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2013 proclimb BD turbo numbers

Just curious if anyone has put some miles on their 2013 Boondocker turbo kit for the proclimb yet? I am wanting to know how the starting numbers are. Of course BD says they are great, but I would like to here from some people that aren't so biased! I had an 09 kit of theirs but this controller is way different with the built in EBC and the 3D mapping. Lets here what people are running into.
 
Not sure on the new pro climb kit, I am in the same boat as you I had the older kit with the ebc. However my buddy has the new kit for the 2013 pro it flat out rips and he hasn't touched a button since the first ride.
 
Update

Do you mean Polaris Pro?? I went out yesterday and the numbers are plenty rich!!!! Go figure. Also the EBC does not work on mine or another 2013 turbo kit. I am still trying to figure that out. I had to screw in my actuator to get to 6 psi before the sled would even come close to running because the 80 gram weights they send in the kit will only turn 7200 at 4 psi of boost. Not too impressed so far. I will be making some calls to Boondocker tomorrow. I will keep everone informed.
 
Just spent my first two days on my new BD kit. I too was unsure of numbers. As for the weights. At seven lbs 10k elevation I was at 8150 in a pull. The clutching is pretty damn close. I was a little bit lean on the top so I went up on 7500 and 8200 on the 66 and 99. Then today it seemed a bit boggy and had more lag than it should have so I leaned down the rpm5500 33 66 99 two and the psi5500 the same. That adjustment alone made the lag virtually disappear.


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Wondering if anyone has the original #s for the 3d box?


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Do all the 2012/2013 BD kits come with secondary injectors, or only on the race gas kits?
 
As far as I know they all have secondaries. I think you have choices between intercoolers and wastegates


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All of their kits come with secondary injectors now. Trying to get a copy of the starting numbers is almost impossible I have found. I have been in and called several times. The only instructions they have for that box are for a Polaris Pro. I am a little dissappointed in that. I took pictures of the numbers and put them in my phone for later if needed and started to tune from there. The mid rand boost seems a little lean and the very top end I had to add fuel as well. I am still having issues with the boost controller. Hoping to get that figured out soon.
 
I found the same thing. I got my kit thru justin at Code Red. he is supposed to be emailing the original numbers and instructions for the Cat box to me. not sure when they will show up though. is there any way you can send the pics of the original #s to me? i would like to see where i am at. I will PM you my #. Thanks
 
I think I got it tuned pretty well today. Only thing I'm fighting is the lag. If I pin it, boost is about 4-5 seconds away. Once it's there it stays and I can play with the throttle quite a bit. What are some suggestions? I think I may need to go to an actual turbo weight to get more rpms quicker?


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lag

first thing that popped into my mind was helix too steep starting angle, but i sapose secondary is stock 36 helix. then was which actuator are u using if adjustable may have it turned out to far ,making it hold back for boost then wham u get boost .
 
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I have a team tied, I don't remember which helix it is, but I have a friend with a cutler and a friend with another boondocker, same helix, and they build boost instantly. It is the basic actuator, not a tial, I also thought about that but I talked to jerrod at boondockers and he said it should have been adjusted right from the factory. Should I turn it in a couple and see if it helps?


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gate

check the gate to see if at rest the actuator is holding it shut all the way , on my 2010 I had to adjust it so it held it closed, and your actuator is the non adjustable standard one? what turbo did you get gt 2860 or gtx 2860-63 just curious .
 
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gate

take the circlip off and see if its holding it closed.if not loosen jam nut turn it in till it just holds it closed with alittle pressure . haven't used the team tied ,so no help there.
 
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It is the 2860. The waste gate is adjustable. When I got the kit there was a piece of the impeller wheel missing so I replaced the center section, maybe the adjustment was changed in that process. I hope I can get it fingered, because this lag stuff sucks!
tyduzu4a.jpg



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It is the 2860. The waste gate is adjustable. When I got the kit there was a piece of the impeller wheel missing so I replaced the center section, maybe the adjustment was changed in that process. I hope I can get it fingered, because this lag stuff sucks!
tyduzu4a.jpg



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ouch!!! yep i'd double check it then. just getting finished with mine 2863 tial fired it off today still need to finish up mounts and gauges.and figure out why my tether won't work.
 
I'm just glad I noticed it before install. I think that chip would have taken it out of balance too much that it probably would have grenaded. Thanks for your help!


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Actuator was holding the waste gate 1/3 open. I adjusted it to 1/2 hole too short. Works great now


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Update

I talked with Jared and discussed the EBC function and it looks like with the 4 psi actuator it throws off the ebc. I am running about 2 psi less than what the boost is set at on the box so I just compensate by 2 psi for what I want to run for boost.

Also has anyone ever run into fueling issues pulling a 2000 ft climb? My 09 was terrible for leaning out as I climbed till I plugged the baro tube on the ecu. I tried the same trick on my 13 and sure enough consistent fueling all the way to the top of the hill. When I spoke with Jared he acknowledged my findings. Just wondering why I don't here more about this issue. I have to set my fueling AFR to be in the 10-11 range to be in the high 12's at the top of the hill. If I plug the tube I can set my AFR in the 12's and it will stay there during the whole climb.

I would love to hear any comments on this.
 
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