Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2008 nytro mtx turbo mcx 270

I have had it since nov 07 turboed since january of 08 pushing 3000 miles with turbo no problems except exhaust, bellows and header had cracked. Also I run a manual boost control. Only thing left on it that is stock is the plastic and handle bars.

so do you have any stock engine or do you guys have low comp pistons?
 
ok so I turned my boost up to 13 14ish and went out and raced the push turbo nytro and he couldn't beat me and then I started to over heat so I put some ice scratchers on and thought that would do it but didn't work so I the sled back up and looked under the right side and the ice sickles hanging there were green so it now it leaks coolant from somewhere so I figured that's why im overheating so what do you guys think happen and is that right about over heating and where would you look first to fix the coolant leak problem?
 
I would start by checking all the hose clamps then the cooler under the tunnel it's on the same side that you say the antifreeze is leaking on..
 
idt its pin size hole from rocks just because we were racing out on a lake with like 2 to 3in of hard snow. so I took the right side panel off and looked around and noticed the anti freeze overflow tube comes right where it looks to be on the inside of the plastic then I checked my radiator and that was kinda low so I filled that back up do you guys think I was overheating because of the snow or do you think there still might be something leaking from somewhere else because I did have the ice scratchers on and the light still came on and my buddy had a push turbo with a 162 and he wasn't over heating..
 
Drain your overflow bottle down to the normal level and make sure you are full of anti freeze in the rad. You might have to lift up the front of the machine to get all the air out. Also open the bleed on the back of the tunnel heat exchanger to let air out. After you are sure all the air is out and you are full go for a ride and see how much you loose and see if it fills up your overflow bottle. If it does it could be the rad cap but I bet it is your head gasket leaking under boost.
 
Drain your overflow bottle down to the normal level and make sure you are full of anti freeze in the rad. You might have to lift up the front of the machine to get all the air out. Also open the bleed on the back of the tunnel heat exchanger to let air out. After you are sure all the air is out and you are full go for a ride and see how much you loose and see if it fills up your overflow bottle. If it does it could be the rad cap but I bet it is your head gasket leaking under boost.

but don't you think if it was the head gasket don't you think it would be blowing antifreeze all over the inside of the sled instead of just on the right side or no??
 
but don't you think if it was the head gasket don't you think it would be blowing antifreeze all over the inside of the sled instead of just on the right side or no??

depends on how big a leak you have, if its small it will just pressurize your cooling system & push coolant out your overflow first.
 
Gaskets are about $30 here in Canada, I would replace the aluminum head shim with a stainless steel shim. Or better yet goto Powderlites o-ringed shim, not sure if this works better but I would like to know. This year I'm going with a 0.060 stainless shim and two gaskets instead of spliting one. As for labour, the engine would have to come out so to do the job someone who has done it before it could be done in a day but it would be tough.
It would be a good idea to goto ARP head studs if it doesn't have them already. Also while you hhave your head off check to see if it is flat, and do valve clearance.

Good Luck
 
Gaskets are about $30 here in Canada, I would replace the aluminum head shim with a stainless steel shim. Or better yet goto Powderlites o-ringed shim, not sure if this works better but I would like to know. This year I'm going with a 0.060 stainless shim and two gaskets instead of spliting one. As for labour, the engine would have to come out so to do the job someone who has done it before it could be done in a day but it would be tough.
It would be a good idea to goto ARP head studs if it doesn't have them already. Also while you hhave your head off check to see if it is flat, and do valve clearance.

Good Luck

so whats the big difference between the o ring one and just a stainless steel one because the price is more then double? also what kind of gaskets are u running is there one better then he other?
 
Premium Features



Back
Top