2023 9R questions

[Ridin Ak]

Good morning!
I am about to purchase a 2023 9R with 77 miles. My question is how do I find out if all the recalls have been done? Is there something on the 7S screen that will show me or do I need to run the vin through a dealer?

The carbon sled P-22 fix it kit is on the list but can I get a away with just a titanium primary bolt and a carls cycle clutch kit for the first couple rides or get the p-22 fix it kit first?

Are there any other “must haves” for the 9R?

Thank you for your time.

 

[Ridin Ak]

Also does anyone have any leads on a gloss black skinz helium hood?

 

[Fat_Tones]

You can check the recalls using the VIN on the Polaris website or in the app. For the first few rides just ride it the way it is and see where you're at for RPM and track speed before clutching it. Just check the torque on your bolt after every ride. Personally I would just run the latest clutch bolt from Polaris versus a titanium bolt.

My clutch bolt (the old silver 7528193) backed out (and/or stretched) after every ride for the first 10 or so rides. I would get anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 turn at the end of each ride. I decided to stick with the P-22 for now (versus going P-85) and opted for iBexx clutching for where I ride. My bolt no longer moves but I am not able to say for sure why, since I made several changes all at once. I did the following:

- Had the clutches balanced at an engine shop (primary was out quite a lot)
- Bought the alignment bar from TRS and found my alignment was out and my secondary required to be shimmed out .133"
- Lapped my primary to my crank using valve lapping compound
- Torqued the primary onto the crank using the installation bolt (7520950) to 140ft/lbs
- Installed the latest bolt (black 7528304) to 110ft/lbs.

The bolt moved slightly when re-torquing after the first heat cycle, and has not moved since.

I believe I got the idea for lapping from TRS and/or Patrick Custom Carbon, both of whom are on this site.

I think my crank actually spun in my primary before these changes. Pics of before and after lapping:

 

[Dazzler]

Also does anyone have any leads on a gloss black skinz helium hood?

I would think easiest to call dealer with vin to know if updates are complete.
My 23 and 24 9R both over-rev’d from factory. I use seinenracingproducts (SRP) clutch kits and they work awesome.
I’ve not had the clutch bolt issue with either of mine but I don’t ride as hard as some of these young fellas. I just installed the latest upgrade bolt from Polaris so hopefully good to go. The fix kit does appear to address the issue some are having.

 

[Ultrasauras]

What elevation are you riding at if you are 6-8000 feet I would drop 10-20 lbs on the primary spring finish rate. My first 3 days I was running a 120/320 and was still reving 8600. I have a 120/300 in it for the next trip.

 

[User Name]

- Lapped my primary to my crank using valve lapping compound
- Torqued the primary onto the crank using the installation bolt (7520950) to 140ft/lbs
- Installed the latest bolt (black 7528304) to 110ft/lbs.

The bolt moved slightly when re-torquing after the first heat cycle, and has not moved since.

This feels like the definitive guide on what to do if you're nervous about your P22 but don't want to replace it

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

This feels like the definitive guide on what to do if you're nervous about your P22 but don't want to replace it

Problem is the lapping to the crank only holds the inner sheave.

Outer sheave is still only held on by the bolt.

 

[RHODESIE]

Problem is the lapping to the crank only holds the inner sheave.

Outer sheave is still only held on by the bolt.

 

[carbontj]

You can check the recalls using the VIN on the Polaris website or in the app. For the first few rides just ride it the way it is and see where you're at for RPM and track speed before clutching it. Just check the torque on your bolt after every ride. Personally I would just run the latest clutch bolt from Polaris versus a titanium bolt.

My clutch bolt (the old silver 7528193) backed out (and/or stretched) after every ride for the first 10 or so rides. I would get anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 turn at the end of each ride. I decided to stick with the P-22 for now (versus going P-85) and opted for iBexx clutching for where I ride. My bolt no longer moves but I am not able to say for sure why, since I made several changes all at once. I did the following:

- Had the clutches balanced at an engine shop (primary was out quite a lot)
- Bought the alignment bar from TRS and found my alignment was out and my secondary required to be shimmed out .133"
- Lapped my primary to my crank using valve lapping compound
- Torqued the primary onto the crank using the installation bolt (7520950) to 140ft/lbs
- Installed the latest bolt (black 7528304) to 110ft/lbs.

The bolt moved slightly when re-torquing after the first heat cycle, and has not moved since.

I believe I got the idea for lapping from TRS and/or Patrick Custom Carbon, both of whom are on this site.

