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800 update break in

I talked to my mechanic about what Polaris reccomended for the break in and he told me to pre-mix a pint of the blue semi-syn with a full tank. He also never told me about the VES gold plus. We finally got enough snow to do some road riding and a bit of boondocking in the cascades last week so I took 'er out and put on a hundred miles or so friday and saturday.

While I was out I was talking to other dragon owners and they said they were told to premix a quart and they brought me up to speed on the gold-plus. I tried searching for topics on the boards here, but I didnt have any luck... should I be worried at all? What have others been doing about the gold in the oil tank...siphoning, mixing gold with gold plus?

Sorry to bring it up, I am sure its been discussed already, I just cannot find any posts.

Thanks,
Brandon
 
I have always been told all Poo oils are compatable. I used a turkey baster to siphone out the majority of my old oil. If it were me I would pull out most of the Gold and fill with the new Gold Plus oil. BTW how did it run ? I'm a good 3-4 weeks from riding.
 
Mine ran great! I rode another 09 saturday with the update and it was running very well too, but there was an 08 in the group whose sled was really burbling while first accelerating and not keeping the power like ours were around 6 grand. He was thinking he needs his module reflashed.

So Stewy...I have no complaints as of right now about the update. Hope you get to ride soon!
 
[/QUOTE]The are using JASO FD now. Leave it up to the countries over seas to come up with better rating systems. :rolleyes:[/QUOTE]

Yeah...funny how that works out. Thanks Monte, that is exactly what I was looking for.
I am kind of pissed my dealer told me a pint instead of a quart...I guess ill run the 3rd tank at 40:1...
 
a quart of oil sounds excessive, i've never done more than a pint. all polaris oils do not mix together properlly. it is okay to run blue in your gas tank and gold in your oil tank for the fact that the oils do not meet each other until the engine where it is burned. if you mix blue oil with gold oil in your oil tank then the molecules are likely to ball up (synthetic mixing with non synthetic) and this will lead to a lean issue followed by a burn down. if you guys are a looking for a good oil to run, then i would suggest redline or blue marble, polaris gold oil or gold plus oil are some of the worst oils on the market.
 
Yeah, I quart sounds like too much to me too. Can anyone verify the amount. i forget what it was. I know there are a lot of different opinions on oil for break in. I've always just broke my stuff in with full synthetic. Maybe it takes longer maybe it doesn't, but it has always seemed to work. I know some newer 2-stroke dirt bikes specify synthetic even for break in. I guess what I'm trying to say is that you should be fine with whatever you have in there. I think the oil in the gas tank is just a precaution in case there are any air bubbles in the injection lines anyway.
 
A quart in the tank in addition to the oil injection...I dont have time to do the math but you better carry a case of plugs with you. After the last rebuild on mine last year I went thru 6 sets of plugs in no time at all. The next day with more gas she was fine.

Some of the new ratings have to do with enviromental issues such as smell and bidegradable properties etc. They dont always have anything to do with better lubrication.
 
break in oil

The official Polaris advertising blurb on VES Gold Plus is that it offers "increased engine protection characteristics, substantially reduced smoke and odor, and greatly reduced starter recoil pull effort in sub-zero temperatures". WOW!! Miracle oil! and at the same price as VES Gold. And I thought it was just a new label.
Seriously, the quart of blue oil added to the tank should cause no concerns. As was noted earlier, it enters the combustion chamber independently from the injector oil. As it is semi synthetic (theoretically not as slippery as full synthetic) it will help seat the rings quicker. If one took the time to break in the machine slowly it would be ok on Gold Plus but human nature says hardly no one is going to break in a sled slow and easy.
Deepdiver's right; bring extra plugs. Keep in mind that Polais is going to be very conservative on this deal. The last thing they need is a bunch of sleds down on power because the rings did not seat. As I said, human nature dictates that once you get the sled up on the hill as soon as possible you gotta check it out!!
 
IMO, a full quart in the tank is too much for breakin on these CFI engines. Remember, more oil leans out the mixture. These things are set to be pretty lean from the get-go. If you run lots of oil in the tank with an ethanol blend fuel, you could have a recipe for trouble...

One cup per tank is more along the lines of what I prefer. YMMV.
 
Yeah I understand that there is no concern with the premixed oil reacting with the oil that will be injected...I should have been more specific in my first post.

I was curious if I could just mix the new Gold Plus with the Gold that was still in my injection tank or if I should siphon the old gold out.

Thanks for the input guys, I was kinda worried that my mechanic misled me on the premix ratio.
 
Because I'm cheap I'd run the tank with Gold down as far as you can and then fill with Plus; unless you have another machine not as fussy that you could remove the Gold from the 800 and use it in.
 
A quart in the tank in addition to the oil injection...I dont have time to do the math but you better carry a case of plugs with you. After the last rebuild on mine last year I went thru 6 sets of plugs in no time at all. The next day with more gas she was fine.

Some of the new ratings have to do with enviromental issues such as smell and bidegradable properties etc. They dont always have anything to do with better lubrication.

