670x help

[skiller1234]

Looking for a little advice on a 98 670x. Relatively new rider looking to make some simple changes for ridability. Honestly I was the weak link in my group last year and need to step it up a bit. Thinking a riser and new skis would be the first step - sled is still stock. Opinions are all over the place on skis - any strong feelings here? Heck- anyone have any they are looking to get rid of?

2" hb riser reasonable? Should I go higher - I'd rather not have to lengthen the cables..

Colo rider - lots out there I know! I got creamed riding out of SLO last year, riding timid and need better sled control..


thanks for the advice all!

 

[newfiedoo]

depends on how you like to ride...bar riser depends on your height...i have a 99 x and put a 6"riser on it and and a powermadd pivot to allow me to roll the bars forward love it only had to buy a throttle ext.and just re-routed the rest and worked fine....as for skis i went to the new ski-doo pilots and like them.The biggest improvement i found was a skid relocate 3.5" back 1.5"down and put a 151 on it.....totally different sled. Just my 2 cents.....good luck ....great sled

 

[Sturgis Sledder]

Rip out the sway bar, go to a 151", port the track (it may be mental but I think it makes the track turn easier), if you extend the bars, make sure you have a stronger than stock steering post, get new skis, get it clutched and geared properly and hang with the big dogs.

 

[NoSecondChances]

What was the "weak link" though? Are you saying rider or sled capability? If rider ability, then nothing is going to fix it but time and experience. If sled capability, lots of things you can do to make that 670 go a little better and handle like a dream. If you're trying to hang with 08 M1000's and brand new big iron, unfortunately you will need a bigger sled.

Find a good set of take off precision skis or go with the SLP powder pro's IMO. The PP's will help your sidehilling ability, and are cheaper than the Simmons. Be aware the PP's are not a great trail ski so if you are trying to keep up with the XP's going mach chicken on the trail ride in, don't expect the PP's or the Simmons to do it, you will be in the rhubarb. The precision is a decent trail ski and a decent powder ski, just not stellar at one or the other. Get the precision 6.9's, not the 5.7's.

Longer track or a little more gear for the deep powder if you have the 136 on there still. Raise the seat about 4" and yours knees will thank you, and go at least 4" riser if you are over 5'8" tall. I'm 5'11.5" and I love my 6" riser, puts the bars at the perfect height. I use an ATV bar that has a 1" rise in it as well and its perfect for me when I'm standing. You should really sit on a few sleds that have risers before you buy one, head down to the local AC dealer and sit on a new Cat with the adjustable riser and move it up and down, see what the different heights feel like, standing and sitting. If you're a really active mountain rider and mostly standing, a taller riser might be the best for you, if you sit a lot more, the taller risers feel like ape hangers when trail riding. Rox makes an adjustable one, might be worth the extra $$. That 670 will do alright if tuned right. Here is a picture of one of my mods, this is my little lightweight (487 lbs with 1/2 tank of fuel) 670. Tube aluminum rear chassis, welded and gussetted bulkhead, dropped and rolled, lightweight seat and hood, shorty RV cover, premix, Jaws twins. Runs like a dream and keeps with the 800's.

 

[1998summitx670]

I had some issues my first ride last year with my new 98 Summit x and being a new rider sort of... Asked the same question you did. Probably got the same answers.

I had stock skis, 151 track, sway bar out, and 2 inch riser for my first ride. My sled was ALL over the place, darting on trail and off. We were riding in Wyoming early in the year and there wasn't much base. I was getting stuck all the time because of handling issues and poor riding and off trail riding.... it almost sucked... and definitely wore me OUT.

Got home and got on here to ask the same thing. They advised to pull the sway bar, get skis, adjust torsion strap, shocks, etc. I got Simmons Flex skis and adjusted the shocks (front and rear). Checked the sway bar and found out it didn't have one already. Checked torsion strap and I don't think it can be adjusted on this sled...

