Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2012 pro 800 bog/misfire/dropping cylinder??

BPR9EIX is the iridium plug, I believe. The first three are the same only the last three change and that is EIX for sure. Been on Ski-doo this year so I don't remember the first three any more. It was great plug. SLP actually recommend the iridium plug if you can find it.
 
When it drops a cylinder, reach in and unplug the TMAP sensor and hook it back up(while it is running). If it comes back it's your sensor or pins in the connector or wire. The other intermittent could be the ethanol plug, swap with a buddy.
 
FWIW, I found the iridiums more prone to oil fouling, but less to carbon fouling. Until you get the oil figured out, stick with non-iridiums. You've got lots of oil getting blown out of the cylinders.
 
Missfire

I experienced a similar problem with my 2012 PRO, I use iridium plugs as well. I pulled a code low voltage to mag side injector. Long story short I replaced the injectors as they come complete and the sled seems to run fine. I have 1700 miles with 130lbs compression. I hope this helps
 
I've read on here there's a place to send an injector harness with injectors for testing, if I remember right. Not sure.


Almost seems like I could just remove them and check for blockage, or does it need to get more precise than that? Flow and pressure measurements, etc?

Couple places, but this is the one I have used for the past 5 years.

WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing

www.witchhunter.com
 
I'm sure you checked/pulled on your plug wires and caps to see if they are loose. Also inspected the plug wires for wear down to the core.
 
I plan on replacing the plug wires. Every time I checked them out, the dielectric grease was black.


What's the recommended set to go with? OEM, arctic cat, SLP?
 
Compression check/engine at room temp/sea level

PTO- 105
MAG-109

Pulled plug wires, they look good. Longer I think about it, more it sounds like injectors.

Do the injectors have a history of intermittently failing?
 
I have 2012 too and was having very similar issues at the very end of last season. I replaced my pistons and rings, sent my injectors off to Witchhunter to be cleaned and flow tested, changed my fuel filter and cleaned my exhaust valves in the off season. I don't know which one of those things it was, but I no longer have that problem anymore. If I had to guess I would say it was an injector.
 
Compression check/engine at room temp/sea level

PTO- 105
MAG-109

Pulled plug wires, they look good. Longer I think about it, more it sounds like injectors.

Do the injectors have a history of intermittently failing?

I'm still going to say you need a rebuild. My 2011 was 5psi different and that's what was wrong. I changed plug wires, reeds, and injectors before I gave up and decided it was time. You describe EXACTLY what I chased for 2 seasons before rebuilding, like I said it ran like a peach after the rebuild.
 
It's just the engine is so quick to drop a cylinder, then come back. It's like a switch. :bowl:

Well, I'll go on a few more rides and see. Does the computer store engine lights? I could've swore I looked down to check rpm when it dropped a cylinder once, and saw the check engine light flicker.
 
Your 11 lb's from optimal in one cylinder and 15 in the other. Everyone is saying pistons and injector cleaning solved they're similar problem. Think that is the direction I would of headed, either way it needs new pistons. Your trying to get something to run optimum that isn't in "optimum" spec.

Everyone I know that have dropped a skirt on 11-12's reported being down in the 110 or lower compression ranging and erratic running issues. Do pistons now or do a cylinder, crank, cases, etc, etc etc., later. Again easy decision for me.

Witchhunter can rush your injectors and have them back to you in days.
 
It's just the engine is so quick to drop a cylinder, then come back. It's like a switch. :bowl:

Well, I'll go on a few more rides and see. Does the computer store engine lights? I could've swore I looked down to check rpm when it dropped a cylinder once, and saw the check engine light flicker.

I had the same exact symptoms on my '12 800 for 2 rides when it was almost new, only 1-200 mi. Totally random and not temp, snow or load dependent. Happened on the trail, climbing or on/off throttle riding. Ran great 90% of the day and would drop a cyl randomly.
Seemed like a short somewhere. Pulled alert every elect connector I could find and put dielectric grease in them.
Hasn't happened again, but I only got like 600 mi on it lol.
 
I'm just going to tear it down this summer. Been contemplating a turbo anyways.

Until then, if I find what it is, I'll report it.
 
Had the same thing happen on my 13. Cleaned exhaust valves, replaced fuel filter, and cleaned the clutches. All good again.... my main guess would be exhaust valves gummed up. Make sure to clean out the 1/16" port that runs from the cylinder up to the valves.
 
You say it's dropping a cylinder. Does the DET light come on when it does? If so then the computer may be reducing the engine output, not the cylinder.
 
My 13 started doing this Saturday. Running along great then randomly drop a cylinder, engine light on whenever it's on one cyl. Back out to below 4K rpm, and whack it. Then it'd be fine for a bit. It was doing it climbing and going down the trail. Just felt like it shut off one hole. When it was on both, it felt as strong as normal. I've got about 1400 miles on the oe pistons so I know I'm due but this doesn't seem to me like it's piston related? We still have some decent snow but i wanna figure this out before I go up again.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top