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2020 Patriot with SLP Twins, sled RIPS

Matte Murder said:
Put a needle bearing in the clutch. Only change. No more pop from the engine in and out of throttle. Throttle response is fantastic. The mid-range feels really strong now. I talked to SLP about clutching and I am going to try the SLP magnum force weights. I have the new BooneDocker weights in it now. It is running fantastic just want to try SLPs recommended set up.
Click to expand...
I just put the Mag force in my 850 pro they really do work awesome and my sled performs and dose everything they claimed it would be. I just ordered the exact same setup for my sons 850 ??
 
Got the SLP weights in. Super easy install and easy to tune with the set screws. Sled really likes to rev, adjusting the weights to get 8600-8700 rpm. The difference from 8350-8600 plus is dramatic. Sled feels way stronger than stock from low thru mid-range and The sled pulls hard right thru max revs, from 8000-8600 it feels way stronger than a stocker. I’m 250lbs, 275 with my gear on and another 20 on my tunnel. That’s a full load for sure And I love the extra power, really gets me around better than a stocker.
Sled does have a few quirks. When it’s hot I have to crack the throttle a little bit to get it to start on the first pull most of the time. In 3’ plus of light snow or 2ish of heavy snow the sled gets choked off by the exhaust, if I give it just a quick flick to the left to clear the exhaust it clears right out or on right side side hills I shift my weight back to get the nose higher and the exhaust out of the snow. The one annoying and potentially dangerous thing is the sled will bog bad, to the point of almost dying if I run it full throttle hard for 60-90 seconds then feather out of the throttle. When I come back on it’ll bog badly once or twice and I’ve been caught in steep sidehilling a couple times and got stuck a couple times too.
 
Matte Murder said:
Got the SLP weights in. Super easy install and easy to tune with the set screws. Sled really likes to rev, adjusting the weights to get 8600-8700 rpm. The difference from 8350-8600 plus is dramatic. Sled feels way stronger than stock from low thru mid-range and The sled pulls hard right thru max revs, from 8000-8600 it feels way stronger than a stocker. I’m 250lbs, 275 with my gear on and another 20 on my tunnel. That’s a full load for sure And I love the extra power, really gets me around better than a stocker.
Sled does have a few quirks. When it’s hot I have to crack the throttle a little bit to get it to start on the first pull most of the time. In 3’ plus of light snow or 2ish of heavy snow the sled gets choked off by the exhaust, if I give it just a quick flick to the left to clear the exhaust it clears right out or on right side side hills I shift my weight back to get the nose higher and the exhaust out of the snow. The one annoying and potentially dangerous thing is the sled will bog bad, to the point of almost dying if I run it full throttle hard for 60-90 seconds then feather out of the throttle. When I come back on it’ll bog badly once or twice and I’ve been caught in steep sidehilling a couple times and got stuck a couple times too.
Click to expand...

That could be a backshifting issue.

Build some heat, then it doesn’t downshift enough when you let off.
 
This was different than before. Maybe 10-60 seconds after a very hard pull. I will talk to Tony too, he is really we regarded on this site for clutching. I ”think” it is related to pipe heat tho. Those pipes cool off so fast, never seen pipes get cool enough to actually touch like these.
Also, on some of the longer full throttle pulls the engine protection features of the Poo engine mgmt seem to kick in, which is great, but there are times when I needed it all and I had to turn out or change lines. But those are the torture test pulls only.
 
At idle and up through 6500rpm is just a little louder than stock. Ride past your buddies at 8700 rpm skis in the air on the right side and they will pelt you with rocks and garbage tho. I hate loud sleds too and was a little worried about this one but I’m fine with it.
 
Sheetmetalfab said:
Click to expand...
I think this is what you want.

http://www.sourceinnovations.ca/product/polaris-team-secondary-roller-bearing-kit/

These roller bearings greatly reduce friction where the spring cup normally grinds back and forth on the aluminum in the clutch. It is easy to understand when you manually rotate a secondary clutch open by hand before adding the bearing and then with the bearing. The friction is night and day. This plays out when you are climbing a hill and the motor starts to lose rpms. The clutch with the bearing is way more sensitive to the change and reacts quicker to allow the shift.
 
Teth-Air said:
I think this is what you want.

http://www.sourceinnovations.ca/product/polaris-team-secondary-roller-bearing-kit/

These roller bearings greatly reduce friction where the spring cup normally grinds back and forth on the aluminum in the clutch. It is easy to understand when you manually rotate a secondary clutch open by hand before adding the bearing and then with the bearing. The friction is night and day. This plays out when you are climbing a hill and the motor starts to lose rpms. The clutch with the bearing is way more sensitive to the change and reacts quicker to allow the shift.
Click to expand...
SHeeeeeeesh looks like I have to spend more money!

Now, the primary clutch spring washer, that gets all nasty and rubs on everything from the spring to outer clutch cover, is there any delrin bushing or bearing setup for that?
 
chickenstixx said:
Does this eliminate and REPLACE the factory steel bushing on the outside, or is it in addition to the factory steel bushing on the clutch tower cover.

Really appreciate your help, new to polaris. I will be trying a r-26 belt from you too. Messaged you on fb last night i think.
Click to expand...
Don't remove anything, just add the Delrin washer under either end of the spring so it can rotate as it compresses. Someome will chime in on the extra height and changing of the spring tension but these are very thin and any change in rpm is not noticed negativiely.
 
obile said:
Ive got the twins on a 20 khaos as well.ride 4 to 6000 most of the time.have the magnum force weights loaded to 64 1/2 grams running 8500 to 8600 the twins do love 8600. This thing pulls so hard all the way through the entire rpm range its rediculous! Installed the hardened shims in primary and needle brg under the cup of the secondary helped the backshift a ton.the cold pipe thing you describe is there in this one too but like you said the only time i notice it is at the start of the day only lasts a minute or so then smooth as silk. Smiles for miles i love these things dont even mind the blisters it puts on my hands
Click to expand...
Hey Obile, any problems with heat under the hood or meeting plastics? did you install any extra vents ?
 
rayjay19610 said:
Hey Obile, any problems with heat under the hood or meeting plastics? did you install any extra vents ?
Click to expand...
No problem with under hood heat at all these pipes don't really run that hot.have a muff pot mounted to the can and it takes forever to heat up food.
 
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