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2006 RMK 600 HO - Recommendations

I have a 2006 RMK 600 HO, I have removed the radiator, cut the track down to 1.25, installed 65 gram MTX weights & SLP Black/Pink Spring, Running a Team 719 Helix on the 66-44-42 angle, SLP AirHorn with 2 flow rites, and an after market can.

Jetting is at 440 Mains with clip in #3 posistion. Basically trying to convert my RMK into a trail, flat land rider. We ride under 2000 ft at about -15 C.

Should I look at gearing to the stock Switch Back 22:39? Or what gearing would be recommended. Would like it to pull hard and see close to 100 MPH across a field or lake. Have to ask as we do not enough snow to try it out yet.
 
My stock 06 600 switchback with the stock gearing would top out at 98 with a 144x1.25 track. I am trying to make my switchback into a RMK. I put on a 151 2 inch track and I have thinking of going to 06 RMK gearing. 06 was geared a little higher then 07+. How fast is your sled now? Mid 80's? 440 mains seem alittle rich to me but if it's that cold up there maybe thats fine. I have a SLP air horn and 4 flowrights and by looking at the stock jetting chart I was over jeted stock. Plus it still looks like a could still get away with an SLP pipe and can with 420 mains as long as it doesn't get really cold like below 15 deg. I have only taken it around the yard but it seems much more crisp then before. look at the jetting chart that slp has for there pipe on a 06 600. I ride mostly between 500-2500 feet. Have you been out on the trail with the radiator removed any over heating proplems? I just took mine out but haven't tested it yet.
 
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I have yet to try the sled with the new mods and radiator removed. It ran low to mid 80's with the stock RMK set up. I am just trying to decide between 22:39 or 23:39 gearing.....playing around the yard it seems nice and crisp but I have yet to take it on a longer run to see what RPM's I can run at full shift out with the 66-44-42 Helix.

It was the Polaris shop that recommended taking the front rad out to lose some weight and they state it iced up all the time and did nothing for cooling anyways?
 
The radiator worked on mine as long as I didn't drop off the trail. As soon as the nose hit some snow it filled with snow and turned to ice. If I was moving it wouldn't melt and would make it run hoter. Last year a ran on solid lake ice with the scrachers down with the radiator working and as long as I wasn't going to fast i was fine. The switchback a digital temp gauge so I can watch it. If you move the frount wheels a few inches forward you can run the scrachers in the stock wheel spot and the wheels still have room. I did it on my 144 and 151 no problems at all.
 
Thanks for the info. I am going to try it without scratchers and will install if heating is an issue. I always try to get off trail whenever possible to give her a nice cool down in some fluff.

Do you have any recommendations on gearing, with the weights and Helix I am running? Not concerned with seeing anything over 100 MPH but would like it to pull hard from corner to corner.
 
I am running a 22t 39t right now which was a good all around gear for a 144 track for on and off trail. Had a power right from stand still and toped out at 98. rode with a frind that had a 03 600 XC it was geared way to high for my likeing. He smoke a belt off trail really bad and had to get a new one. I think I am going with a 20t 41t (stock 06 RMK) or a 21t 40t for this year because a don't want to start loosing lugs off my new track at high speed. I really don't go much faster then 80 anyway. 07 and new RAW IQ's I think have a 19t 41t. I rode one last year a thought it was way to low for the trail wouldn't go much faster then 70 or so(great off trail and climing hills). My clutching is stock right now. I think if I mess with it I will order a whole kit from some one that knows waht there doing like Carl's. I heard they are really good with clutching. I would put some scrachers on your sled, there were plenty of times last year when the snow was really hard a cold and I had to run them or a would get to hot. Its better then sitting around waiting to cool off.
 
Thanks a bunch....i installed the 22:39 gearing and went for a rip across the field last night in very marginal snow conditions. Pulled 8200 RPM and Speedo max was 89 MPH, so I ma guessing with more snow and some slippage as opposed to full traction rev's may come up a bit as well as MPH. Plugs were a nice tan color. The sled pulls real good and should be good to go for a while and we shall see from there.

