?
Did you put the larger capacity fuel tanks on any of these builds?
Did you put the larger capacity fuel tanks on any of these builds?
2016 Yamaha YZ450FX Super Hero Builds - CMX - Yeti - TS
- Thread starter tillbuilt
- Start date
C
Corban_White
Well-known member
So did you modify the bushings or just get a bigger hammer? I built my own 3rd shock setup for my 2015 Timbersled and I just machined a set of bushings identical to the aluminum hardtail ones but out of oilite.
No, i kept the smaller stock tank. I like to carry extra fuel low and on the tunnel.
I used a spreader inside the frame to get them in.
Yeti MX 120 ( IronMan ):
With the instruction manual that Yeti provides I found my self truly going step by step through the install process following every detail in the manual. It was quite a change from the typical fist beating on chest carnal male response of: " who needs instructions". This is the most high tech, well engineered piece I have ever bolted to a bike. So I felt it was due the respect of following the instructions to the letter.
I did purchase the RRS suspension strut with the unit, but it was not ready at the time of this install. I will go back to the install of RRS when it arrives at the shop.
Almost all of the Yeti parts have part #'s on them. This makes it a very easy job to fit the correct pieces to their homes when doing the install. Make sure you pay attention and press the left and right bushings into the sub-frame in to their correct locations. They have a very tight press fit and can not be removed easily.
Yeti even provided the tools for the frame bushing installation, and the socket for adjusting the eccentric bolt.
Chain adjustment is done by loosening 6 12mm headed bolts and the eccentric bolt nut. Standing on the left hand side of the bike, and turning the eccentric bolt in a clockwise direction will move the entire kit rearward to tighten the chain. Very slight rotation of the bolt moves the kit a long way. Do not put a lot of pressure on this 12mm eccentric bolt head. It requires less than 15lbs. of torque to achieve chain tension when all fasteners are loose. If the eccentric will not tighten the chain with minimal torque, loosen the swing arm bolt to reduce any binding of the strut rod to sub-frame.
The entire install went soothe as glass until the dreaded brake bleeding process. I have done so many that I did not follow the instructions and started bleeding using my Phoenix Injector just like I had done for every TS I ever installed. It turns out that Yeti sends out their kits with a Speedy Bleeder in the caliper and the bleeding process is much different than I am use to. So FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!! They will save you time. Yeti even includes a bleeding syringe with the kit.
With the instruction manual that Yeti provides I found my self truly going step by step through the install process following every detail in the manual. It was quite a change from the typical fist beating on chest carnal male response of: " who needs instructions". This is the most high tech, well engineered piece I have ever bolted to a bike. So I felt it was due the respect of following the instructions to the letter.
I did purchase the RRS suspension strut with the unit, but it was not ready at the time of this install. I will go back to the install of RRS when it arrives at the shop.
Almost all of the Yeti parts have part #'s on them. This makes it a very easy job to fit the correct pieces to their homes when doing the install. Make sure you pay attention and press the left and right bushings into the sub-frame in to their correct locations. They have a very tight press fit and can not be removed easily.
Yeti even provided the tools for the frame bushing installation, and the socket for adjusting the eccentric bolt.
Chain adjustment is done by loosening 6 12mm headed bolts and the eccentric bolt nut. Standing on the left hand side of the bike, and turning the eccentric bolt in a clockwise direction will move the entire kit rearward to tighten the chain. Very slight rotation of the bolt moves the kit a long way. Do not put a lot of pressure on this 12mm eccentric bolt head. It requires less than 15lbs. of torque to achieve chain tension when all fasteners are loose. If the eccentric will not tighten the chain with minimal torque, loosen the swing arm bolt to reduce any binding of the strut rod to sub-frame.
The entire install went soothe as glass until the dreaded brake bleeding process. I have done so many that I did not follow the instructions and started bleeding using my Phoenix Injector just like I had done for every TS I ever installed. It turns out that Yeti sends out their kits with a Speedy Bleeder in the caliper and the bleeding process is much different than I am use to. So FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!! They will save you time. Yeti even includes a bleeding syringe with the kit.
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I'm looking forward to some objective ride reviews. As far as the design, construction goes Yeti has set the bar way up there.
M5
M5
Yeah buddy....
Man, everything about that YETI kit seems sweet,,,,,,,
EXCEPT THE PRICE
Seems legit tho, judging by the quality.......
Call me crazy, but,,,,,,,, I'm just not a huge fan of the carbon fiber chassie....
Yep, crazy.......
Man, everything about that YETI kit seems sweet,,,,,,,
EXCEPT THE PRICE
Seems legit tho, judging by the quality.......
Call me crazy, but,,,,,,,, I'm just not a huge fan of the carbon fiber chassie....
Yep, crazy.......
how does the clear belt shield stay see through ? seems it wood fill with moisture and fog up or is it vented?Yeti MX 120 ( IronMan ):
With the instruction manual that Yeti provides I found my self truly going step by step through the install process following every detail in the manual. It was quite a change from the typical fist beating on chest carnal male response of: " who needs instructions". This is the most high tech, well engineered piece I have ever bolted to a bike. So I felt it was due the respect of following the instructions to the letter.
