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2014 Pro Rmk Silber Reflash Final Adjustments

Hey Guys,


I'm headed out to Revelstoke this next Wednesday. I just finished doing the ECU reflash with bigger primary injectors, eliminating the fuel controller and secondarys. I also did the oil pump delete upgrade last year. Just wondering if there is any final adjustments or tweaking that needs to be done before I make the trip out there?? Are there any common issues guys have been having? There is no snow in SK right now to test it out and want to make sure the sled is 100% before I get there!


Thanks
 
we just finished the install on a friends, only a short ride but seems to be spot on and it rips right out of the box, sooooo nice not having any of that piggyback/dial in adjust crap:face-icon-small-dis def pull and go so far :face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-coo
 
Ordered a kit from Cory here on the forums hoping it works as good as you guys say have fun in revelstoke and please let us know how it works thanks brad
 
Hey Guys,


I'm headed out to Revelstoke this next Wednesday. I just finished doing the ECU reflash with bigger primary injectors, eliminating the fuel controller and secondarys. I also did the oil pump delete upgrade last year. Just wondering if there is any final adjustments or tweaking that needs to be done before I make the trip out there?? Are there any common issues guys have been having? There is no snow in SK right now to test it out and want to make sure the sled is 100% before I get there!


Thanks

So long as you have no exhaust leaks, everything is installed to spec and your clutching is setup per Silber's suggestions you should be absolutely $$$. I am yet to hear of one ECU reflash that didn't just plain work. Even me, a lowly web dev guy installed and rode one without issue.
 
when you get this done what level of boost are you running? And if you want to increase boost do you need a reflash again?
 
when you get this done what level of boost are you running? And if you want to increase boost do you need a reflash again?

I believe the map is built around 7 psi but its able to handle different boost levels without an additional reflash. (I ran mine at 5 and the guy I sold it to is at 10 without issue). I believe if you want to go higher Justin has a special map that retards timing slightly to help keep things happy. But I could be wrong.

The incredible part about utilizing the factory ECU is its able to take into account variables in a dynamic sense that is otherwise impossible for most of the tuner boxes/parallel ECUs (less Impulse) to do.
 
My friends is at 8psi and we could go to 10 I think. I really can't say enough that this is the best way to do a kit, factory ecu is totally the way to go on these things, hopefully others follow suit. We installed it in about half a day taking it real slow and easy, everything fit perfect with no issues.

PA190002.jpg
 
I believe the map is built around 7 psi but its able to handle different boost levels without an additional reflash. (I ran mine at 5 and the guy I sold it to is at 10 without issue). I believe if you want to go higher Justin has a special map that retards timing slightly to help keep things happy. But I could be wrong.

The incredible part about utilizing the factory ECU is its able to take into account variables in a dynamic sense that is otherwise impossible for most of the tuner boxes/parallel ECUs (less Impulse) to do.

With efi you don't need to adjust the tune at all, as long as you stay under the maximum level it was tuned to. So if it is tuned to 10psi, you can run anything up to 10 psi without changing the tune.
 
With efi you don't need to adjust the tune at all, as long as you stay under the maximum level it was tuned to. So if it is tuned to 10psi, you can run anything up to 10 psi without changing the tune.

I think this is what my bad writing was trying to say ;)

The only reason a further tune may be necessary would be to add something additional to the map due to higher boost. (again, such as retarding ignition for those crazy 12+psi full 110 intercooler setups out there.)
 
you need Corey's phone # :face-icon-small-win

the abilty to adjust clutch weights on the hill would be handy

let us know how it goes
 
Hey Guys,


I'm headed out to Revelstoke this next Wednesday. I just finished doing the ECU reflash with bigger primary injectors, eliminating the fuel controller and secondarys. I also did the oil pump delete upgrade last year. Just wondering if there is any final adjustments or tweaking that needs to be done before I make the trip out there?? Are there any common issues guys have been having? There is no snow in SK right now to test it out and want to make sure the sled is 100% before I get there!


Thanks

Trying to understand this concept, haven't heard anything on this till I read your post, but the oil pump delete upgrade. Are you just mixing oil into your fuel or is there something else. Enlighten me!!!!! I like to hear what others are doing out there. I am trying to talk MOM into a TURBO (Silber is what I am really interested in), but I spent my allowance with a much needed enclosed trailer!!!
 
Send me a PM and I'll get you my number. All Silber kits can be run from 3-15 pounds or even higher if you like without another reflash.

No such thing as a base kit with us. You get either an internal or external wastegate turbo with everything needed for the same price or lower than the stripped down kits from other guys.
 
So if one tune can run that wide of psi range is there some sort of sensor that detects boost elevation and temp and adds or subtracts more fuel automatically?
 
Check all wiring make sure its not rubbing on anything. Do the same with each of the components to the kit. Intake and boost tube are not touching any thing that could cause a wear rub through. One other item is your oil hose that goes to the turbo. Dont allow any extra hose to hang close to turbo housing it will melt the and your turbo will burn up very quickly.
 
well just got back from Revy. Snow was pretty chewed up but still managed to find some untouched areas with good snow :face-icon-small-coo. The sled pulls really hard when I had it spooled up. But had a few burps and sputters in and out of the throttle and from a near stand still. After getting ahold of Justin, I found out I had the clutch weighted way too heavy. for around 7-9 psi up in the mountains they recommend about 75.5 gs. I'm almost positive this was what caused all of my issues. So will report back after my next trip out West!
 
Trying to understand this concept, haven't heard anything on this till I read your post, but the oil pump delete upgrade. Are you just mixing oil into your fuel or is there something else. Enlighten me!!!!! I like to hear what others are doing out there. I am trying to talk MOM into a TURBO (Silber is what I am really interested in), but I spent my allowance with a much needed enclosed trailer!!!


It deletes the oil pump for the turbo. Mine came with it pre-installed, perhaps they all do now? It has a small fitting on the oil inlet and a block off plate on the drain. You take the bottom plate of the sled and reroute a t-fitting on the oil lines so one goes to the crankcase and one goes up to the turbo to provide oil. Fill the turbo with oil, bleed the air from the line and go.
 
Just got back from my second trip out West to Valemount, BC. With 75.5 gs in the primary and 7-10 psi boost (depending on the snow and elevation), the sled absolutely ripped! Worked very clean. Next to no sputters or bogs. Had the odd one in and out of the throttle, but they were few and far inbetween. This sled will go anywhere, it's unreal. Thumbs up to Silber Turbos, they have always been very helpful with any questions I've had, and were quick to answer their phones. Thanks guys!
 
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