Adjustments for short/light riders

[displacement4me]

Looking for insight on the opposite scale of rider stature with expected delivery coming up on my 155'' 800 Pro.

As in opposite, I mean 5'4'' and 125lbs.

I already go to the gym with a healthy/physical lifestyle, but what can I do to the sled itself to help me out? I thought I read something about narrowing the bars a bit to help with leverage? Anything else?

 

[SLDHVN]

I would make sure you get the suspension dialed in and the bars set just right and you'll be fine.

Other than that nothin really, im a little bigger than you(not much) and the pro chassis works very very well for me. Being smaller has always made sledding more of a workout, but the throttle is your friend(a little throttle with some body english goes a long ways).

This is a sled you pretty much dont have to do anything to, my pro is still stock and i've built some pretty sick sleds the last few years.

Dragon Turbo

900 modded the f*ck out

Pro-Bone stock

 

[gman086]

The biggest thing I found for lighter riders on the Pro is that you don't sag the rear of the suspension enough so you need to dial in a lot more front track shock preload to unweight the skis for sidehilling. Dial yours in so you have at least an inch of threads showing and the maneuverability factor goes up dramatically for light riders!

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[mountainhorse]

I'm a smaller rider as well... at 155 lbs.

With delivery on the RMK's early this year... Take the time to dial shocks for your weight.

I'd send them in to Holz Racing Products (www.holzracingproducts.com) for revalve for your weight... they really know the WE shocks for this application and can dial them in perfectly.

The handlebars are already pretty narrow at 29" on with the Pro Taper bars...

Skinz Protective Gear and ROX make some great bars for that.. the ROX has the ability to narrow the most of all the bars out there.

RSI makes a shorter bar (I believe 3") for the PRO... but I have not had any success in getting Wade to call back or answer emails for the last 3 months of repeated trying. I hope everything is OK with the business.

The RSI's are close knock-off's of the Pro Taper bar and are a direct swap... you will need to buy new grips and heaters as they really will not come off cleanly.

The Polaris Replacement grip heaters are the easiest Plug-n-play without any splicing or guess work...
Std RMK- 2410777 Heater, Grip, Lo/Med/Hi, Short
Pro RMK- 2411087 Grip, Heater, Lo/Hi

The other thing is the seat is a bit tall... SPG makes a short seat that works very well... makes transitioning from side to side much easier for smaller guys like us.

 

[mountainhorse]

Gman...I found that at my weight that having less front track compliance was counter productive. Too much ski lift on climbing for me and a little stiff when riding while standing in the "pocket".

A lighter rear track spring can come in handy.

From the Polaris Owners manual.

http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-us/OurCompany/Parts-Manuals/PartsManuals/9923345r01_lo_res.pdf

Suspension Adjustments
For riders who weigh 160-220 lbs. (73-100 kg), test ride at factory settings, then make fine-tuning adjustments. See page 50.
For riders outside the 160-220 lbs. (73-100 kg) weight range, adjust the factory-set preload to the following installed lengths as a starting point, then test ride before making fine-tuning adjustments. Do not exceed the minimum and maximum installed length requirements. See page 48.
TIP:If adjustments to the factory-installed springs are not sufficient for riders over 300 lbs. (136 kg), optional heavy springs are available. Please see your POLARIS dealer.

THE PERFECT FIT Suspension Adjustments Fine-Tuning Your Suspension Set-Up
The primary adjustment for overall vehicle balance is RTSS preload. Adjust the factory-set preload to the recommended setting for your weight and then test ride. Additional minor adjustments can then be made to the spring preload to adjust the feel of the vehicle. Do not exceed the minimum and maximum installed length requirements. See page 48.
For more ski lift (transfer), reduce spring preload by increasing the installed length. Rotate the spring 1-2 full turns counter-clockwise (when viewed from bottom). This will enhance maneuverability, mak- ing the snowmobile more “flickable” although it may hinder climbing performance.
For less ski lift (transfer), increase spring preload by reducing the installed length. Rotate the spring 1-2 full turns clockwise (when viewed from bottom). This will improve climbing ability and rider control.
To control the overall balance of the vehicle use the following guideline:
• More rear track shock spring preload increases ski pressure. Less pre- load decreases ski pressure.
• Spring preload can affect bottoming resistance. More preload means less bottoming. Less preload means a softer ride (and more bottom- ing). Both adjustments will affect overall balance and ski pressure.
After adjusting RTSS preload to your satisfaction, the front track shock (FTS) spring preload and independent front suspension (IFS) spring pre- load can also be adjusted. See page 52.

 

[polaris dude]

so should lighter riders have a softer front suspension set up?