Thanks again for your input.
 
Should have geared it 22/40 for the cut down track. 19/41 for the 151" track, others will tell you lower yet.
 
Finally got it where I want it. Dropped to 60 gram weights and might go to 58's yet.

Raced my buddies 02 RMK 700 with 136" track and he beats me out of the hole then stays one sled length ahead to 85 MPH. His sled is clutched/geared/helix etc...

So I would say my sled is real close to great and pulls very hard with the present set up.

Track cut down from 2" to 1.25", SLP High Airflow kit, Boulder Mountain "the Thing" can, 23/39 Gearing, 440 Mains, and the team 719 Helix on the 66 degree angle, and 60 gram clutch weights.

I am going to try dropping to 58 gram weights and switch the helix to the 70 degree angle.

Fastest 600 I've ridden.
 
Helix

I would go to a shallower finish angle on the helix my 685 pulls a 44 finish angle at sea level, it pulls a 40* finish at higher elevation. The fastest 600 I have ridden runs a 64/40 .46 helix (it destroys a 700 VES). Pulls it much quicker to full shift than the stock 56/42. The 719 Helix is a favorite for the 900 which has a ton more torque than the 600.
 
It is still like I am hitting a wall at 85MPH, marked my primary and tried it and there is a good 1" of marker left on it after 1/2 mile run?????

Any ideas? Running the Team 719 Helix on the 66-44-42.
 
It is still like I am hitting a wall at 85MPH, marked my primary and tried it and there is a good 1" of marker left on it after 1/2 mile run?????

Any ideas? Running the Team 719 Helix on the 66-44-42.

Too much finsh angle on the helix, the 600 will have a TOUGH time pulling down a 44 finish. My 685 pulls a 66/44 .46 at sea level. Drop it back to a 66/40 .46 or a 64/40 .46 finish and add more primary weight. It works.
 
Too much finsh angle on the helix, the 600 will have a TOUGH time pulling down a 44 finish. My 685 pulls a 66/44 .46 at sea level. Drop it back to a 66/40 .46 or a 64/40 .46 finish and add more primary weight. It works.

take heed what this guy says. ain't no stockish 600 gonna pull a 44 finish on a team at your elevation. add 2 degrees timing and SLP pipe/can and it is really sweet at 8300rpm.
 
And gear down like I keep telling you, running tall gearing on a 144"er isn't gonna get you more speed unless you have alot more power than 120! I run what I've been recommending on my '08, easily hit 100 on the speedo.
 
take heed what this guy says. ain't no stockish 600 gonna pull a 44 finish on a team at your elevation. add 2 degrees timing and SLP pipe/can and it is really sweet at 8300rpm.

Yep, thats a good running setup. Timing bump is very helpful. As is the SLP pipe/can.

I also think that the jetting may be a touch rich. After review of past tunning notes, I ran 390's at sea level pulling almond primary with 10-62 weights and the 64/40 .46 with a Black/purple Sec spring, 3 delrin Washers on a TSS04.
 
Ok, I have the 64/40 Helix on order. What weights would you guys recommend I rumn in the primary? 62's?

Also presently I have 23/39 gearing in this sled....I do have a 22T and a 20T top gear as well as a 41T bottom gear.
I was thinking of going back to the 22/39 combo dropping it from 1.70 to 1.78 ratio.
 
one more thing if the stock helix for an 06 Switchback 600 essentially what I now have is 64/42 .36 could I not run a 66/42 .46 or is the 64/40 .46 better?
 
one more thing if the stock helix for an 06 Switchback 600 essentially what I now have is 64/42 .36 could I not run a 66/42 .46 or is the 64/40 .46 better?

The 64-40 .46 has a .1" longer intial ramp, this will help get the sled moving quicker and then transition to a shallower helix which it can pull easier. I would simply add more rivets to your current MTX weights to take care of any over rev.

In your gearing, I would shoot for something in the 1.8-1.9 range. Don't forget to take into account the 10% overdrive present in the clutch. If geared 20/41 your gearing is good for 86mph, take into account the 10% and you are at around 94 mph.
 
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