Summer of '86
Ahhhh......good times
Ahhhh......good times
2012 Proclimb Down For The Count
- Thread starter s2h
- Start date
R
ReaperMotorsports
Well-known member
Ive found on many exhaust systems that grade 8 bolts will come loose and what fixes the problem was using a lower grade bolt and that would keep the bolts on the exhaust from coming loose. Just what ive found out over time
Looks like it must have been the crank case vent after all. After spending 24 hours in the shop warming up the sled will not reproduce the problem. Have put on 15 miles and now and everything is working great. Leak down test showed that there was no issues with the head gaskets.
Its a weird problem and I don't think I would have ever figured it out without the information I received on this post so a big thanks to you all.
Now in cold temperatures, like we get here in Saskatchewan, I am worried about the crank case vent freezing up again. My buddy SADS has suggested installing a hand warmer right next to the elbow where the vent is plumbed in to the plastic elbow to the turbo. I think it is a great and super easy idea. Does anyone have any thoughts on this solution to prevent this from happening again when I ride my mountain sled around home on the cold flatlands?
Its a weird problem and I don't think I would have ever figured it out without the information I received on this post so a big thanks to you all.
Now in cold temperatures, like we get here in Saskatchewan, I am worried about the crank case vent freezing up again. My buddy SADS has suggested installing a hand warmer right next to the elbow where the vent is plumbed in to the plastic elbow to the turbo. I think it is a great and super easy idea. Does anyone have any thoughts on this solution to prevent this from happening again when I ride my mountain sled around home on the cold flatlands?
Just cannot beleive that the heat from the motor compartment and the heat coming off the head will not keep from freezing.
Where is the mouisture coming from?
I ran last week in -10F with a low of -22F... no issues in the morning as I did pull the hood inside the trailer to check after reading this...
keep us posted of your findings.... A block heater from Cat works wonders overnight, as one of our riders had one plugged in....
BTW this KILLS them light weight batteries ( the cold temps)
S/C
WMP llc
Where is the mouisture coming from?
I ran last week in -10F with a low of -22F... no issues in the morning as I did pull the hood inside the trailer to check after reading this...
keep us posted of your findings.... A block heater from Cat works wonders overnight, as one of our riders had one plugged in....
BTW this KILLS them light weight batteries ( the cold temps)
S/C
WMP llc
I uesd the blank fitting on the factory plastic elbow to attach the crank case breather to. I used a ruber hose with a sharp 90 bend and then straight back to the roll over valve. I am almost sure that the freezing is taking place right in the plastic elbow fitting or at the sharp 90 degree bend right beside the factory elbow. With -20 plus degree air flowing through that plastic elbow for an hour straight I can see how some freezing could occur. The 90 degree rubber hose does sit right against the hood as far away from a heat source as possible.
So two thoughts. One is a hand warmer on the crank case vent line right next to the cold air intake. the other is a perssure release valve in line after the roll over valve that would "blow off" if the pressure in the crank case starts to build up due to a frozen or blocked vent line. Any thoughts?
So two thoughts. One is a hand warmer on the crank case vent line right next to the cold air intake. the other is a perssure release valve in line after the roll over valve that would "blow off" if the pressure in the crank case starts to build up due to a frozen or blocked vent line. Any thoughts?
H
Hillclimbpro
Well-known member
The amount of air these engines move will freeze anything up in short order if moisture is present. Since new, my machine always has had milkey/oiley residue in that vent line, and of course with the cold air being hooked direct to that, it's sucking all that crap up to a sharp 90* elbow, building up and freezing shut. I have never had this happen until a -30 *C ride over Christmas, and again when ripping on the trail at 60mph for 20 minutes straight to get to the riding area in valemount.
My idea was to remove that 90* fitting, and put a straight barbed fitting directly into that cold air. As such, you will need to rotate that lower portion of the cold air so that the hose can go into the existing hole for the 90*. Less restriction in the vent line should mean less chance of freezing.
Norlock washers work good too! Picked mine up at Fastenal.
Is there a reason
Why you couldn't put a automotive type crank case breather on instead of putting it in the cold air intake manifold? Well that's what i am going to try. I used them on my race bike motors all the time, just not at subzero temperatures.
Why you couldn't put a automotive type crank case breather on instead of putting it in the cold air intake manifold? Well that's what i am going to try. I used them on my race bike motors all the time, just not at subzero temperatures.
H
Hillclimbpro
Well-known member
I was told that the moisture coming out of the crank case over night or while parked after riding would freeze in the filter because the moisture couldn't escape and then would not let the crank case breathe the next day.
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When using filters on the end of the breather, be sure to locate it in a fairly dry area. Otherwise melting snow can water soak it and freeze the filter overnight in cold weather, as mentioned above.
Another option is to route a long hose off of the ROV valve down towards the bottom of belly pan, and then leave the end of the hose open (no filter). Several of the boosted Yammy kits have been doing it this way for years.
A couple of things to keep in mind are,
1) Be sure and have the hose terminate off of the belly pan floor, so that it doesn't sit in snow/water.
2) Because a small amout of oil mist can exit from the breather during engine operation. Keep the hose anyway from the clutch/belt area and away from the exhaust system.
3) When doing custom installations, position the ROV valve so that the solenoid end of valve is angled upwards at least at a 45 degree angle. Straight up is ok also and connect the 90 degree fitting to the hose that is routed to the engine.
Once the engine starts to warm up, the air that is flowing out through the breather will be warm. Due to the warm/hot engine block, hot oil in the oil tank, etc.
-30C Brrrrrrrrrr!!!
Bill
Another option is to route a long hose off of the ROV valve down towards the bottom of belly pan, and then leave the end of the hose open (no filter). Several of the boosted Yammy kits have been doing it this way for years.
