FCR, looks like this setup requires you to pull the case to install? that's a ton of extra work..but very nice looking setup..any chance you weighed the whole set up before install? nice job straightening the tunnel too...
2014: Tweaked Tunnel from ski/spindle hit
- Thread starter FCR112
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FCR112
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Thanks, I did weigh it, but it included the full tunnel rear bumper and 150 steel rivets with the mandrels still installed... (u know the part that pops off and ends up on the garage floor 150 times)
Those must count for something so I called it 1lb of loss being extremely conservative. The adhesive weighs something too, good luck figuring that out
... so I'm ballparking 16 lbs with plates, full tunnel bumper, and the aluminum over structure (was less than 10oz heavier than the carbon fiber by my junky digital fish scale)
Still waiting on the anodizing co for the bumper, rails, foot wells, etc... should have it back on the mtn by next weekend. I'll add a pic before I administer the next beating
Those must count for something so I called it 1lb of loss being extremely conservative. The adhesive weighs something too, good luck figuring that out
... so I'm ballparking 16 lbs with plates, full tunnel bumper, and the aluminum over structure (was less than 10oz heavier than the carbon fiber by my junky digital fish scale) Still waiting on the anodizing co for the bumper, rails, foot wells, etc... should have it back on the mtn by next weekend. I'll add a pic before I administer the next beating
can you give some details on how you straightened it? I get asked that a lot by guys and its a toughy to explain..looking forward to seeing the rest of it..nice job
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FCR112
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Appreciate it, I think patience helped me out.
The first thing I did was hit it 3 or 4 times with a sledge hammer, then walked away for about a day
Haha seriously, I swung at it for a strike or 2 before I realized that is NOT the way to go. In my case, I clamped a few pieces of flat stock along the length of the buckle and started working the c clamps... moving them slowly and continuing up and down. I had an old Edge trailing arm that I hacked the spindle section off and used as well, you never know what you have laying around that will work as a strong straight edge. Probably the best advice I stumbled across is to remove the inner cross support from the upper fwd suspension arm and reinstall it to brace up the area while you are working.I didn't use any power tools, once it was close with the clamps just a body hammer and a dolly.
I'm far from an expert at body work so I'd say take your time, use your head, and you'll be able to make it right and much stronger than a stocker.
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FCR112
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Hey sorry I missed the question first time around. The case is pretty easy with the quickdrive. You don't have to remove it, just get the back side to release from the bulkhead so you can slide the old plate out and the new one in. 4 nuts and one rivet to drill out from the tunnel side that holds the stud plate in place, add a little heat to release the adhesive and you're good. Not too bad.
wjl has a thread with some good info in it on this too.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=357881
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FCR112
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The joint where the bumper meets the plates needs to be machined to a perfect fit, VE makes the bumper to fit the stock plates perfectly but not their beef up plates, easy to fix. Also, anyone trying to remove the black stock plates above the drop brackets here's the trick... After removing the 2 standard pop rivets normally (punch out mandrel drill out head) Grind down the factory "blind" rivets on the inside of the tunnel flush with the skin. Don't drill anything on those, then tap a plastic paint scraper or trim tool between the plate and the tunnel, the plates will pop right off completely reusable to boot.
Overall it's a project but I think it looks sharp and strong.
Overall it's a project but I think it looks sharp and strong.
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