I did purchase the RSS suspension strut with the unit, but it was not ready at the time of this install. I will go back to the install of RSS when it arrives at the shop.
Almost all of the Yeti parts have part #'s on them. This makes it a very easy job to fit the correct pieces to their homes when doing the install. Make sure you pay attention and press the left and right bushings into the sub-frame in to their correct locations. They have a very tight press fit and can not be removed easily.
Yeti even provided the tools for the frame bushing installation, and the socket for adjusting the eccentric bolt.
Chain adjustment is done by loosening 6 12mm headed bolts and the eccentric bolt nut. Standing on the left hand side of the bike, and turning the eccentric bolt in a clockwise direction will move the entire kit rearward to tighten the chain. Very slight rotation of the bolt moves the kit a long way. Do not put a lot of pressure on this 12mm eccentric bolt head. It requires less than 15lbs. of torque to achieve chain tension when all fasteners are loose. If the eccentric will not tighten the chain with minimal torque, loosen the swing arm bolt to reduce any binding of the strut rod to sub-frame.
The entire install went soothe as glass until the dreaded brake bleeding process. I have done so many that I did not follow the instructions and started bleeding using my Phoenix Injector just like I had done for every TS I ever installed. It turns out that Yeti sends out their kits with a Speedy Bleeder in the caliper and the bleeding process is much different than I am use to. So FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!! They will save you time. Yeti even includes a bleeding syringe with the kit.
I find it hilarious that you named the bike kit with almost no iron in it at all, ironman. lmao
Ok?
Let's hear some ride reviews........ I'm particularly interested in how the CMX kit stacks up,,,,,,,, .... I'm leaning that way, since the YETI is over budget,,,,,,,, and I don't want any strange issues with my kit,,,,,.... and I know CMX builds some tight $hit.......... Plus, I haven't heard much about them, good or bad............
Let's hear some ride reviews........ I'm particularly interested in how the CMX kit stacks up,,,,,,,, .... I'm leaning that way, since the YETI is over budget,,,,,,,, and I don't want any strange issues with my kit,,,,,.... and I know CMX builds some tight $hit.......... Plus, I haven't heard much about them, good or bad............
The last build: CMX BK 120 ( The Hulk )
Once the kit arrived I was able to see that things on the CMX are WAY different than all of the skids I have installed before. The machined artwork that CMX puts into this unit is clearly top notch. The belt drive is on the right side of the bike and helps transfer the torque load more evenly through the skid. Even the bearings on the belt drive side are very large in diameter. All of the backbone and side panels are bolted together and not welded. Parts replacement in case of and incident should be easy.
The suspension links are even in the skid at different angles. When you press down on the back of the skid you are able to compress the suspension easily. I am no mechanical engineer so I can not tell you that a design will work or won't work just by seeing it. I have to ride it!!!! The track is set very loose and the rolling resistance seems to be minimal, compared to TS units.
In talking to CMX prior to the installation I had a good idea of what was needed to do upon the installation. CMX likes to move the skid as far forward as possible so that means a compromise has to be made. The track hits the factory chain idler mount on the frame.
So you have to make the decision of notching the track lugs for clearance, or cut the end of the mount off of the frame. We build snow bikes and want maximum performance on the snow, so we decided to cut the frame and weld the tab back on when we go back to wheels. It was an easy decision for us.
The skid to frame install was easy and straight forward. The swing arm bushings do not have pockets that are recessed into the bike adapter, so it is not an easy job if you are by yourself. You do need a couple of hands to hold the bushings in place while moving the skid forward into the frame and threading the swing arm bolt through. The strut rod is a nicely machined unit with knurling on the shaft for easy adjustment in length.
We did find that the upper strut rod bushings did need some fine tuning to fit into the frame. I little time with he file and they fit right in.
The brake line was an improvement over others I have used in the past. It has a typical banjo bolt on the master cylinder side, but a flare fitting on the skid side. This was very nice. We were able to route the line how every we needed and there was no loop we had to deal with when connecting to the caliper.
The chain was easy to install and the adjuster had plenty of room to achieve proper chain tension. The adjuster is easy to use, but the bolt heads are some what difficult to get a wrench on after proper tension is achieved. It is tight down in there to get a box end wrench on, and tighten up the lock down bolts. The chain idler sprocket is a long way away from any possible interference with the track.
This is what we refer to as a " builders kit ". The install has no instructions and is not for the person that can barely change a light bulb. It is very similar to a CP piston and ring set. High quality but you better know what you are doing. You do not just slap the rings in the lands and slam it in the cylinder. You have to own the correct tools, and file the ring gaps correctly, and when done right you have a well built product that runs great.
.
Once the kit arrived I was able to see that things on the CMX are WAY different than all of the skids I have installed before. The machined artwork that CMX puts into this unit is clearly top notch. The belt drive is on the right side of the bike and helps transfer the torque load more evenly through the skid. Even the bearings on the belt drive side are very large in diameter. All of the backbone and side panels are bolted together and not welded. Parts replacement in case of and incident should be easy.