On my second trip, it was night and day difference! Seriously. Yes, I read numerous other threads and responses and was unsure if skis could really help... but it does for this sled. The simmons skis eliminated the darting and greatly improved the handling On and Off trail . 100 times more fun than the first ride. Kept up with the advanced riders on 2008 sleds. I am not saying you have to get simmons (I would recommend them) but get something better than stock. I found a used set for 250-300 with new carbides. Play with the shocks and learn to shift your weight better. This older machine can keep up but the handling isn't there like the new sleds.

 

[Van Zee]

Everybody kind of has the same ideas as me, but I will tell you what I ran on my
98 670 and somethings I wish I would have:
4" adjustable riser, be careful because the steering posts are a little weak
simmons in the narrow stance (cannot remember if you can adjust it but def. be narrow as possible)
no sway bar
roll chain case for better atack angle and to get a 2" paddle to fit under better if you decide to go or already have gone with a longer then 136" track
144X2 (as to my knowledge a 16" wide will fit so that is what I would go with)
Cannot remember what I ran for clutch setup but there are some great ones out there for this sled I am sure some people have great ideas for you on that
aftermarket can or just gut your stock one or jaws twin pipes worked great on these sleds
gut your air box
I homemade a mesh hood for it, its amazing how much those hoods weigh so that was a huge improvement in weight, I would recommend looking into something along that line, it didn't cost me much to do although I would have put more time into it if I redid it because in real light powder i would ice up my carbs which sucked, so maybe look into a diamond s hood

Those are some of my ideas. I do not know how much you are looking at spending or what exactly you want to do for sure.

 

[skiller1234]

Thanks for the suggestions.

What does it mean to port the track?

I'll probably go with an adjustable riser, and whatever affordable newer ski set I can find. Longer track etc will have to come a bit later.

As for the riding - you are right - I was trying to keep up with either newer machines or better riders last year, did ok except when we got caught in some deeper powder off the trail. Seemed like I sank like a stone, and could do nothing but plow straight ahead - all while watching those fancy new sleds gliding around on top like they were on air.

Trade off is that once we hit the flats - I was off! That little sled sure can run...

 

[tolleysummitx]

my 670

i hav a 99 670 mod..if you want power..get some snowchargers psi twin pipes team helix roller clutch..haha n my rise is 8 inches n im only 5'9

 

[Van Zee]

I know there use to be plenty of topics on porting the track on here. It basically consists of taking a holesaw (size your choice, 1"-1.25" is usually pretty good) then drill 2-3 holes in the center of your track in between each row of lugs. This saves you the weight of the rubber you cut out obviously and more importantly keeps the snow from building up in you skid which saves a lot of weight. These sleds did like to plow through the powder a lot because their attack angle isn't the best and they are pretty heavy sleds so to help that some would be a drop and roll in the chaincase and/or skid set back. This makes the angle of attack on your track better allowing it to crawl ontop of the snow instead of trenching through it. Have fun they are still one of the most bulletproof hp motors I've ever been around.

 

[wildcard28]

