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900 polaris crank Kit.

900polman

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
k broke off pto end of my crank off today. any sugestions on who to have fix it? can just the end be replaced or do i have to buy a whole crank ?Is it worth my time to go 975 or stay 900? Thanks
 
Get ahold of Indydan, he can take care of you and with a 3 year warranty on his crank assemblies thats who I'd go with. As for 900 or 975 it pretty much depends on what you want to run for fuel? 975 is a race fuel motor not pump and is about a 1800.00 top end kit, 975 does rip though, it all boils down to how much you want to spend.
 
That sucks! How many miles? 05 or 06?

Maybe call Allsport Polaris and see how much a new crank with a tripple bearing kit is.
 
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900

05 900 1400 miles. always ran perfect. all slp damn thing. didnt get a vib or anything. backed off the throttle got back into it and that was the end. dropped it in the bottom. The worst is my buddy towed me ot on his m8 cat. now i eat crow 4 awhile.
 
indy dan

thanks guys. looks like indy dan it is when mu funds are up . anyo ne havn any probs with then after bigger crank is installed?
 
First belt (came with the sled) blew at 320mi or so... dont' know what kind of abuse it had with the previous owner though.

2nd belt lasted the rest of that season, kinda roasted it on those rough spring rides towards the end of the season.

Got ~250mi on a Gates Xtreme belt and it's working well so far.
 
Dan's crank is a great setup. For comparison, my buddy bought a brand new 2008 M1000 he was showing me the other day. My 900 vibrates significantly less than his M1000 does.

I set the torque stops right on mine the other day (dealer had them butted up against the motor) and now the 900 doesn't even transmit as much vibration as it did last year and last year was an improvement over stock.

It's REAL smooth now ;)
 
I would go with the new Polaris crank. They have made the PTO end bigger, to 32MM I think.

For about $900.00 you get a new crank, new drive clutch, a 3211115 drive belt, new clutch bolt and all gaskets, crank seals and o-rings.
 
Indy Dan for sure...

It's not just a matter of replacing the crank... most of the cases are out of spec and/or damaged when the crank goes.
 
I know you are in the US but you get all that for $900. so what is it work to get the bottom end done at a dealership? indydan aprox how much$ and going with what I read indy dan is better.
 
how many belts have you blown on this sled? Just wondering how long mine is going to last, Ive never blown a belt on mine since i got it with 450 miles

Happyfast, I've got a couple thousand miles on my '06 900 and no issues so far. As a matter of fact, I checked my crank run-out last year in Sept.(2007) and it was .002. Checked it again last week and it was still at .002. I'm not worried about my crank at all. I will say, that I am quite anal about clutch maintenance, though. I replace the bushings in my clutch weights twice, if not three times a season depending on the miles I ride.
 
belts

blew 3 belts in the first 200 miles. dlr reset runout/alignment and and ive ran the same new style belt sence. never had a problem with belts after that. was going to chang it just for insurance this week but dlr didnt have one. ive had the clutch off to repair torque stop and went by team recomendations on restall that i got off of snow west. constantly check torque.
 
There are many that have had Zero problems with their 900's, both 2005 and 2006

BUT

There are many that did... some horrible. And most of these are wrecked, have had regular maint and still cant keep multiple cranks in the sled.

I've given my point of view on this in many other post so I wont beat it to death here... the factory made some that had "good" alignment and some that did not.

Polman, a lot of dealers tell people that they "set the alignment" but there is no way to do that on the 900's and 755's ...these sleds have no ability to adjust the alignment built into the design other than the belt deflection adjustment built into the team secondary. Much different than the 600/700/800 IQ-RMK's design that IS adujstable (the edge sleds too)

In fact, I met a gentleman that got 1600 miles out of his 2005 900 on the 080 belt.. he had a good one.

It's funny to see the two sides of the coin presented on here. People that have had Zero problems with their 900 find it hard to believe that so many are having BIG troubles and those with Big troubles with the 900's cant belive that others are having no issues.