The suspension links are even in the skid at different angles. When you press down on the back of the skid you are able to compress the suspension easily. I am no mechanical engineer so I can not tell you that a design will work or won't work just by seeing it. I have to ride it!!!! The track is set very loose and the rolling resistance seems to be minimal, compared to TS units.
In talking to CMX prior to the installation I had a good idea of what was needed to do upon the installation. CMX likes to move the skid as far forward as possible so that means a compromise has to be made. The track hits the factory chain idler mount on the frame.
So you have to make the decision of notching the track lugs for clearance, or cut the end of the mount off of the frame. We build snow bikes and want maximum performance on the snow, so we decided to cut the frame and weld the tab back on when we go back to wheels. It was an easy decision for us.
The skid to frame install was easy and straight forward. The swing arm bushings do not have pockets that are recessed into the bike adapter, so it is not an easy job if you are by yourself. You do need a couple of hands to hold the bushings in place while moving the skid forward into the frame and threading the swing arm bolt through. The strut rod is a nicely machined unit with knurling on the shaft for easy adjustment in length.
We did find that the upper strut rod bushings did need some fine tuning to fit into the frame. I little time with he file and they fit right in.
The brake line was an improvement over others I have used in the past. It has a typical banjo bolt on the master cylinder side, but a flare fitting on the skid side. This was very nice. We were able to route the line how every we needed and there was no loop we had to deal with when connecting to the caliper.
The chain was easy to install and the adjuster had plenty of room to achieve proper chain tension. The adjuster is easy to use, but the bolt heads are some what difficult to get a wrench on after proper tension is achieved. It is tight down in there to get a box end wrench on, and tighten up the lock down bolts. The chain idler sprocket is a long way away from any possible interference with the track.
This is what we refer to as a " builders kit ". The install has no instructions and is not for the person that can barely change a light bulb. It is very similar to a CP piston and ring set. High quality but you better know what you are doing. You do not just slap the rings in the lands and slam it in the cylinder. You have to own the correct tools, and file the ring gaps correctly, and when done right you have a well built product that runs great.
.
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Hmm
Had to cut the chain idler arm off the bike eh, that sux.... Could a guy build a small bracket for bolting and unbolting it back to the frame??? I don't want to have to weld it back every time?....
Had to cut the chain idler arm off the bike eh, that sux.... Could a guy build a small bracket for bolting and unbolting it back to the frame??? I don't want to have to weld it back every time?....
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I will be interested to see how that small aluminum strut rod bushing holds up. TS used to do something similar on their old Yamaha front end kits tie rod ends and those bushings wore out all the time. Different forces but still something to keep an eye on.
M5
M5
Game time.....
Let's hear it,,,,,,the good,,,,,,,, the bad,,,,,,,,, and the ugly!!!! on these kits... Don't hold nothing back, give it to us straight.....
Let's hear it,,,,,,the good,,,,,,,, the bad,,,,,,,,, and the ugly!!!! on these kits... Don't hold nothing back, give it to us straight.....
D
DriftDiver8
Member
Let's hear it,,,,,,the good,,,,,,,, the bad,,,,,,,,, and the ugly!!!! on these kits... Don't hold nothing back, give it to us straight.....
I spoke to Toby yesterday and he said that he would try to have the remainder of the info posted by April 1.
The next step in in all of the builds is a custom Seat Concepts seat.
We will send your seat out and have it recovered and foamed to give you that cushy ride that is not hard in the cold, but will give you the ability to use the seat and help you carve the corners without having a sore butt in the afternoon. Look how the seat is hour glass shaped now.
No more 2x4 ride!!!!
.
We will send your seat out and have it recovered and foamed to give you that cushy ride that is not hard in the cold, but will give you the ability to use the seat and help you carve the corners without having a sore butt in the afternoon. Look how the seat is hour glass shaped now.
No more 2x4 ride!!!!
.
The next step in in all of the builds is a custom Seat Concepts seat.
We will send your seat out and have it recovered and foamed to give you that cushy ride that is not hard in the cold, but will give you the ability to use the seat and help you carve the corners without having a sore butt in the afternoon. Look how the seat is hour glass shaped now.
No more 2x4 ride!!!!
.
Wandering if you find the concepts seat cover to hold moisture and is wet all the time especially in snowy wet conditions ? Ive been running one this season and my only complaint is that its always wet on top the grainy material seems to hold moisture. I know the timber open tunnel doesnt help with kicking up snow alot but my normal mx seat stayed dry.. Getting tired of the wet a$$.. I did use the vapour barrier as well between the foam and cover
On my seat Concepts seat I found the same thing. So I used some 10 Mil plastic sheeting from lowes to make my own barrier, then I sealed it on with construction adhesive after it was all together. Then I cut away the excess. Took a night to dry, but it made a big difference.
Yes, I find that the seat does stay wet, but my butt does not hurt!!!!! I do not like the wet pants either, and since I got my first set of Klim Havoc bibs two seasons ago I have never had the wet pants again. I love these bibs!!!! They are Snow MX built and approved.
http://www.klim.com/Havoc-Bib-3285-000