All the guys on here know what they are talking about, My buddies got me back in to sledding after about 9 years of not riding was invited to go out with a couple buddies who were brothers who rode a 97 summit 670x motor w/ 151 and an 02 summit 800 w/151 and I rode one or there wifes sleds a 98 summit670 w/ 136 first time I got to crack the throttle on that sled WOW was alot different than the last sled I rode years before even though I had no experiece and got stuck all day had a blast . So I got a good deal on a one owner Artic cat powder special 580 and have riden it for 2 years now have had fun but done abit of powerturns and learning the balance point on this sled but still not much you can do with that sled with power gain so when my Buddie bought a 97 Summit with a 780 tripple mod w M10 suspension, he offered me his 97 Summit w/670x and 136 extended to 151 but had the 136 reinstalled on it when I purchased it so he could put his 151 on the 780 mod sled . So I have spent most all summit adding things to it alot of what I have read on the guys are suggesting on this thread and others I have read. haven`t rode it since I purchased it but rode it with my buddies before and always liked it. Hope all this stuff works. for example if you stand on the sled in the shop on the concrete floor and stand on the runningboard and try to pull it on its side when it had the stock handle bars ,widened ski stance had before (42 1/2) ,compared to the narrower stock Summit ski stance of 38inch, sway bar removed and the 5 1/2 inch bar riser , Rev Seat conversion, Oil Injection removed, bogie wheels removed, homemade 2 wheel kit In the rear skid feels like a completely different sled just on the shop floor can pull it over almost effortless and I am 5ft 10 and weigh 140lbs. with the artic cat had to reif on the bars to do this and the summit when stock was alot easier that the Cat ,cant wait to feel the difference on the snow and with the Custom Running boards, and a 153x15x2.25 track Drop and Roll ,(had when purchased) 21/43 gearing ,3inch pitch Wahl Bros extrovert drivers and just need to port the track only 2 holes in the center nothing radical ,should take me where I want to go , nothing radical want to learn the sled first and not overdue it. the comfort of the raised seat is really feels good on the back even just setting in the shop . I`m sure will make a total difference than the 580 Arctic Cat. still have that sled Wife will ride it until we get her another Doo. Have Fun.

 

[357454]

670 x

The stock bars on the 670 are a little short for taller riders however they will work, as was mentioned on an earlier thread the steering column is prone to breaking so be careful about going too high. For better climbing switch to a 47 degree helix, you might not be able to out high mark the newer sleds but will have just as much fun and not that far below them. I installed simmons skis on my 99 and really liked them, they are currently on my brothers 2001. One important thing to remember is fill your oil tank up before every ride, there is an outlet hose on the back of the tank (l@ 2/3 level) that lubricates the gear drive for the rotate valve. In our group of riders we have had Five 670 summits, they were and are some of the best and most reliable Ski Doos ever built.

 

[357454]

670 x

I just re-read your post where you mentioned eliminating the Oil Injection, do you have a reservoir that lubricates the rotary valve gear and bushings; if not you will need one other wise you will have a failure.

 

[banditpowdercoat]

What was the "weak link" though? Are you saying rider or sled capability? If rider ability, then nothing is going to fix it but time and experience. If sled capability, lots of things you can do to make that 670 go a little better and handle like a dream. If you're trying to hang with 08 M1000's and brand new big iron, unfortunately you will need a bigger sled.

Find a good set of take off precision skis or go with the SLP powder pro's IMO. The PP's will help your sidehilling ability, and are cheaper than the Simmons. Be aware the PP's are not a great trail ski so if you are trying to keep up with the XP's going mach chicken on the trail ride in, don't expect the PP's or the Simmons to do it, you will be in the rhubarb. The precision is a decent trail ski and a decent powder ski, just not stellar at one or the other. Get the precision 6.9's, not the 5.7's.

Longer track or a little more gear for the deep powder if you have the 136 on there still. Raise the seat about 4" and yours knees will thank you, and go at least 4" riser if you are over 5'8" tall. I'm 5'11.5" and I love my 6" riser, puts the bars at the perfect height. I use an ATV bar that has a 1" rise in it as well and its perfect for me when I'm standing. You should really sit on a few sleds that have risers before you buy one, head down to the local AC dealer and sit on a new Cat with the adjustable riser and move it up and down, see what the different heights feel like, standing and sitting. If you're a really active mountain rider and mostly standing, a taller riser might be the best for you, if you sit a lot more, the taller risers feel like ape hangers when trail riding. Rox makes an adjustable one, might be worth the extra $$. That 670 will do alright if tuned right. Here is a picture of one of my mods, this is my little lightweight (487 lbs with 1/2 tank of fuel) 670. Tube aluminum rear chassis, welded and gussetted bulkhead, dropped and rolled, lightweight seat and hood, shorty RV cover, premix, Jaws twins. Runs like a dream and keeps with the 800's.