I think my crank actually spun in my primary before these changes. Pics of before and after lapping:

View attachment 427480

View attachment 427481

awesome. we send out lapping compound with every P22 we balance!!! it is. must.....I feel that the clutch tapper has oil on it from being shipped so it wont rust...factory did not clean it so the oil does not allow the clutch to seat!!! thus once the clutch starts spinning it Loosen the clutch bolt thus it back off more anymore...

 

[Ridin Ak]

Thank you for all the responses! I have not owned a sled since I was a senior in high school (42 now). Not much of a mechanic but will get better in time. The sled got dropped off at Vohk Monday for the clutch recall. I believe it’s a 2025 clutch with the newest bolt. It also comes with a clutch guard I am told? Does everyone remove that or just keep it on? I also had them install their Vohk clutch kit since it was there and I believe in them! I think the Carl’s Cycle would have been slick as well. I guess I save up now for the the fix it kit or should the ‘25 clutch be the ticket? I am also torn on getting an upgraded throttle block or not? I have rode Matrix’s in some deep and the throttle does ice/stick open at times if you are not blipping the throttle a bunch when you are stopped.

I ride between 8k to 12k in Colorado.

picking her up Tuesday morning from Kremmling and going to rip later in the day before all the Christmas B.S

 

[Ridin Ak]

I need to buy a black bezel…

 

[Ridin Ak]

You can check the recalls using the VIN on the Polaris website or in the app. For the first few rides just ride it the way it is and see where you're at for RPM and track speed before clutching it. Just check the torque on your bolt after every ride. Personally I would just run the latest clutch bolt from Polaris versus a titanium bolt.

My clutch bolt (the old silver 7528193) backed out (and/or stretched) after every ride for the first 10 or so rides. I would get anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 turn at the end of each ride. I decided to stick with the P-22 for now (versus going P-85) and opted for iBexx clutching for where I ride. My bolt no longer moves but I am not able to say for sure why, since I made several changes all at once. I did the following:

- Had the clutches balanced at an engine shop (primary was out quite a lot)
- Bought the alignment bar from TRS and found my alignment was out and my secondary required to be shimmed out .133"
- Lapped my primary to my crank using valve lapping compound
- Torqued the primary onto the crank using the installation bolt (7520950) to 140ft/lbs
- Installed the latest bolt (black 7528304) to 110ft/lbs.

The bolt moved slightly when re-torquing after the first heat cycle, and has not moved since.

I believe I got the idea for lapping from TRS and/or Patrick Custom Carbon, both of whom are on this site.

I think my crank actually spun in my primary before these changes. Pics of before and after lapping:

View attachment 427480

View attachment 427481

Thank you for the response! I have much to learn! By chance are you also on thumpertalk? My forum name is SMV RYDER and I have a Husky FX 350.

 

[Fat_Tones]

Thank you for the response! I have much to learn! By chance are you also on thumpertalk? My forum name is SMV RYDER and I have a Husky FX 350.

You’re welcome! Yes sir I am on TT under the same user name (maybe a slightly different spelling). I too had an FX350 from 2018-2021. Congrats on the sled 9R is a fun machine! It is like a 350 4T or 300 2T but for winter enduro (tree riding). Turbos are all the rave, but I hated my Boost and couldn’t sell it fast enough ha ha.

 

[GSX97]

- Torqued the primary onto the crank using the installation bolt (7520950) to 140ft/lbs
- Installed the latest bolt (black 7528304) to 110ft/lbs.




Quick question, you mention installing the latest black bolt, but to my knowledge, the latest bolt is silver

 

[Fat_Tones]

Unless there is a bolt that has come out since 7528304, the latest bolt is black.

 

[GSX97]

Unless there is a bolt that has come out since 7528304, the latest bolt is black.

Well hrmmm.

I had thought my sled got an updated bolt put into it, but the one I have is definitely silver

 

[Fat_Tones]

Well hrmmm.

I had thought my sled got an updated bolt put into it, but the one I have is definitely silver

From left to right…..installation bolt 7520950, aftermarket bolt, latest bolt 7528304, older silver bolts 7528193:

 

[GSX97]

Well then, I guess I will get a new bolt ordered up. I did just put the carbonsled sheave in, so I am a bit less worried about the bolt, but would prefer to have the latest and 'greatest'

 

[Ultrasauras]

GSX97 your dealer should have a new bolt for you mine call last week and I got mine

 

[GSX97]

GSX97 your dealer should have a new bolt for you mine call last week and I got mine

I will have to check with them. I called last week to see if they had a new bolt in stock just because I was going to replace while I was installing the carbonsled sheave and they said they would have to order it.
That was when I assumed that I already had the updated bolt to begin with, heh.