2015 pro Rmk possible motor damage
- Thread starter Turbo Dragon Man
- Start date
When I put it back on after with hand it all went on nice and it runs fine.
S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
impact on the motor? yah....not this guy. Long breaker bar and some heat.
Took it all apart and checked everything in the primary no cracks or anythubf
N
nuggetau
Well-known member
Depending on the impact wrench they can deliver 100-1200 ft lbs of torque, so way to much!
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N
nuggetau
Well-known member
Wrong! An impact wrench can easily deliver 10 times the recommended torque.
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Something had to give for those two pieces to contact each other. I personally would not run that engine until i had someone very knowledgable look at it.
Also another not, It was only a 3/8 Electric impact
C
Carlos Randolph
Active member
somethings gotta give.....
As stated previously.....do not run that motor....for sure not under load. Remove the clutch and take it to some one (better yet the whole sled)....preferably a good tech at the dealer, or some one in the know of how these things work. For your own good, don't wreck any more stuff because your to stubborn or afraid. Honest mistake, but you have a brand new sled, still under warranty, don't mess it up any worse.
Something had to give, in order for that clutch to get shoved on to the pto shaft that far. It is virtually impossible for some thing not to be stressed or cracked on the clutch. Not to mention what could possibly be wrong with the pto end on the crank shaft. If it lets go on you pulling at 8000rpm, the clutch will most likely be the cheapest part you wreck....by a long shot.I have seen a sled totaled from the clutch coming off due to the shaft end of the crank going.....side of sled looked like it got hit with an I.E.D.
Check the pride and fear at the door of the dealer, and go ask for some good
As stated previously.....do not run that motor....for sure not under load. Remove the clutch and take it to some one (better yet the whole sled)....preferably a good tech at the dealer, or some one in the know of how these things work. For your own good, don't wreck any more stuff because your to stubborn or afraid. Honest mistake, but you have a brand new sled, still under warranty, don't mess it up any worse.
Something had to give, in order for that clutch to get shoved on to the pto shaft that far. It is virtually impossible for some thing not to be stressed or cracked on the clutch. Not to mention what could possibly be wrong with the pto end on the crank shaft. If it lets go on you pulling at 8000rpm, the clutch will most likely be the cheapest part you wreck....by a long shot.I have seen a sled totaled from the clutch coming off due to the shaft end of the crank going.....side of sled looked like it got hit with an I.E.D.
Check the pride and fear at the door of the dealer, and go ask for some good
L
littleredstroker
Member
Helped a buddy change his clutch out on a derge a few years ago. i supplied shop, tools, and some extra muscle but he was more than certain he could do most of it himself so i was by no means baby sitting. He got everything back together and went to start it.. loud click and nothing. He dicked with it some more and got it to start, but there was a gawd aweful squealing sound. Long story short,(1st mistake) he upgraded the pressure plate, but didnt use the new supplied bolts, (which were 1/4 inch shorter) and when he put it in ( 2nd mistake) he used a impact. That 3/8s impact drove those 5/16 bolts 1/4 inch into the back of the block, he now has a perfect circle "custom machined" into the back of his block...
NEVER ever ever ever ever use a impact to tighten stuff like this... The only thing automotive I use imacts for is lug nuts, and disassembly...
The main reason is because you cannot have any possible idea how tight it is...some stuff you just have to develop a feel for and know when its tight.
In My line of work the hands have a saying when someone asks how tight to get something, the answer is " tighten it till something breaks then back it off a half a turn" which luckily for me, keeps me employed..
NEVER ever ever ever ever use a impact to tighten stuff like this... The only thing automotive I use imacts for is lug nuts, and disassembly...
The main reason is because you cannot have any possible idea how tight it is...some stuff you just have to develop a feel for and know when its tight.
In My line of work the hands have a saying when someone asks how tight to get something, the answer is " tighten it till something breaks then back it off a half a turn" which luckily for me, keeps me employed..
The cone on the clutch has to have a hairline crack in it, although even then it would have to go on the shaft much further than possible.
Any chance that you had something stuck to the back of the clutch when installing it the first time? Sandwiched in between the block and clutch? That is an odd looking scratch around the clutch, further out from where it was rubbed, it looks like something was jammed in there.
Or was the protector loose, with the bolts sticking out?
I have a feeling something is missing from this story.
Any chance that you had something stuck to the back of the clutch when installing it the first time? Sandwiched in between the block and clutch? That is an odd looking scratch around the clutch, further out from where it was rubbed, it looks like something was jammed in there.
Or was the protector loose, with the bolts sticking out?
I have a feeling something is missing from this story.
Was a different clutch used? Something seems screwy, never seen or heard of this unless a clutch with a different taper or a clutch from a long snout crank was used.??
I don't think it can be tightened enough to put the correct clutch on even a tiny amount farther than designed. The bolt would likely break first and if not, the hardened steel insert would have to split and this would split the inner sheave. It would be very obvious.
I suppose a defective clutch taper might be possible and it was like this before it was removed. ??
I don't think it can be tightened enough to put the correct clutch on even a tiny amount farther than designed. The bolt would likely break first and if not, the hardened steel insert would have to split and this would split the inner sheave. It would be very obvious.
I suppose a defective clutch taper might be possible and it was like this before it was removed. ??
I removed it using the same impact the the puller and I put it on and it did this, took it off put it back on and everything is fine. It's going to dealer in the morning. I don't think I did anything to catastrophic.
C
Carlos Randolph
Active member
Picture....
I looked at the pic of the clutch and seal again. Some one correct me if I am wrong please, and I am not just seeing things.... Could be wrong, but the plate holding the crank seal looks to be dented inward (tward motor)??? Not with standing how it got that way, that is a big problem in and of it's self.... If that seal is compromised in any way, causing a bad seal on the crank......the motor will be toast in short order. No dealer tech in their right mind would let that go as a warranty issue.
I looked at the pic of the clutch and seal again. Some one correct me if I am wrong please, and I am not just seeing things.... Could be wrong, but the plate holding the crank seal looks to be dented inward (tward motor)??? Not with standing how it got that way, that is a big problem in and of it's self.... If that seal is compromised in any way, causing a bad seal on the crank......the motor will be toast in short order. No dealer tech in their right mind would let that go as a warranty issue.