Listen to Him. Ive done pretty much the same to my 670. And its Awesome. best thing, taller seat, Skidoo Pilot 6.9 Ski's and a Pivoting Riser. I have a XP 8" riser on mine, and a REV seat. Perfect height

 

[DWHalverson]

What I used to do on the mod 670s and 670 big bores was just run a line from the top oil port (between the cylinders) down to the bottom one in the lower case. Fill the hose 1/2 to 3/4 full of oil and keep an eye on it and add when needed. This only oils the RV gear and bearings, you will still need to put oil in the gas. Ski-Doo did make a small tank for doing this on the 440 race sleds.

I just re-read your post where you mentioned eliminating the Oil Injection, do you have a reservoir that lubricates the rotary valve gear and bushings; if not you will need one other wise you will have a failure.

 

[Interceptor]

Its been mentioned but to put it short - that stock track has to go FIRST. It is only 1 3/4" lug and 136" long. The S - chassis is super easy to roll the chaincase on and relocate the skid - fairly inexpensive way to fit a 2" 151 or so under it.

 

[Skidoohmx]

I would definately do a drop and roll and skid relocation to put a 151 track on. This would make all the difference in getting around off trail. Second I would get a set of the newer 6.9 pilots. They have a more curved bottom than the simmons and don't cause the heavy steering. Then I would add some bar risers but be careful because the factory post is very week when you start adding much. Some mention removing the sway bar but that sled is so easy to sidehill I wouldn't worry about that. Good luck

 

[Sturgis Sledder]

I think the sled is easier in deeper snow without the sway bar, plus it's an extra pound or 2 off the machine.

 

[snowyo]

d&r and longer track,But deffinately ditch that 30 lb hood,night& day difference

 

[0neoldfart]

670X Mods

That sled still brings a smile to my face. One of the very first things I would do is drop and roll the chaincase - check with SnoStuff or Kinetic - both used to make a kit. Stretch the sled to a 151 with extrovert drivers, run a 90# center track shock spring - reduces trenching big time. Motor: I used a 501 rotary valve set to timing specs of the 96 Mach 1, thicker base gasket, shaved head and recut squish. Do not case port this motor - fuel economy becomes non existant. Left the 44mm Mikuni's alone, save for jetting it down a little bit, and replacing the viton needle and seat with the heavier brass one - your doo dealer will find it in the 93-94 Mach's. This will help the start after rollover or pointing downhill, etc. The heavier needle cleaned up the bottom and mid on rough trails, wouldn't load up (essentially flood). I used insulating spray foam in my steering post, never broke in 7 hard years of riding. If you find a roller secondary with a 47 degree helix, grab it - helps a bunch. ZX driven clutch and jackshaft will fit this sled. Ummmm... lightweight anything you can, 2" drop brackets in rear, lightweight hood, 6.9 Pilot skis are all definite pluses to this sled. If you build a 740 out of it - it'll spank the new 8's, too. Unfortunatley you'll still have a bone crushing ride - wear a kidney belt when you ride. I hope this helps, PM me if you've any questions.

Karl

 

[banditpowdercoat]

I would definately do a drop and roll and skid relocation to put a 151 track on. This would make all the difference in getting around off trail. Second I would get a set of the newer 6.9 pilots. They have a more curved bottom than the simmons and don't cause the heavy steering. Then I would add some bar risers but be careful because the factory post is very week when you start adding much. Some mention removing the sway bar but that sled is so easy to sidehill I wouldn't worry about that. Good luck

All these BUT remove the swy bar, trust me. ANd to stiffen the steering post, need a weelder, cut the top plate off and stuff a solid shaft in tere, re weld top plate on. I have a 8" XP riser on my modified S-2000 shaft. Holding up fune. I carve HARD. Pilot 6.9 ski's are a must. carbide in cent3r, wear bar on ojtside