Because I have seen the horrible way that these sleds fail in regards to cranks, I recommend that only the 3211115 belt be used, a good clutch setup and gearing is used, 2006 or Compfusions mounts are used (Comps are far and away the best), and the clutches are set up for spacers, balanced and kept in top running condition. Some will still break cranks... blown belts seem to be the kiss of death for these and usually dont fail right when the belt blows, the cranks are severly weakend when the belt blows and fails sometime after that...some dont need a blown belt at all.

I have personally been exposed to 900's, that the dealers, under warranty, could not keep cranks in... There was one that went thru 6 cranks in 2 years (4 of those complete crate motor assemblies, 1 new crank/case, 1 new crank alone) ... all under warranty... they finally had the chassis (bulkead/tunnel) assembly replaced with the last crate motor and the problem went away and he now has 2500 miles on the sled since... with zero problems related to the engine and drivetrain.

Happyfast and HighVelocity... your sleds sound like units that were in spec... That is AWESOME!!... Make sure to keep the maint up on it. have the clutch balanced for good measure... I still, IMO, firmly believe that the 3211115 belt is the best available of all Polaris and aftermarket belts and should be part of any "preservation program" with the 900's to keep them running.

OH.. and the problem that seems to be rearing its head.... PTO side Jackshaft bearings are starting to go and taking out the aluminum chassis support with it.
 
belts

The 80 belt is what i had so much trouble with. just coming apart. after installing the 15 i never had any prob. the engine has never seen over 8000 rpm and never reved due to blown belt. Till now that is. I never did have clutch ballanced. question is will i be ok with new crank from dan with new cases. I realy like my 900. awsome power and hard to beat in the power and on the hill. Like many I have thousands into suspension and vents and have a good sled now. I would like to keep it if i can trust it when im done.
 
mountainhorse, I know the 900 has it's share of crank issues (just like the old 800's), so on top of the good advice you've already given (1115 belt - which I run, mounts, etc), all I can say is really, really keep an eye on the clutch weight bushings. The sheer weight of the levers needed on torquey, big twins is very hard on the bushings. I'll change mine two to three times a season - relatively cheap insurance. It's no guarantee I'll never suffer a failure, but it can't hurt. Another thing I do is check crank run-out pre-season as well as pretty much any time I've got the primary off during the season. I did this with my '01 800 RMK religiously and actually averted a wreck because of it. Found run-out at .008" one time, tore down the engine and found the PTO bearing starting to fail (very rough). Rebearinged the crank and good to go. If not caught, that crank would've failed for sure and as you well know, a much more costly repair bill.

Back to the 900's though, I found another issue this year during my preseason checks. The front engine support was broke in two right where the right/front mount bolts to it (comp's mounts). It is a very weak area of the support because it is notched out to allow clearance from the steering drag link. Something else for us 900 owners to monitor. I built my own new support out of 1" X 3" aluminum flat bar. It took a while, but I guarantee this one won't break.
 
I would go with the new Polaris crank. They have made the PTO end bigger, to 32MM I think.

For about $900.00 you get a new crank, new drive clutch, a 3211115 drive belt, new clutch bolt and all gaskets, crank seals and o-rings.

I find it hard to believe that you can get all of that for $900.00 considering Polaris quoted me $900.00 for just the crank, and 32mm? Isn't Indydan's a 33mm? I still think Indydan's is the way to go, thinking price wise you can't get all the factory parts, crank, clutch, belt, bolt and gaskets for $900.00 the price is double that, now you can get all that for I believe $1995.00 threw Indydan and thats assembled because case work more than likely will need to be done in this instance and will be done right by someone who nows their chit and Indydan's 3 year warranty you will not get from Polaris maybe a 6 month warranty max so as said above Indydan would be the best way to go.
 
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First belt (came with the sled) blew at 320mi or so... dont' know what kind of abuse it had with the previous owner though.

2nd belt lasted the rest of that season, kinda roasted it on those rough spring rides towards the end of the season.

Got ~250mi on a Gates Xtreme belt and it's working well so far.

Still glad to hear that belt is working good for you, Have you had the time to compare measurements from the Gates and Polaris belts to see how close they are? I still have a bunch of these belts and they are going faster then I can keep them in stock.
 
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