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2500rpm Idle... ???

M

Motorbreath_

Free Member
Hey guys, I'm really stumped on this. I'll tell you what I ride first.
2011 Polaris Pro RMK 800
Stage 3 SLP kit with Power Commander 5
RKTek replacement pistons
Carls Cycle clutching
and a bunch of other stuff that doesn't really matter

When I bought the sled we put the RKtek pistons in right away.

The previous owner was telling me I had to get the TPS set up. So I brought it to the dealer twice to get this done.. The first time they just hooked the sled up to the computer and said the voltage was fine and gave it back to me.. I told them she still idled high so they took it back in and "adjusted" the idle...

Since then, we have gotten some snow I've noticed the sled is still idling wayy too high (2500 rpm while warm) and over reving to 8400 and flashing detonation.

I made my own tps tool and set the tps within spec. and its still idling too high.

I'm lost now. I don't really know where to go from here.. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Just to double check the process:
1. Disconnected the throttle cable
2. Make sure the idle screw backed out so not touching stop
3. Adjust TPS sensor in closed position to voltage of .698
4. Adjust idle voltage to .930 (this is where I like to start)

Have you synced the PCV with the TPS?
 
wfieldin said:
Just to double check the process:
1. Disconnected the throttle cable
2. Make sure the idle screw backed out so not touching stop
3. Adjust TPS sensor in closed position to voltage of .698
4. Adjust idle voltage to .930 (this is where I like to start)

Have you synced the PCV with the TPS?
Click to expand...

Two problems I just noticed.

One, I didn't disconnect the throttle cable.

Two, I adjusted to .705 for closed position voltage.

I notice you didn't mention the synchronizing screw.

Edit: Yes I did sync the power commander.
 
This is what I went by.

TPS BASELINE RE--SETTING PROCEDURE
The TPS comes set from the factory and should not need any adjustments. If replacing a TPS or resetting the TPS, Polaris has
developed a TPS test kit for aid in setting the Throttle Position Sensor to specification.
1. Assemble your TPS sensor tool (PN 2201519) as per the instructions that came with the tool.
2. Make sure your 9 volt battery is in good condition by inserting the black voltmeter probe from your Fluketmeter in the black
terminal and the red probe into the pink terminal. Voltage should read 4.99 to 5.01 volts. If not, try a new 9 volt battery.
3. Insert the red voltmeter lead into the terminal above the pink wire, and the black meter lead to the terminal above the black
wire. Slowly open throttle and check for smooth voltage change.
NOTE: The Fluke meter will change scales and show O.L. momentarily when throttle is opening.
4. Remove the throttle cable in order to take the slack out of the cable.
5. Back off the idle lock nut counterclockwise and then back out the idle adjuster (A) counterclockwise until the screw tip (B)
separates from the adjusted lever tab.
6. Turn the synchronization screw (C) counterclockwise until the synchronization lever is touching the synchronization screw
hole (D) tab.
7. Remove the connector from the TPS on the throttle body and install TPS sensor tool on to the TPS.
8. Place a shop towel under the throttle body incase you loose grip on the spring or thread a small wire around it if it should fall.
9. Remove the synchronization lever tab spring (E) and gently open and then close the throttle plateswith the throttle, allowing
the plate to close gently. Note the voltage at this point.
10. Insert the synchronization lever tab spring and screw.
11. Turn the synchronization screw clockwise until the volt meter reads the voltage level that you noted in step #8.
12. Loosen screws on the TPS sensor (F).
13. Adjust the TPS sensor until the voltage on the volt meter reads .705 -- .715 volts.
14. Tighten the TPS retaining screws, making sure that the voltage continues to read .705 -- .715 volts.
15. Turn the idle set screw clockwise until the voltage reads .930 volts.
16. Voltage at the yellow terminal should be .920 -- .940 volts at idle. Once the TPS voltage is verified and set, remove the sensor
tool and re--install the TPS harness
 
Unless you know or someone has screwed with the sync I would not worry about it.

Given you are dealing with high idle, I would start the baseline voltage at the lower range, like I said I shoot for .698. When you are moving the TPS is the voltage jumping all over the place or is it easy to get it to stay within range? If so it may be a good idea to replace the TPS, I had to do this on my 11.
 
wfieldin said:
Unless you know or someone has screwed with the sync I would not worry about it.

Given you are dealing with high idle, I would start the baseline voltage at the lower range, like I said I shoot for .698. When you are moving the TPS is the voltage jumping all over the place or is it easy to get it to stay within range? If so it may be a good idea to replace the TPS, I had to do this on my 11.
Click to expand...

