The seal was fine when I looked at it and compared it to the other pro. I don't think i would of pulled the crank out I think I just tightens the primary to right just enough to barely scrap the bearing guard because there is merely anything worn off when you compare it to the pro clutch and bearing guard
2015 pro Rmk possible motor damage
- Thread starter Turbo Dragon Man
- Start date
I'm a little confused. Just curious...did you mean to say it "squealed" in your first post? It read "selling". When you put the clutch back on, did you put the belt on and run it? Or did you just run the sled with the belt off?
my 30 years of experience as a professional mechanic tells me you are wrong. your wrong . the only way you could get 10 times the torque on that bolt would be to use a 3/4 or 1 inch impact wrench . a 3/8 could maybe get you to a 100 lbs. a 1/2 inch possibly but you would have to really hammer on it. an like I said above the bolt should have broken way before you applied double torque.
Yes I put the belt on and ran it and it must of been riding against that guard and wore down, but it barley wore down that bearing cover and I took it off I don't think anything happened to the internals if it did that's rather sad.
May have cracked the fixed half when it was taken off with the impact. That's another disassembly issue. Most of us screw up a time or two, bikes sleds or trucks. You manned up, just get it fixed right now. Guys here will help with advice, just keep asking.
For me.. all a moot point... the factory bolt will stretch at the skinny part of the bolt down by the threads.
To me...IMO... only two possiblities.
1) Something got caught between the clutch and the seal retainer.
2) The clutch steel insert is cracked and allowed it to seat farther down on the shaft... and when removed again... it closed up.
Regardless... remove clutches carefully AND... install only with a good torque wrench....and re-torque after a couple minutes of use.
There is a good chance that the bolt is now "hour-glassed" at the small diameter, besides the clutch/shaft situation itself.
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Post back what they find please. Always interesting to hear the final story.
Okay sounds good I talked to dealer and it's going there in the morning. Thank you everyone for contributing for some suggestions.
Impact wrenches on clutches
Professional crank builder told me to Never use impact wrench on crankshaft bolt or puller ever. He said it can cause the crankpin to rotate ever so slightly and cause your crank bearings to fail at some later date. He suggests getting the crank checked for alignment timing before running it. Just my two cents.
Professional crank builder told me to Never use impact wrench on crankshaft bolt or puller ever. He said it can cause the crankpin to rotate ever so slightly and cause your crank bearings to fail at some later date. He suggests getting the crank checked for alignment timing before running it. Just my two cents.
G
geo
Well-known member
For sure check runout on the crank. The design focuses a lot of the pullers torque close to a pressed in pin.
I've watched and cringed many times as mechanics (some I even respect) rattled clutches on and off (even at races lol). Not good but surprisingly not as many catastrophies as I expected. I guess they have a better feel for the gun than I did.
This motor is different though and that is one of the biggest no- no's you can doo.
An even bigger no- no though is banging (different than tapping) on the end of the puller to set it free. That one is true on any motor.
IMO the Poo clutch is the most scarey lol to pop of any sled I`ve owned. I bring out a cushion from the couch to catch it lol. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 tries of lube and torque on the puller cause I don`t want to pull out the 4' bar.
TDM did you run it before you r and r'd the clutch? Pretty tight fit-clearance (compared to other sleds I've owned) there and that part of the clutch is machined to assure clearance. Stuff happens sometimes right out of the crate.
Hope your dealer can and does check runout on the stub.
I've watched and cringed many times as mechanics (some I even respect) rattled clutches on and off (even at races lol). Not good but surprisingly not as many catastrophies as I expected. I guess they have a better feel for the gun than I did.
This motor is different though and that is one of the biggest no- no's you can doo.
An even bigger no- no though is banging (different than tapping) on the end of the puller to set it free. That one is true on any motor.
IMO the Poo clutch is the most scarey lol to pop of any sled I`ve owned. I bring out a cushion from the couch to catch it lol. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 tries of lube and torque on the puller cause I don`t want to pull out the 4' bar.
TDM did you run it before you r and r'd the clutch? Pretty tight fit-clearance (compared to other sleds I've owned) there and that part of the clutch is machined to assure clearance. Stuff happens sometimes right out of the crate.
Hope your dealer can and does check runout on the stub.
The only reason I ask is that I wasn't sure if you understood that the secondary makes a whinning noise when you put the belt back on. It works itself out once the sled moves 10 feet or so. If you were not aware of this it could seem like something else went wrong. Sorry if that is too clutching 101 for you but it seemed like you might not have a ton of clutching experience.
H
hoov165x
Well-known member
Good advice. For me, I won't use an impact to loosen either- when it comes to a crankshaft. Too easy to ruin a crank..
My high end Ingersoll Titanium at my shop (1/2 inch) will deliver 1200 ft-lbs.
Everything sorted out , apparently they did had problems from factory with some of the clutches being over torqued and expanding the primary's seating on the crank. crank was all good they checked with dial indicator.p
Polaris looked after it very well.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Polaris looked after it very well.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
9
907assault
Active member
The torque spec is a simple way to describe a pull up dimension ( distance traveled on the crank after metal to metal contact).
There is definitely engineering involved with it, being that the clutch is an interference fit to the crank. The torque gets you in the ballpark for safe operating speeds with correct torsional capabilities.
This is why anti-seize, grease, impacts, hammers, etc. are a big no no. These have influence on the engineered design.
Sounds like you went way past the pull up window with the impact. I would measure everything up before running your current set-up. If your not hosed now, you could be soon by not looking into this closer.
There is definitely engineering involved with it, being that the clutch is an interference fit to the crank. The torque gets you in the ballpark for safe operating speeds with correct torsional capabilities.
This is why anti-seize, grease, impacts, hammers, etc. are a big no no. These have influence on the engineered design.
Sounds like you went way past the pull up window with the impact. I would measure everything up before running your current set-up. If your not hosed now, you could be soon by not looking into this closer.
Is this why clutches have been splitting in half?
Did you get a new primary out of the deal from poo? Thanks for the updates.
