I haven't had the update yet, but I went out on sunday and my rpms were down alot, got it home and pulled the clutch apart to find a broken spring. A sacked spring could be a possibility.
2009 with updates running good but....
- Thread starter dub
- Start date
I haven't had the update yet, but I went out on sunday and my rpms were down alot, got it home and pulled the clutch apart to find a broken spring. A sacked spring could be a possibility.
I've only got about 60 miles on the new update. The ride was around 4000' to 5000' and 38 degrees outside. The first part of the ride the sled didn't seem to perform all that well but it really seemed to come on during the last half of the ride and I think that it is currently running as good as it ever has. It an 08, and I agree with someone about that my 08 ran better on top than it did with the 09 update, but in 08 it had a really bad stumble in the mid range that was just BAD. Any way it does seem to be fat at start up. I have actually flooded this updated motor when it didn't start on the second pull and had to hold the throttle wide open to get it to start. I also notice that it starts better with the throttle crack just a touch like my old 800 carb sled which it didn't need before the update so there maybe something to this being a little fat at Idle or maybe loading up a bit from the start up circuit.
So far I am happy to have a sled that runs like an 800.
So far I am happy to have a sled that runs like an 800.
I ran mine last sunday (rmk dragon 163- 800 2009 with 2010 update) and got the check engine coming on and flashing at least ten times. I have a slp pipe and can, I had half of my tank of gas that was old gas from last april and I filled up the tank with new gas....I know the dealer added some oil as well.
After everytime that my check engine was flashing, it went into limp mode (cutting under 6000rpm) as stated in the recall letter...I know this was de DET....so I shut off the sled and turned it on again and was able to get back normally.
It did that may be 8 times within the first 20 miles......and about 3-4 times during the last 30 miles..... it seemed to improve as I was running????
between the check engine lights...the sled would run perfectly, crisp and clean.....8100-8150 rpm.....engine temp never exceeded 129F.
My dealer told me that it is probably due to my old gas and believes it should be ok on my next tank of gas....
We ride at about 1000 feet here.....
what do you guys think?
Also, I have read that slp can is ok with the update but not the pipe....is that true?
thanks for your input
Stephan
After everytime that my check engine was flashing, it went into limp mode (cutting under 6000rpm) as stated in the recall letter...I know this was de DET....so I shut off the sled and turned it on again and was able to get back normally.
It did that may be 8 times within the first 20 miles......and about 3-4 times during the last 30 miles..... it seemed to improve as I was running????
between the check engine lights...the sled would run perfectly, crisp and clean.....8100-8150 rpm.....engine temp never exceeded 129F.
My dealer told me that it is probably due to my old gas and believes it should be ok on my next tank of gas....
We ride at about 1000 feet here.....
what do you guys think?
Also, I have read that slp can is ok with the update but not the pipe....is that true?
thanks for your input
Stephan
D
dub
Well-known member
I am going to try the Lucas octane booster next ride... Will see what happens..
I just pulled the exhaust valves and everything looks good on the pistons, and valves are clean. Did a compression test stone cold and this big whopper pulls about 105psi!
BTW I run at 3-7,000' elevation and sled has pipe, reeds, MBRP can, and a custom intake. Has ALWAYS run great till now!
I just pulled the exhaust valves and everything looks good on the pistons, and valves are clean. Did a compression test stone cold and this big whopper pulls about 105psi!
BTW I run at 3-7,000' elevation and sled has pipe, reeds, MBRP can, and a custom intake. Has ALWAYS run great till now!
Anyone have a pic of the ethonal wires and location so I can check? Put about 40 miles on it on Sunday seemed to run OK but down on RPM totally stock.Snow was wet powder so that could be the low RPM Problem. Ran it down the road for about the first 15 miles tryed to break it in easy they got in the powder in the afternoon.
The wires are under your belt in that plastic housing above your clutches. I have never ran mine with the ethenol setting and its been a while since I have had it apart to look around but if I remember right when you pull the cover it is fairly easy to spot. If somebody knows more or if I totally blew that one chip in....
I have around 160 miles on the update and it seems to be pulling harder every ride!!! Would like the RPM's to end up around 8300 on a pull with a load on the track (SLP setup) and the first ride was around 7900. Slowly crawling towards the 8100 mark......
remember to mix in isopropyl based fuel stabilisator in your fuel .. if you run whit non-ethanol based fuel "premium"
to avoid ice build in the fuel system !
to avoid ice build in the fuel system !
D
deepdiver
Well-known member
on the second warm up(on a different day) sled idle rpm went a bit lower and it started to backfire..by the time I got to it only the mag side was firing. Pulled plugs and both were wet..I was surprised that the mag side was even still firing..changed the plugs.
I think there is just a lot of oil in the tank in addition to the richer fuel mixtures....until this premix tank is gone who knows. Carry extra plugs with you. Last year after a rebuild I fouled 6 sets of plugs getting off the mountain and the next tank all was fine.
