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AFTERMARKET 2013-2015 pro rmk 800 fuel filter INFO/PART #'s

Does anybody have a answer on if spi has made one or is going to have had great luck with there others for other sleds
 
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Aftermarket filter

WPS (Western Power Sports) has them.

Same for 2013 - 2015 PRO -Chassis RMK's (PRO and Std. models... 600 and 800's)

WPS Part # 12-1164

$81.00 MSRP

Comparison: Stock Polaris filter. PN 2521189
MSRP $163.00
Street price $139.00

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Just an FYI: I checked and WPS does not have that item in stock yet with no ETA. It is a new part for them. They have plenty on order.
 
Anybody have the part number for the 2012 Pro RMK 800 fuel filter, offered by Hi Performance Engineering?
 
TTT.

Talked to them on the phone... they expect Mid October for arrival.

They are wholesale... So you have to be a WPS dealer to order.

IMO...place an order with a dealer...put them on back-order and you will be guaranteed to get yours when they come in the first batch.

The price is about $80 less than factory part and I would guess it comes from the same OEM supplier.

Same for 2013 - 2015 PRO -Chassis RMK's (PRO and Std. models... 600 and 800's)

WPS Part # 12-1164




WPS (Western Power Sports) has them.

Same part number for 2013 - 2015 PRO-Chassis RMK's (PRO and Std. models... 600 and 800's)

WPS Part # 12-1164

$81.00 MSRP

Comparison: Stock Polaris filter. PN 2521189
MSRP $163.00
Street price $139.00

attachment.php






















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How often do you think filter needs to be replaced if running good non-ethanol fuel?
 
Beginning of the season...

BUT...

Make sure that you have fresh fuel in the system... Drain ALL of last years gas before you put in the new filter.

Also... a good idea is... BEFORE you start the sled...drain out ALL the old gas, put in new clean gas... then run the fuel pump with the prime connector... this will flush all of the old fuel out of the injector rail so that stuff is not running through the injectors on initial startup.

THEN change the filter.

Changing that filter is a PITA.

Also, Be prepared for quite a job to R&R the fuel filter... plan on 2 hours for the lay-person. Yes, I know you super-human tech guys can do it in 8 minutes with and rock and screwdriver with one hand behind your back...but for most that have not done it before... it will take some time.

The 2011/12 end on the fuel filter-hose that attaches to the fuel- rail will fit the 2013/14/15.

Quote:
When removing the fuel filter fuel spillage will occur. Be
sure to work in a well ventilated area away from
anything which may cause the fuel to ignite such as an
open flame, heaters, trouble lights or cigarettes.
1. The fuel filter should be replaced as outlined in the
periodic maintenance table.
2. Open the left and right door panels. Remove the hood
and drive belt.
3. Disengage the rubber strap securing the oil tank to the
clutch cover. Remove the oil tank mount screw.
4. Remove the two harness connectors from the ECU.
Remove the oil tank fill cap, and then the ECU bracket.
5. Remove the four nuts that mount the clutch cover to
the chassis. Slide the oil tank down to open access to
the two rear nuts.
6. Carefully release the clutch cover from the studs and
then pull it away from the airbox.
7. Depressurize the fuel system. Remove the filter from
the airbox bracket. Disconnect the fuel supply hose
from the fuel pump flange using a disconnect tool.
8. Remove the bottom fuel fitting clamp on the fuel rail.
9. Carefully remove the fuel hose fitting from the fuel rail.
Have a clean shop rag at hand to absorb any fuel that
leaks from the fitting. Dispose of rag properly when
finished.
10. Drain any fuel in the hoses/filter into an appropriate
container, and then discard filter in accordance with
local rules and regulations.
11. Apply a light film of two stroke engine oil to the new
fuel supply hose fitting. Carefully install the fitting back
into the fuel rail. Torque screw to specification.
Fuel Hose Fittings-to-Fuel Rail Clamp Screws: 3.3 ft-lb (4.5 Nm)
12. Reconnect the supply hose to the fuel pump flange.
Verify an audible “click” is heard and the connections
are secure by firmly pulling on the two hose
connections. Push the filter cartridge back into the
bracket.
13. Inspect the hoses making sure none are worn or
damaged.
14. Reinstall the clutch cover. Torque cover nuts to
specification.
15. Reconnect the ECU wiring harness connectors.
16. Install the ECU bracket onto the oil tank. Reinstall the
oil tank. Torque mount screw to specification.
17. Reinstall the drive belt. Replace the hood and door
panels.










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HI perf eng and Dennis kirk have a filter and its cheeper than WPS and anyone can buy it ..
 
which fuel filter?

:yield:Folks,
I have 2012 PRO 800 with 2013 engine. Which filter I would need? 11-12 or 13-14?
Tthanks,
 
As long as none of the fuel system got changed from the fuel pump to the throttle body, you will use the 11'-12'. If nothing got changed in the chassis it is all still the 12' model year parts. If parts are needed for the engine, that will be the only 13' model year parts you will need.
 
well Dennis kirk no longer shows I cant bring HIperf over and post it and they only show up to the 13 model at 42.00 working down to the IQ at 24.00
 
The 2011/12 and 2013/14/15 filters are different and not interchangeable. the 11/2 has a different fuel tank-pump top than the 13/14/15.

The The 2013/2014/2015 PRO and RMK's have a 90˚ on the fuel tank end.

The other, less expensive ones, are a straight end for the 2011/12 ONLY. .... PLUS, the 2013+ do not need tools to release the fuel tank end. WPS, PERF-ENG, and Dennis Kirk are all the same cost on the 2011/12 filters.

I'm sure all three will offer the SPI for the 13/14/15's.







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GoBig... What is your price on the 2013-15 filters...When will you have them in?



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Can I use these filters even though I run Av gas? I heard it will eat apart the aftermarkets?
 
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