2013 Sway Bar Removed
- Thread starter tylerm
- Start date
i took my sway bar out on '12
I love it, it sucks on the trail but then again trails suck. I run fox float 2 on the front so I just adjust them to the snow conditions each ride out. No joke...I really do hate trails.
I love it, it sucks on the trail but then again trails suck. I run fox float 2 on the front so I just adjust them to the snow conditions each ride out. No joke...I really do hate trails.
After riding a M without a swaybar for the last 7 years it felt weird to me to have it. I gave it a half a day and hated it. All I did so far was get a pin that fits in place of the bolt and pulled it when we were out west and then zip tied that plastic arm back to the sway bar. Riding ditches and trails at home I like having it in.
you have to be kidding
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rmscustom
Well-known member
Nope. Cutting skis is not a new trick, can't say I've ever seen it on grippers before mine but don't knock it unless you've tried it.
It's definitely a better option than unhooking the sway bar and having 2/3 of you shock travel used up with the sled resting on its edge.
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I've seen it in many powder pro's for years, and on one pair of grippers besides yours, couldn't bring myself to do it. Been looking at some pp's so maybe ill give it a try for some spring riding.
Any issues with it not wanting to hold the line in set up snow?
Any issues with it not wanting to hold the line in set up snow?
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HenkeEdge
Active member
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rmscustom
Well-known member
I haven't had a problem but i haven't been in anything really hard.
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snobyrd
Well-known member
i installed a set of raptors, set the spring rate to soft, removed the bar, and its hands down easier to roll, the front end dont feel planted, i also have sly dog skies and steering effort is very easy. i rode a compleate stocker last weekend and i couldnt believe how planted it felt with a bar and stock stiff springs. I see no advantage of a bar in the powder.
I just sold my 2010 M-8 for a new 13 Pro RMK 800. I rode Polaris for years (buying a new one every year or two) before going to the M, but I have to say...the M8 was easyer to boondock with. Granted, I only have 30 miles on the new sled but it is way more planted than the M. I dont want to pull the sway bar. I like everything else about the new Pro. I just need some more time/ miles on it. Man I hate the new paint smell on the pipes.
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Slightly off topic but try messing with the skid. Set the rear track shock to speck for your weight, and give the front track shock about 3/4"-1" of pre-load. If its too nimble and tippy with a tenancy to trench back off a little on it, to planted increase it a little. Two threads makes a world of differance.
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geo
Well-known member
What he said.
I think the difference in feel between the 12 and 13 is all in the RTS dampening not so much the IFS and it's sway bar. Middle is the same.
It's like someone said during testing these things wheely too much on the hill so they added some compression and took away a little rebound on the RTS. Added stability and control at full throttle, took away a little fun at part throttle.
I'm 220 plus gear and I run about 2 to 3 turns less than out-of-the-box which is quite a bit softer than the book tells me to run. Zero bottoming at speed and only occasional bottoming on slow speed drop ins. That's just the way it should be.
If your lighter than me or ride only powder a good inexpensive upgrade is 85 lb IFS springs from a Doo and a 120-130 lb FTS spring. Start with about 1/2" of preload on these then tune.
Dampening ain't bad but plan on fresh oil in these WE's about every 500 to 700 miles if you pound them. First one is the most important.
On mine one front shock lost it's nitrogen because of sand in the chamber (needed a hone), the other front shock had 1/2" slivers of aluminum in the valving, the RTS lost it's nitrogen because the lower mount came loose from no locktite applied and the FTS had the piston set so high it contacted and damaged the rebound valves on the piston.
I consider shock oil changes as regular maintenace because of how I ride but IMO, WE's are not quite up to Fox standards. But the parts do interchange.
So are you saying to have 3/4" to 1" of threads showing on the front skid shock? This will lighten the front the tighter the spring correct?
That's what he is saying. A little more than specified on the FTS and I go for a little less on the RTS. As flyingtiger said having the FTS a little tighter will lighten up the front end. You could even lengthen your limiter strap but you could possibly trench more. I then loosen my ski shocks as much as possible so that the collars still have enough tension to keep them on(maybe an inch of thread). Skis in the narrower position helps as well.
This all depends on your weight though. I'm 190 all geared up so I like my suspension pretty soft compared to big dudes.
That is correct. I didn't see the need to losten the limiter strap, but the Fts adjustments will turn the sled into a completely different amimal.
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