2008 m1000 bogs/dies after letting off wot

[blurredelevens]

Just bought this sled 2 days ago.
It has been sitting for a year and a half.

Runs really well when it has throttle or isn't warm. When I have it pinned for a while and then let off the throttle it bogs so badly that it won't throttle up again, or it dies. It will start again when it dies, and then will throttle up again as if everything is fine.

I have swapped out the old gas for new, swapped out the plugs, cleaned the spark plug wires and cleaned the power valves.

Still the same issue. Suggestions on what to look at next?
Sled has a y-pipe and can if that helps. Thhanks in advance!

 

[jethrobodean]

I would unplug everything that goes to the handle bars and try it again. I think its the Throttle safety switch thats fuked

 

[diggerdown]

Does it seem to be flooding out or starving for fuel? Oil pump can stick and load them up too. Always somehing that doesn't work right after setting too long. I would run a good injector cleaner through it too. If it is the fuel feed it should clear out by the time you go though a tank of it.

 

[blurredelevens]

I would unplug everything that goes to the handle bars and try it again. I think its the Throttle safety switch thats hecked

I will try that, thank you. What does the throttle safety do?

Does it seem to be flooding out or starving for fuel? Oil pump can stick and load them up too. Always somehing that doesn't work right after setting too long. I would run a good injector cleaner through it too. If it is the fuel feed it should clear out by the time you go though a tank of it.

I will run some injector cleaner through it too! Thanks

 

[jim]

Sounds like too much fuel pressure, too much oil or a bad temp sensor. I'm not sure if the stock regulator can stick or malfunction, but if it runs good cold and when wide open, that sounds rich. Also wouldn't hurt to check oil pump rate...could be flowing too much oil or stuck, as suggested.

 

[blurredelevens]

How would I go about checking oil pressure? Also, is the temp gauge in the pipe? Id also like to add it was backfiring when I would turn it off yesterday... Would this be too much fuel? Also, where is the safety throttle switch?

 

[blurredelevens]

So, I'm pretty sure I've narrowed it down to a sensor.

Throttle or temp sensor? Which one would make more sense?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

What makes you think that, did you unplug everything to the handle bars.

 

[blurredelevens]

What makes you think that, did you unplug everything to the handle bars.

It only happens when it's warm and when I let off WOT. It's pretty regular.

 

[chopperride]

O2 Sensor

If its the exhaust sensor it will code 17. Sometimes other codes come up with the O2 sensor that are bogus but 17 is the O2 sensor.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

So its going lean, do you have any mods

 

[blurredelevens]

So its going lean, do you have any mods

Black Diamond Xtreme air intake kit
Pro-lite series rear bumper kit.
JC's Custom side vents
Aftermarket Y-pipe and can
Clutch modifications

It only seems to bog when warm.
Would this be a egt or temp sensor issue?

 

[jim]

Sled has a y-pipe and can if that helps. Thhanks in advance!

Black Diamond Xtreme air intake kit
Pro-lite series rear bumper kit.
JC's Custom side vents
Aftermarket Y-pipe and can
Clutch modifications

OK...having that intake kit makes a big difference...that will mess things up all day. Y pipe and can, no big deal. Full open mesh black diamond intake kit can create issues with fuel mapping. Can't tell you if it's lean or rich...but sounds rich. No controller?

 

[blurredelevens]

No jim, no aftermarket fuel controller.

It backfired a few times after shutting it off after really getting on it riding pow a few days ago, so i'm guessing rich.

 

[Reaper]

I would guess Lean instead of rich mainly because of the aftermarket intake and it doing it only after it was good and warm and the pipe sensor would be leaning things down a bit, I think I would be doing a WOT pull then yank a plug and see what it looks like.

 

[jim]

It backfired a few times after shutting it off after really getting on it riding pow a few days ago, so i'm guessing rich.

I would be concerned about no fuel control with that set-up. I have heads and y pipe with SLP intake...but that intake doesn't really pull more air. I added a decent amount of fuel to make it happy on top. The backfire is just a really hot pipe and unburnt fuel...makes it light up...been there before. But, I'm running good and clean on the low end. Tough to tell if it's lean or rich unless you have a controller or fuel pressure regulator to play with. I'm definitely guessing it's a fuel issue right now but am not sure which way to go. I don't know if guys with this intake have had to add gas. It might be worth the $$$ to add a controller. I use a Dobeck TFI...works great. It's simple but makes sure I have enough gas everywhere. Very simple but no ability to subtract fuel. For $200 it's decent insurance...but I'd hate to lead you down this road of you are rich...wouldn't help.
http://stores.ebay.com/ATV-Galaxy/Dobeck-EFI-TFI-Controllers-/_i.html?_nkw=arctic+cat&_fsub=7054559


See this thread...polarisfornow had to add fuel with this intake...you might be lean.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296616&highlight=bdx+intake

 

[WyoBoy1000]

The intake isn't the problem,
The y and can combo is. I have tested it all and I could burn down a y-can combo at my elevation in probably 30 seconds or less. I had to raise the fuel pressure from 43psi to 49psi to keep the egts in the safe zone. With that extra fuel I also gained a ton of power. The intake only makes it worse but is not the problem and more likely to cause a low in bog than anything.
Without increasing the fuel pressure and using a bd box I added almost as much fuel as slp recommends to add with there pipe to get the power out of it and egts where I want.

I would be looking at the pistons to see if you ruined them yet.

What is happening is its running so lean and getting so hot when you let of and the ecu runs the low throttle part of the mapping theres not enough fuel and the heat vaporizes the fuel. If you havent f cked it up yet your lucky and better get some fuel to that thing.

 

[Shearsy]

bewildered

So what you are saying is the mods are creating this mess. I have a 07 m1000 stocker that's doing the same thing. She will idle fine or run WFO then dies and will intermittently start. It seems thermo dynamicaly related. Plugs are chocolate after a wot pull. I am going to start trouble shooting it when I find time. Anyone out there has seen this? I would appreciate a time saver.

 

[killerrf]

mine did this for the first time also... after a longer wide open pull like 45 seconds to 1 minute but it would also do this after sitting a while and then start and idle fine as soon as i would go to hit the throttle it would sometimes die or hestitate but then would go fine at any throttle position. my guess is the throttle safety switch. after we put a heater in the trailer and warmed things up and melted some ice next day it didnt do it at all. moisture getting into things sure could cause an issue like your describing.

 

[Shearsy]

On track now

I appreciate the reply. I found time to trouble shoot it the other night after work. I did end up at the throttle safety switch. I unplugged the switch and the B**&% started after the first pull. The throttle was responsive. Plugged the switch back in and she wouldn't rev up. I haven't taken the time to test the switch with my meter. But, the writing is on the wall as far as I'm concerned. A fuller understanding of the ecu logic going into this would have speeded things up no doubt. I am leaning on installing a tether switch as an alternative to prevent a run away. I am not to worried about the logic while shifting into reverse. Common sense should alleviate that. Searching multiple posts has led me to believe this is a common issue. I don't see any reason to go back to oem if it is a repeating issue. The switch itself is not serviceable according to online parts schematics. I plan on contacting a dealer in the area and see if the switch is serviceable. I am exploring options at this point.