A couple of things to keep in mind are,
1) Be sure and have the hose terminate off of the belly pan floor, so that it doesn't sit in snow/water.
2) Because a small amout of oil mist can exit from the breather during engine operation. Keep the hose anyway from the clutch/belt area and away from the exhaust system.
3) When doing custom installations, position the ROV valve so that the solenoid end of valve is angled upwards at least at a 45 degree angle. Straight up is ok also and connect the 90 degree fitting to the hose that is routed to the engine.
Once the engine starts to warm up, the air that is flowing out through the breather will be warm. Due to the warm/hot engine block, hot oil in the oil tank, etc.
-30C Brrrrrrrrrr!!!
Bill
B
bigstick
Member
I have had the same problem with my sled. I was riding hard and all of the sudden there was smoke coming out of the hood. I stopped and took the side panel off and there was oil everywhere. I let the sled cool off and rode it back to the road and when I did it was popping and back firing all the time when u got into the throttle. It still does it I have no idea why. It runs good stock but with the boondocker on it spits and pops like its hitting the rev limiter when you punch it. Does ANYONE who what the heck is going on Cause my dealer sure doesn't.
Well off to Revy on Saturday for 5 days of riding. Can't wait. Sled is running fine. I have not changed where my crank case breather is plumbed in to the intake as I haven't had a problem when out in BC. We installed a cold air intake throught the hood on my buddies 2012 1100t last night and plumbed the breather in to the intake elbow on the side closer to the motor. we will see who's performs better. Hopefully no more freezing up. Thanks again for the input and I will let you guys know if I encounter any more problems.
Regards,
S2H
Regards,
S2H
so first day in Revy. made it 21 miles and blew a belt at half throttle boondocking in the trees. clutches were so hot that it sizzled my skin like touching a frying pan when i accidentally bumped one with the back of my hand changing the belt. Then when installing the bolt for the secondary the bolt stripped out and messed up all the threads. managed to rig up a temp fix and limp it out of the back country. bought a tap in town, cleaned up the threads and was almost back up and running when i noticed more melting of my intercooler fan. after taking more stuff apart it was aparent that the gasket between the turbo and the up pipe was blown out and I am dumping exhaust gasses under the hood.
could this have anything to do with my crazy clutch temps. both the primary and the secondary were soooooo hot. Is there any place to get my hands on a setup team clutch out here? i might as well just buy one as I can't support the costs of the nearly 300 dollare belts.
Anyways so here i sit in Revy needing a gasket, a secondary bolt and potentially a whole new secondary clutch so i can go riding. anyone have any ideas on how to get me back on the trail? the dealership in salmonarm is closed tomorrow so no luck getting parts there. grrrrrrrr
could this have anything to do with my crazy clutch temps. both the primary and the secondary were soooooo hot. Is there any place to get my hands on a setup team clutch out here? i might as well just buy one as I can't support the costs of the nearly 300 dollare belts.
Anyways so here i sit in Revy needing a gasket, a secondary bolt and potentially a whole new secondary clutch so i can go riding. anyone have any ideas on how to get me back on the trail? the dealership in salmonarm is closed tomorrow so no luck getting parts there. grrrrrrrr
Didn't see this today, if I had a team here I'd get one to you but I didn't get my second order last week due to a shortage of the floating plugs. Lucky if I see them by the end of this week.
I had a feeling you would find an exhaust leak if you were melting plastic. The luck sucks for sure.
I had a feeling you would find an exhaust leak if you were melting plastic. The luck sucks for sure.
well ditched the gasket between the turbo and up pipe. bolted it flange to flange so I could ride. bought a bolt from the hardware shop and made it work. rode all day but the sled smelled like super hot melting plastic. couldn't find any more melitng plastic but sled smelled weird all day. didn't blow a belt but it was socked in and there weren't any more than 3 second wide open hits on the throttle to help me out of the ..... well less than desireable situations we sometimes find ourselves in. gasket will be in by 6 tomorrow as well as proper secondary bolt. also ordered one 1/4 inch longer to allow for more threads available when changing the belt.
gonna ride keystone tomorrow. have 4 belts with me if its nice and we can play hard. still wanting a better secondary of that will help my situation. but at least i was riding today instead of hanging in the hot tub.
S2H
gonna ride keystone tomorrow. have 4 belts with me if its nice and we can play hard. still wanting a better secondary of that will help my situation. but at least i was riding today instead of hanging in the hot tub.
S2H
so sled ran pretty good for the day. adjusted the alignment and didn't blow a belt so that is good. super deep powder all day but terrible visibility.
so now a new question. my buddy picked up a 2012 from my dealer brand new 2 weeks ago. every ride it intermittently shuts off, stalls while idleing and randomy cuts out bogs out while climbing hills or coming down hills. he has a cold air intake throught the hood, evo brv and intercooler fan and will be getting a 215 flash when we return home from this trip.
Dealer pulled all wiring connections and applied dialectric grease, the fuel tank vent was pinched so that was fixed as well. so what could the issue be. we are riding with the owner of the dealership it was bought from and we are very confused. sled has only 200 miles on it now. any thoughts??
so now a new question. my buddy picked up a 2012 from my dealer brand new 2 weeks ago. every ride it intermittently shuts off, stalls while idleing and randomy cuts out bogs out while climbing hills or coming down hills. he has a cold air intake throught the hood, evo brv and intercooler fan and will be getting a 215 flash when we return home from this trip.
Dealer pulled all wiring connections and applied dialectric grease, the fuel tank vent was pinched so that was fixed as well. so what could the issue be. we are riding with the owner of the dealership it was bought from and we are very confused. sled has only 200 miles on it now. any thoughts??
Has it done this since new or do you know the history of the sled? Does it have a tether?
done it since new. didn't change when we installed the roll over module he bought from you.
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