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Airbox solutions

Anyone willing to post some of their airbox solutions? Such as routing the carb vent hoses inside, sealing them off to eliminate snow entry and or even deleting the airboxes.

I am riding an '09 YZ450 with a Timbersled kit.

Thanks!
 
Best solution that I've found is to get rid of the airbox altogether. If you like to tinker and build stuff, you can easily make a snorkel intake yourself, if not, call up 2moto and order their intake.

I have a 2moto intake on my CRF, just because it comes with the pod filter and an aluminium and rubber tube from the throttle body to the filter with a MAF sensor built in.
 
Delete it... People's troubles witht the airbox sounds entirely too much of a pain. You can just have it go straight to a pod filter with a prefilter...
 
tinkering is what its all about right! Anyway any pics of the 2 Moto Intake kit. does is install in place of the airbox and tuck under the seat. Ive seen some sticking out of the fender area........no need to get hung up on the filter when riding.

Thanks for the feedback
 
I just did a snorkel setup and test rode it this weekend, worked AWESOME on my 03 yz450.

carb to a silicone coupler, to 2.5" off the carb and placing the uni filter with outerwears pre filter over top of it. mounted partially sticking out from under the seat.

ran the filter/cover this weekend in fluffy snow and temps got above freezing and snow was sticking to everything, except the filter, ran great and placement causes leg to brush against it keeping it clean.
 
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I ride an 2008 KTM XCRW 530 and my buddy rides a 2005 Yamaha WR450. We both used the Timbersled prefilters last year with no other mods to the airbox and had no problems. Though we're in Washington and our snow ("Washington concrete") tends to be very wet and heavy so we probably get less powder in the airbox than guys riding in the Rockies might experience.

We both started last season with our carb lines routed into an quarter-sized hole that we cut and sealed in the airbox. We were unable to find a solution that would allow the lines to consistently gravity drain into the airbox and ended up having to put the airbox hole about mid height next to the filter. This worked perfectly until either of us would dump a bike. We'd end up with fuel left in the "droop" in some of the carb lines and it was causing us problems. I'm admittedly not a carb expert, but I do know the bikes both started easier and ran better when the drain/vacuum lines were open.

So last season we generated the solution in the attached pics. It's a ketchup bottle with a few holes cut in the bottom and a yellow-green sponge to keep snow from packing the drain holes. Total cost was less than $5 for each bike. Both bikes went on many rides with zero problems after we installed these.

P1010074.jpg P1010076.jpg
 
You can't see the intake real well, but you get the idea. It's just a pod filter mounted to the carb/throttle body with an outerwear over it. Fits under the seat where the intake boot normally is.

On my bike, I zip-ty a piece of foam under the filter to shield it from the track. I haven't had any issues with this set up. I know others have "piped" the filter further back, but I really don't see the need.
 
Clean Air Intake System

Hey Guys,
Here is a super clean system I am working on. It fits cleanly under your seat and between the side panels. Looks OEM. Some important factors to consider are the diameter and length. The stock air box has a built in velocity stack as the intake boot. This venturi design is very important to maintain or duplicate as closely as possible or your bike will not run properly. The system I have designed closely replicates this. If you have a long 2" intake tube to your pre-filte, you will suffer performance greatly. The 2" end connecting to the throttle body should be no longer than 3" to 3 3/4", then as enlarge as you have room for, as quickly as possible, will replicate the volume and velocity required. This system is 2" for 3" in length, then expands to 3" in the shape of a venturi. The 3" pre-filter is attached via a stainless steel silicone joiner. Do "not" run a foam filter under the pre-filter. The pre-filter sucks against the foam and will glaze over reducing air flow. Run the pre-filter only, as you would on a sled.

Mountain Horse Clean Air Intake System small image.jpg
 
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siliconeintakes.com

all sorts of wild shapes, bends, reducers, etc.... and metal couplers. perfect for fabbing up a snorkel style intake.

But head his warnings, more then 4-5" of 2" tubing and your bike is gonna run like POOP! way to much restriction and the increased vaccum messes with the air bleed signal on the carb inlet = bad running scooter.
 
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Yes, the 2" to 3" bending/reducing coupling from siliconeintakes. Then some slight trimming to custom fit it. With the 45 degree bend, you can turn it slightly to fit the pre-filter location in the perfect spot. Also some throttle bodies come off the motor at a slight angle. A slight rotation turns the assembly neatly under your seat. I also use stainless steel T-Bolt clamps. Then paint them gloss black. Finishes up very nice.
 
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The stuff needed to make an exact replica of the 2Moto filter is available on Ebay for a lot less bucks than 2Moto charge.

The base is a Unifilter with the 10,15 or 20 degree "bend" on. This is an exact copy of the filter for my wr 450 -06. Then you order the water repellant prefilter for it from Outerwear, since they deliver the prefilter to 2Moto. About half the prize than what 2Moto charges. Can be fitted to all carbed bikes.
Very easy to make your own versions of it too, if you want tighter bends, longer filters, colors etc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400320736555?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...&_sacat=0&_odkw=prefilter&_osacat=0&_from=R40

Rob
 
Yes, the 2" to 3" bending/reducing coupling from siliconeintakes. Then some slight trimming to custom fit it. With the 45 degree bend, you can turn it slightly to fit the pre-filter location in the perfect spot. Also some throttle bodies come off the motor at a slight angle. A slight rotation turns the assembly neatly under your seat. I also use stainless steel T-Bolt clamps. Then paint them gloss black. Finishes up very nice.

This is sweet, but where did you get the filter itself from? I'm loving the idea of the super simple, and fairly inexpensive intake! Thanks for posting!
 
This is sweet, but where did you get the filter itself from? I'm loving the idea of the super simple, and fairly inexpensive intake! Thanks for posting!

The logo and BD indicate it came from Boondocker. I can't find the cost on the website so far.
 
Ok, you don't know what he charges for the whole works do ya? I'm not trying to be cheap, i just don't have a ton of cash laying around for my project...
 
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