800 engine removal

[LT]

so finally got home from a summer in alaska and time to get tearing into my sled.

im going to start ripping into my sled and take my motor out to get some work done to it and wondering if anybody has some tips/tricks to make the whole procedure go faster/easier.

im pretty sure ill get it out but im sure i could use some help to make it easier. ive done a lot of work on older chassis like the pro x but not a WHOLE lot on the iq.

THX!

 

[The Bob]

Service manual is nice. But if no manual make sure you disconnect everything before yanking it. Mark your wires and harness's, watch your injectors. There is also a thread in the HCS IQ forum that is pinned at the top with alot of things you should look at when removed.

Link:

http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=440326

 

[LT]

thanks tblade for the heads up. ill start unplugging and pulling and im sure everything will go just fine!

 

[AndrettiDog]

I've had to all but remove the motor to put in a new steering post. Make sure you take some pictures. They are sometimes more valuable than the manaul to show where stuff goes. I needed the pictures to get it together right. Be careful with that ECM.

 

[Kraven]

so finally got home from a summer in alaska and time to get tearing into my sled.

im going to start ripping into my sled and take my motor out to get some work done to it and wondering if anybody has some tips/tricks to make the whole procedure go faster/easier.

im pretty sure ill get it out but im sure i could use some help to make it easier. ive done a lot of work on older chassis like the pro x but not a WHOLE lot on the iq.

THX!

Get the $10 tool from your local auto parts store so you can disconnect the fuel lines.

Check your engine alignment prior to engine removal, so if it does require "slotting' of the brackets, you can address it easily enough.

If you're going to adjust the oil, it's a whole lot easier to do prior to setting the engine in place.

My sled stock was 37:1 ratio, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns looser and it's 57:1 or so for the last 1500+ miles.

 

[NapaMatt]

Make sure u have a GOOD Torx set! you will be using them alot...


Also a nice 9/16 gearwrench makes easy work out of the engine nuts...


my .02

 

[sevenhundo]

It actually pretty easy just take your time . I just yanked my 08 700 didnt take much time at all. Waiting for the parts took the longest. Just make sure you mark what wires go were what plug wires go to what plug. And I found out a cool trick for the oil line instead of having to bleed the system when you un hook the oil line plug both ends tight and when putting it back together uncap let the oil flow into the line before putting together over flowin the line then sqeeze them together and tighten. no bubbles at all alittle messy but not to bad I did this at the oul filter. good luck if you have the money buy a lift cause my lower back still hurts. P.S If you have beers taking it apart make sure you have beers putting it back together or it wont make sense trust me

 

[GKR]

Good one ^^^^

 

[LT]

It actually pretty easy just take your time . I just yanked my 08 700 didnt take much time at all. Waiting for the parts took the longest. Just make sure you mark what wires go were what plug wires go to what plug. And I found out a cool trick for the oil line instead of having to bleed the system when you un hook the oil line plug both ends tight and when putting it back together uncap let the oil flow into the line before putting together over flowin the line then sqeeze them together and tighten. no bubbles at all alittle messy but not to bad I did this at the oul filter. good luck if you have the money buy a lift cause my lower back still hurts. P.S If you have beers taking it apart make sure you have beers putting it back together or it wont make sense trust me

alright hundo! sounds good...haha. thanks for the tips guys.

i did take some pics and also had some masking tape and a sharpy to lable what plugs into what. should make things easier to put back together.

 

[LT]

My sled stock was 37:1 ratio, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns looser and it's 57:1 or so for the last 1500+ miles.

how do you figure out what the ratio is kraven?? is my 800 gonna be 37:1 as well?

Make sure u have a GOOD Torx set! you will be using them alot...


Also a nice 9/16 gearwrench makes easy work out of the engine nuts...


my .02

you are exactly right matt! torx is all over....and i have one 9/16 gearwrench that i bought specifically for takin the engine nuts off. haha

 

[Kraven]

OIL PUMP RATIO & ADJUSTMENT

how do you figure out what the ratio is kraven?? is my 800 gonna be 37:1 as well?



you are exactly right matt! torx is all over....and i have one 9/16 gearwrench that i bought specifically for takin the engine nuts off. haha

The oil ratio is something you would need to know from a prior ride.

40:1 is 1 quart of oil to 10 gallons of fuel

22 oz oil to 10 gallons of fuel is 57:1 +/-

Most of the CFI (but not all) are pig rich on oil, only way to find out is to check it,

If you haven't checked it, look at my TECH TIPS for 600/700/800 CFI's & BEST BANG for the BUCK MODS thread which is located at the top of this IQ section under the "INCREASING YOUR IQ"

There's a pic of the oil pump arm and alignment marks there. Use the marks as a starting point and adjust from there.

Hope this helps

 

[LT]

alright guys here are some pics of my sled. i really enjoy looking at other ppls picture threads whatever the topic maybe.

im not doing anything super crazy this yr but just a lot of maintainence stuff...ill keep the pictures coming as i go for whoever is interested

my sled is a 09 assault.

things done:
FU running boards
Zbroz a arms
powdercoated rails and spindels
polished tunnel
SLP exhaust system

things that NEED to be done still:
motor going to carls cycle for full cyl/case porting (shipping out monday)
power addiction heads
injectors sent to witch hunter for full cleaning and flow/spray pattern check
clean exhaust valves
all new bearings on jackshaft/driveshaft
holz chaincase drop
new fuel filter
new fenders and nosepan
powdercoat the front bumper and got a COBE rear bumper coming
150in CE 2.5 track
7tooth avid drivers
MMP freedom axle with 9in wheels
re polish the tunnel
primary clutch going to indy dan for balancing
all shocks rebuilt
change out my bent lower a arm
rob heeb's better bars....mine are bent on both sides
clean throttle bodies

 

[LT]

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[LT]

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[LT]

now that everything is out ive been doing some snooping around and i found a few of these....3-4 i think in various locations around the bulkhead


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also found this....


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this should be re weldable im guessing. dont really want to buy a new one. its not bent...just cracked

now that the good ol polaris 800 is out...lets take a look through the exhaust ports shall we??


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well what do ya know!!? mag side piston has lots of scoring. pto side looks good. they are still the stock single ring piston. parts were backed up really bad and the dealer around me could never get any...is what they said.

 

[LT]

what the....???!

srry guys...idk why those last pics arent showin up

 

[milehighassassin]

You added the pictures as attachments instead of photos. You can edit if you like.

I would get those welds fixed while the motor is out. I have noticed a little paint flake on my black support bar as well. No cracking yet, but there is clearly some flexing, no breaks in the welds I can see on my Assault.

 

[LT]

You added the pictures as attachments instead of photos. You can edit if you like.

I would get those welds fixed while the motor is out. I have noticed a little paint flake on my black support bar as well. No cracking yet, but there is clearly some flexing, no breaks in the welds I can see on my Assault.

yup i plan on getting those cracks fixed and everything takin care of while everything is out...makes things lots easier.

how do i fix those pics?? i did the same thing on my earlier post

 

[LT]

so i just ordered up some intake vents from fire n ice and a slp high flow air horn kit and my question is would gutting the airbox help along with the intake mods? or does a gutted airbox cause more problems than its worth?