Correct. I searched the net for the chart, but could only find it in PDF form and am having a hard time getting it to appear in the correct manner. I did find this from fellow snowester Burwell that pretty much sums up the chart.

I have been a $$$Red Line "Racing" 2 Stroke oil$$$$ user and know for a fact the oil has saved my engine more than once. I have had goods experience using IPONE 2 stroke oils in dirt track sprint cars (2 stokes) but have had poor luck with it in a sled. Phillips 66 syenthitic is good for my wifes sled, kids sled & loaner. Fairly cheap and power valves are not an issue in 2000 miles +....
I was givin this info from another fellow sledder who is wiser than myself because it is his info that he was kind enough to share with me.

ISO-EGD & Jaso FD are the highest certifications 2 stroke oils can achieve, neither Redline nor Amsoil Intercepter meet those certifacations, Amsoil Dominator does however.

Many oils do meet it: Klotz, Arctic Blue, Legend, to name a few.
Here's a chart with explainations of the types, pay attention to the last paragraph on oils

Specifications for Two Stroke Oil

NMMA TC-W3 – two cycle water-cooled, third generation. TC-W3 obsoletes TC-W & TC-WII. Oils with this spec do not use metal based additives, and are ashless. This is an outboard specific spec.

API TC – only API spec established for two cycle engines. It regulates lubricity, detergency, ash content & pre-ignition. Oils with this spec are typically using metal based, ash producing additives.

JASO FA – original spec established regulating lubricity, detergency, initial torque, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.

JASO FB – increased lubricity, detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FA.

JASO FC – lubricity and initial torque requirements same as FB, however far higher detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FB.

JASO FD - same as FC with far higher detergency requirement.

ISO-L-EGB – same tests and requirements as JASO FB.

ISO-L-EGC – same tests and slightly higher detergency requirements (piston varnish) as JASO FC.

ISO-L-EGD – same tests and requirements as JASO FD.

• National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA) is based in the USA.
• American Petroleum Institute (API) is based in the USA.
• Japanese Automobile Standards Organization (JASO) is based in Japan.
• International Standards Organization (ISO) is based in Europe.

These specs are established by different governing bodies located in various parts of the world. They all serve the same purpose; to give consumers a quantifiable way to measure the quality of 2 stroke oil.

What does all this mean for your snowmobile, dirt bike or PWC?
Most OEM 2 stroke oils fall in either the JASO FB/ISO-L-EGB (Good) or JASO FC/ISO-L-EGC/API TC (Better) category, although the container and the owners manual will never actually list an oil spec. OEM’s prefer just to recommend their private label product and tell you there is no known equivalent. It is easy not to have a “known” equivalent if you do not look for one.

The toughest spec currently obtainable for two stroke oil is JASO FD/ISO-L-EGD. Any oil listing an JASO FD/ISO-L-EGD rating is preferred for a snowmobile, dirt bike or PWC. Common sense should tell you, using an oil (including OEM oil) that does not list a rating usually means it does not obtain these ratings, otherwise why would they not want to list on their product.
 
One quart to ten gallons is 40:1. As far as the premix goes, I would,nt hesitate to much at running one full quart however you will definately be running oil rich. IMO not really a bad thing other than gumming up your power valves and fouling plugs. The key is to get a couple heat cycles on a fresh motor with plenty of lubrication. This will allow your rings to seat properly without added friction!
Actually now that I think about it 40:1 is pretty damn rich, I would probably only run a pint which would be 80:1. That's my opinion though not fact from polaris.
 
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Oil-rich, fuel-lean. 40:1 premix with an oil pump that's also probably set something like that is going to create a lean condition. I bet that's why lots of guys with the update are having bogging/stumbling issues and flat spots.
 
IMO, a full quart in the tank is too much for breakin on these CFI engines. Remember, more oil leans out the mixture. These things are set to be pretty lean from the get-go. If you run lots of oil in the tank with an ethanol blend fuel, you could have a recipe for trouble...

One cup per tank is more along the lines of what I prefer. YMMV.

How do you figure it creates a lean condition? I don't think so dude! Too much fuel (i.e. gasoline) will create a lean condition because it is washing all your lubrication away. I have never heard of too much oil creating a lean condition. If I am wrong please explain.
 
How do you figure it creates a lean condition? I don't think so dude! Too much fuel (i.e. gasoline) will create a lean condition because it is washing all your lubrication away. I have never heard of too much oil creating a lean condition. If I am wrong please explain.

What I think he is getting at is all the extra oil in the tank will displace fuel going through an injector or jet. You'll still be getting the same total amount of liquid, but now instead of 100% fuel, it will be a percentage of fuel and oil.
 
O.K., I get that! In theory sounds possible. I'm still skeptical though as there is still going to be plenty of lubrication. The only thing I see happening is that you will not have a complete burn during combustion, causing a whole lot more smoke, colder engine temps, and fouled plugs.
 
Ditchrider is correct, the higher percentage of oil in the fuel tank the less (Gasoline) getting into the combustion chamber......... means leaner condition.

I would also be concerned that a too high oil ratio in the fuel can cause problems for the fuel injectors.
 
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