The TPS was changed last year. The previous owner said she would only rev to 7800.

When I adjusted it myself it seemed to be working fine. When you say baseline voltage you mean with the sync screw backed off and the spring removed correct?

Would it be ok if I just back off the idle screw?
 
Honestly I don't mess with the synchronization of the throttle bodies with that screw and spring.

I disconnect the throttle cable from the block on the handlebar, back off idle adjuster screw all the way, adjust the TPS sensor to the closed voltage, lock it down, check voltage again to make sure it stayed in the correct range. Adjust idle screw till you see the .930 voltage. Start it up
 
Motorbreath_ said:
read from 6-11 in that procedure. It's part of setting up the TPS.. Apparently. Do you have a proper procedure for this year and model?
Click to expand...

If you messed with the sync screw, pull the throttle bodies and do it on the bench. This procedure is a very instrumental part of fueling. This may be your high idle problem, not sync'd correctly. If you have not done this before find someone who has, it's not rocket science but must be performed correctly. And yes .698 as a base setting.
Edit: PI went to the flow bench now for sync and recommends you replace the throttle bodies if TPS trouble. That is how important/critical this procedure is.
 
Last edited:
TRS said:
If you messed with the sync screw, pull the throttle bodies and do it on the bench. This procedure is a very instrumental part of fueling. This may be your high idle problem, not sync'd correctly. If you have not done this before find someone who has, it's not rocket science but must be performed correctly. And yes .698 as a base setting.
Edit: PI went to the flow bench now for sync and recommends you replace the throttle bodies if TPS trouble. That is how important/critical this procedure is.
Click to expand...

Not sure I understand what you are saying.. You think I should buy new throttle bodies because I adjusted the sync screw?
 
wfieldin said:
TRS is saying that if the sync is or got messed up it is best to take the throttle bodies off the sled and work on them on your bench.

Go Here:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377263&highlight=syncing
Click to expand...

^^^^^^^^^^
Yes, go to the thread. You don't have to buy a new set of throttle bodies. We all need to educate our selves with proper info and procedure before we tackle any job. It will make life a lot easier troubleshooting. Be honest with your mechanic if you adjusted something, it will help him diagnose the problem.
 
Interesting. It seems that guy had the same issues. However it doesn't say if it was resolved.

When I bought my sled from the previous owner he had adjusted the TPS using the power commander. He told me to go to the dealer to get it adjusted properly. I did just that.. All they did was hook it up and check the voltage. They said it was within spec... So I asked why it was still idling higher than it should, so they said bring it back in. He told me he adjusted the idle screw and set the voltage a little lower than spec to see if that would help lower the idle. It didn't, however on the receipt they said it did idle at 1800... But it don't. I have another appointment for Monday.

I followed that procedure I posted before and set it up exactly as it says.. And the sled is still the same. Tomorrow I'm going to set a baseline voltage of .698 and go from there.. I hope this works.

I really wish I had tried this forum first!!
 
As two others have mentioned, it may not be a TPS or throttle body issue (although now that they have been adjusted any potential issues caused be this needs to be addressed). It could also be some sort of air leak issue or even a fueling issue with the pcV map. If everything else checks out, you could also add some more fuel to the system at idle to see if that helps. Although the TPS is often times the culprit in these situations, there are other possibilities. God luck.

PV
 
Motorbreath_ said:
Interesting. It seems that guy had the same issues. However it doesn't say if it was resolved.

When I bought my sled from the previous owner he had adjusted the TPS using the power commander. He told me to go to the dealer to get it adjusted properly. I did just that.. All they did was hook it up and check the voltage. They said it was within spec... So I asked why it was still idling higher than it should, so they said bring it back in. He told me he adjusted the idle screw and set the voltage a little lower than spec to see if that would help lower the idle. It didn't, however on the receipt they said it did idle at 1800... But it don't. I have another appointment for Monday.

I followed that procedure I posted before and set it up exactly as it says.. And the sled is still the same. Tomorrow I'm going to set a baseline voltage of .698 and go from there.. I hope this works.

I really wish I had tried this forum first!!
Click to expand...

A little insight on dealerships. Most mechanics have no idea how to syc the throttle bodies. I have taught a fair share the procedure. Ask your mechanic to explain the step by step procedure to you before you let him perform it. You will then know if he is capable or competent. Believe it or not most mechanics find this procedure daunting and intimidating.
Edit: this is not just a 15 minute job
 
Last edited:
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