m cement.
I am posting this after running it all day yesterday to give the setup a good test.
Works, BUT, when you alter the air box you must be prepared to jet accordingly. Last year the ol 450 hummed with 160 main, 70 leak jet, 50 pilot. Yesterday I brought jets, ran ok but not inspiring and I could feel hesitation and kind of a weak mid range. Started jetting up, went from 160 to 180, just getting better at each change after about the 168 went in........oh how nice, huge improvment in low and mid range and pulls now on top. As weather cools this winter I will keep adjusting.
ONE NOTE ON JETTING. while fooling around I cut the fuel screw just a little and turned up the idle screw and raised up the slide a little to get a higher idle..........ooops, now I remember, using the idle screw to raise the slide for a faster higher idle WILL CAUSE HARD STARTING......epecially when its cold or earyly morning starts. Want it to start with half a kick, adjust to have the lowest slide position you can.
Also while on this project I bourght my vent lines into a pill bottle under the carb mounted on the engine, and ran a vent line from this bottle to the air box, and a drain line in the bottle to let gas out. Another post mentioned you don't want to just run all those lines into the air box, I AGREE, tried that years ago prepping bikes for wet cross country races.........you'll have problems if you don't allow the fuel to drain down out of the carb after a spill or big jump and keep the vent lines clean of gas.
last year rode my wr snobike all spring with stock air box and no snow ingestion issues, was always warm so no issues.
This fall I modified the stock air box so the box itself is the snow filter and run no filter inside the box just the backfire screen. the goal was to keep all the loose snow on the outside falling off the box and have no place to snow and ice to build.
First I dissassebled the box out of the frame and cut holes in the box in the rear fender area and the right side panel. Both areas provide good air flow, no issues with rider's legs rubbing the snow on the screen.....so I did not do the left side of air box which is one layer of plastic. I covered all the holes on the outside of the box with pet screen from Ace Hdw, glued on with 3M plastic emblem adhesive, sand the area to be glued with 24 grit to rough it up for glue to stick. I coverred the stock two little holes in the top of the air box with some FROGZ Skin on the outside.
On the inside of the box I covered these same holes with FROGZ SKIN fine black mesh to keep out the water and snow. Used same 3m cement.
I am posting this after running it all day yesterday to give the setup a good test.
Works, BUT, when you alter the air box you must be prepared to jet accordingly. Last year the ol 450 hummed with 160 main, 70 leak jet, 50 pilot. Yesterday I brought jets, ran ok but not inspiring and I could feel hesitation and kind of a weak mid range. Started jetting up, went from 160 to 180, just getting better at each change after about the 168 went in........oh how nice, huge improvment in low and mid range and pulls now on top. As weather cools this winter I will keep adjusting.
ONE NOTE ON JETTING. while fooling around I cut the fuel screw just a little and turned up the idle screw and raised up the slide a little to get a higher idle..........ooops, now I remember, using the idle screw to raise the slide for a faster higher idle WILL CAUSE HARD STARTING......epecially when its cold or earyly morning starts. Want it to start with half a kick, adjust to have the lowest slide position you can.
Also while on this project I bourght my vent lines into a pill bottle under the carb mounted on the engine, and ran a vent line from this bottle to the air box, and a drain line in the bottle to let gas out. Another post mentioned you don't want to just run all those lines into the air box, I AGREE, tried that years ago prepping bikes for wet cross country races.........you'll have problems if you don't allow the fuel to drain down out of the carb after a spill or big jump and keep the vent lines clean of gas.
wr450
I'll post the pictures of my vent lines. Also in vent line picture is my engine vent line with yellow stripe going into top right of air box.
Also I added a YAMHA RAPTOR termostat. Worked great road through snow and fog, keep heat in motor and melted snow off radiators, my parterners EFI yam with no thermo worked ok but was cold all day with radiators mostly covered.
I see picture of bottle was before I put the lid on, of course you want the lid on when you hit the snow.
I'll post the pictures of my vent lines. Also in vent line picture is my engine vent line with yellow stripe going into top right of air box.
Also I added a YAMHA RAPTOR termostat. Worked great road through snow and fog, keep heat in motor and melted snow off radiators, my parterners EFI yam with no thermo worked ok but was cold all day with radiators mostly covered.
I see picture of bottle was before I put the lid on, of course you want the lid on when you hit the snow.
S
snorider99
New member
Whats your buddy got put on the front of his bike that looks like a snow deflector?
That is a lot of air.
I would have thought that the top and sides by them selve would be more then enough air for that bike.
I would have thought that the top and sides by them selve would be more then enough air for that bike.
wr air box
about the the two above posts.
Tom's 2010 Yamaha has a plastic kids sled skid pan under his sled to keep the loose snow off the engine to minimize heat loss from snow coming around the motor, we'll see how that works as the season progresses.
When making my air box, it might be a little over the top as far as increasing the new surface area for air coming in, was easy to do at the time and in the event I'm in some of the snow I ride on my M8's i'll need it.
about the the two above posts.
Tom's 2010 Yamaha has a plastic kids sled skid pan under his sled to keep the loose snow off the engine to minimize heat loss from snow coming around the motor, we'll see how that works as the season progresses.
When making my air box, it might be a little over the top as far as increasing the new surface area for air coming in, was easy to do at the time and in the event I'm in some of the snow I ride on my M8's i'll need it.
silicone intakes and boondocker pod
09 kx450 clean air intake. with snow shield
09 kx450 clean air intake. with snow shield
So you just leave the airbox open and run the machine like that? No air filter or anything? You arent getting too much air that way either?
jmo
the kaw is injected so dont have any. i would think just run up to the highest point you can and maybe put some scotch brite type material around the ends but its not like they are drawing air so they should be ok.. keep away from exhaust just in case you tip over
i wonder y you could't just run like 3 inch long ones and just keep by carb. maybe have to change jetting a touch.
the kaw is injected so dont have any. i would think just run up to the highest point you can and maybe put some scotch brite type material around the ends but its not like they are drawing air so they should be ok.. keep away from exhaust just in case you tip over
i wonder y you could't just run like 3 inch long ones and just keep by carb. maybe have to change jetting a touch.
NO air up date
Last couple of weeks my WR450 air box mod worked great........in wet snow.
BUT today we got into 3' + of sticky fluff, could'd find my shifter, could'd find my foot pegs, getting stuck on flat ground on my 136 wasn't a problem, sucked up a 3 gallon tank of gas in an hour and a half. And I plugged up all my air intakes numerous times till she would miss in mid range and no run on top end. Tough going. Going to have to look at my air box mod again.
Tom's 2010 efi YZ450 with just frogz skin over stock air intake up under the tank did great, never missed a beat.
Last couple of weeks my WR450 air box mod worked great........in wet snow.
BUT today we got into 3' + of sticky fluff, could'd find my shifter, could'd find my foot pegs, getting stuck on flat ground on my 136 wasn't a problem, sucked up a 3 gallon tank of gas in an hour and a half. And I plugged up all my air intakes numerous times till she would miss in mid range and no run on top end. Tough going. Going to have to look at my air box mod again.
Tom's 2010 efi YZ450 with just frogz skin over stock air intake up under the tank did great, never missed a beat.
C
Cat Bandit
Well-known member
Another question i have is about jetting. My bike is carbed, and I'm wondering if jetting up for the intake is necessary? It runs pretty well now with just the foam filter and the prefilter from tsled. Thanks guys!
You guys trying to run an airbox would save yourselves a lot headache if you would just remove the airbox and run a pod/snorkel setup, believe me I have been there and done that.