I think there is just a lot of oil in the tank in addition to the richer fuel mixtures....until this premix tank is gone who knows. Carry extra plugs with you. Last year after a rebuild I fouled 6 sets of plugs getting off the mountain and the next tank all was fine.
Old gas could certainly be the problem or part of the problem. I have a slp pipe and can and I didn't ever go into limp mode but I am also running around 4000 ft. I would talk to SLP about the pipe at 1000 ft and see what they think but I wouldn't think that it is part of the problem. Get some good gas and try again, then if you have issues I would have the dealer check for the throttle position Sensor and the fuel selection wire configuration. The limp mode likely indicates some form of detonation which can be timing related or fuel related or both. It could also be compression related but since the new head didn't increase the compression on these motors I would rule this out and that is also the reason I don't think it is your pipe; however not to say you weren't getting mild detonation before and now with the new more sensitive setting it is picking it up.
Had my 09 out with the 2010 update. Put close to 100 miles on it. First day out it was sluggish, with the extra oil in the tank. Diluted the oil with straight gas over the course of the day. Ran consistently better during the first day, but would not hit over 7900 rpm. By midday of the second day it would pull 8100 and on the trail down it would hit 8400 with no problems. Runs strong, climbs well but am still going to put a PC3 on it
Hope this helps..
Good work on getting this in there. If anyone is looking for the same pic, the 2010 owners manuals are available on the Polaris Website in pdf format. They are very handy. If you want to check something specific in the manual you can quickly search the pdf using a keyword search. This is much faster than flipping through the pages and table of contents looking for information. Of course, this can only be done in the comforts of home. On the trail, you'll want to have your hard copy manual in your backpack or trunk bag for reference if something goes wrong.
Back to the location of the ethanol wires...I have a 2010 800 Dragon Switchback. If you take the left side panel off to expose the clutches, the wires are right near the secondary clutch attached to a larger wiring harness. They will be unplugged by default, which, according to the manual, is the safest if you are in question about whether or not the fuel you are running contains ethanol.
Happy sledding guys and gals!!
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Dub, I've been following your thread. I have a 2010 D8 Switchback. I have about 200 miles on it right now. It seems to load up a bit and stutter a bit on the bottom end (5500-7000 rpm). It has done this from day one. I'm thinking it is running a bit fouly due to the additional oil for break-in. i changed the plugs, which helped but not perfect yet. Although, it isn't uncommom to foul a few sets of plugs until the additional oil works all the way through. From what i've read, these sleds run on the rich side anyway so maybe the lower rpm's will always be an issue.
As for the top end, i had the same problem as many of the guys on this thread. My check engine light kept flashing once the revs got past 7000 rpm...this got really annoying. My sled went into limp-home mode three times in one day. I talked to two separate dealers and they mentioned that they have received a ton of these complaints and it is almost always an fuel quality issue. Once I found this out, I put a bottle of octane booster in and within an hour the sled ran perfect (except the rough bottom end thing). It pulled strong right through to 8400 rpm on and off trail. I was impressed with the performance!!
To tackle the rough performance in the lower rpm's, I'm going to try a race-quality octane booster tomorrow. The brand is Torco. They call it an accelerator for your fuel, which I think is their marketing catch-phrase for octane booster. This stuff comes in a 32 oz. can, which treats 10 gallons. Its pricy, but it will take your premium gas (91 octane) up to 102 octane. A person could probably dial down the dosage in half be more than fine. I want to see if this cleans up the sputter around 6K rpm.
For the guys pulling lower rpm's on the top end, I agree that heavy snow, altitude, and new (still breaking in) motors are probable factors. However, I wonder if fuel quality is also an issue here. From what I've been told by dealers, these 2010 motors are very sensitive to fuel quality. The DET sensors will cut the performance of the motor if the octane isn't up to par. If I understand correclty, this reduced performance can happen even if the check-engine light doesn't come on. I believe the check-engine light only comes on is severe cases to reduce engine damage when the fuel quality is really bad. Someone correct me if i'm wrong here! So, perhaps the low rpm's are simply the motor trying to protect itself. Why not try a tank of premium with a good quality octane boost added. That way, you can rule out fuel quality as being an issue and see if your max rpm's improve. Just an idea!
I'm thinking these new Dragons are like high-maintenance women. If you buy them the finest drinks, they'll go all the way! Otherwise, they stop at second or third base and send you home limp
! No offense intended to the ladies...just trying to keep the mood light in a sea of Polaris 800 issues!Sorry for the big ramble. Hopefully some of you find this useful. Keep posting your thoughts and ideas...all good stuff!!
Good call, as long as a person knows they have zero-ethanol gas. If you suspect you have ethanol in the fuel, Polaris recommends that you DO NOT run isopropyl. This information is also in the 2010 manuals, which can be downloaded in pdf format from the Polaris website if you do not own a 2010, but are interested in the info.