Also, one of my shorter/stouter friends always bends the bars in slightly so they fit him better and when making a hard turn he doesn't have to reach as far over to still reach the bar. It looks kinda wierd at first but I think it really helps him out and allows him to keep his weight shifted over further.

 

[gman086]

Gman...I found that at my weight that having less front track compliance was counter productive. Too much ski lift on climbing for me and a little stiff when riding while standing in the "pocket".

A lighter rear track spring can come in handy.

http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-us/OurCompany/Parts-Manuals/PartsManuals/9923345r01_lo_res.pdf

The stock rear shock is valved way too weak so I'm bottoming the suspension hard on even small whooped out trails. A lighter spring is NOT an option for even the lightest of riders if you ride aggressively. Thus my suggestion for changing the front track shock instead. Personally I have been extremely disappointed with the shocks on my Pro and will be getting either the Holz resy's or the Fox Evol R's next season.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[mountainhorse]

I just got this back from a contact at Polaris for parts.

Optional light spring for the PRO...

Polaris Part number, 7043195-133 170# rate.

The free length is 12.9”, add preload to match rider weight.
i.e. rider weighs 170, add 1” preload / rider weighs 85# add ½” preload / rider weighs 127.5 add ¾” preload.

As far as the valving goes... very easy to have worked on. There is nothing really different on a WE shock compared to other non adjustable monotube IFP shocks...

If you find that the sag is sufficient but the rate of compression is too fast... that is more an issue of valving.

IMO, If you are doing big drops or fast whoop sections... you would benefit from an upgrade to a different shock.

GMan... did you have the valving done on your current shocks... you may be surprised with the results. I hope you find a solution that works well for you.
BTW.. what do you weigh?

 

[diamonddave]

I wish I would've tried this sled out when I was over there. I'm really curious if the wider front end (on an IQ) would benefit me.

 

[gman086]

GMan... did you have the valving done on your current shocks... you may be surprised with the results. I hope you find a solution that works well for you.
BTW.. what do you weigh?

There's no chance I'll be satisfied with re-valving the current shocks as I'm coming off Tom's Evol R suspension on my Summit and I ride aggro; I need a progressive shock. I weigh 175 lbs naked so I'm a middleweight - the weight they design these stock suspensions around. Polaris missed the boat for the stock suspension valving if you ask me. I did notice the heavy guys were the ones complaining the least last year which leads me to believe the handling works better with the rear sagged out. My sled handled horribly until I cranked up the front shock preload.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[F-Bomb]

GMAN you should have gone to Bend Memorial Day and rode the demo PRO with the fox suspension...think that would do it for you. If you can hold off you purchase until next winter you can come over to eastern or area or mccall id and test it for yourself...it's nice and far superior to stock FAR FAR

or just trust that I know what I'm talking about and cc those babies up...it's only money and my rep...I'm good with my rep so it's up to you with your money!

 

[RSI]

RSI makes a shorter bar (I believe 3") for the PRO... but I have not had any success in getting Wade to call back or answer emails for the last 3 months of repeated trying. I hope everything is OK with the business.

The RSI's are close knock-off's of the Pro Taper bar and are a direct swap... you will need to buy new grips and heaters as they really will not come off cleanly.

Eric,
Called you right back and never heard back from your end. On you my friend.

E-mails? What address?

We are here and kicken but. I would reccomend our 5" Rise Aluminum Handlebar. It will lower the bars 2" for a better center of gravity and rider ergonomics. This is the same bar Chris Burandt, Dan Adams, and Phil Yribar use. You stock Mt Bar bill bolt right on as well as your stock controls.

We reccomend our hooks and 7" grips. Our hooks offer more grips surface and dont snag on your pack. Our Hi Power Grip Heaters will keeps your hands plenty toasty too.

PM us for the SNOWEST forum member 10% discount code..
Hope this helps,

http://www.rsiracing.com/product_in...d=238&osCsid=2fe78b2521da7382f03e4c07081d1988

Thank you,
RSI

 

[turbo daryl]

i am 5'8" 140lbs. i ride my set up stock with the skis pigeon toed in maybe a degree or two to make it a bit easier to kick up onto one ski. also suggest loosing up the clamp holding the handle bars in place and finding a comfortable position for yourself and then tightening it back down. i find the the taller i can stand the better control i have. I like to stand with my toes just barely inside the stir-ups. I actually considered putting a 1 or 2" riser on the handle bars but ended up getting used to the stock setup.

honestly just ride the **** out of it. These stock sleds are amazing and after a few goes you will have your riding stance and what not adjusted to where you need to be. if you want some extra tips and tricks buy a movie called schooled. Below is a link to there ad on youtube. Buy the actual video. Start using their tricks and you will be blown away at the stuff you are riding at the end of next season on this sled.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMTQ-W5qU3c