2006 600 HO Switch Throttle Dead Spot.

[farmerja1]

The sled runs fine at higher rpm's and starts like a dream. But after running for a little but there seems to be a dead spot in the throttle after I let off and get back on it. i have went completely thru the clutches. I was thinking the reeds possibly but u mentioned a carburetor problem.

The dead spot gets me in trouble when boondocking in the Rockies.

When Burping the throttle it does not happen, and it does it at all elevations just seems more defined in the Rockies.

 

[SD Coyote]

The 06 worked well at most elevations, using the factory settings for clutching. The main jets were a little rich. I run 400s down low and 280s 6-8 thou. These sleds were a little rich on the bottom. Some tuners changed the pilot jets, air jets, and changed the fuel screw settings. I think these changes helped the 07s and up, but IMO the 06s ran best with the factory low end, and needle settings. Have you verified your low end settings?

 

[farmerja1]

I have not looked at the low end settings. How would one go about checking them? I heard from a friend that it sounds like its running a little rich also, Do you think maybe dropping 1 jet size will help the problem?

 

[diamonddave]

DiamondDave:

I saw your post and wanted to get some help on my sled. The sled runs fine at higher rpm's and starts liked a dream. But after running for a little but there seems to be a dead spot in the throttle after I let off and get back on it. i have went completely thru the clutches. I was thinking the reeds possibly but u mentioned a carburetor problem.

The dead spot gets me in trouble when boondocking in the Rockies.

Thanks for your help.

Maybe if you post a link to my post, I could help you a little more.

Runnability problems are often difficult to diagnose over the net however, I would be willing to help you if I could get a little more information.

Does the "dead spot" happen only when riding at elevation in the Rockies and not back at home at lower altitudes?

What jets are you running, main, pilot, clip postion? Fuel screw adjustments?

Will the dead spot happen if you continually burp the throttle?

What helix are you running in the secondary?

Have you inspected the bushing in the sliding sheeve of the secondary? This requires removing the spring and completely disassembling the rear secondary. Most people don't go this far.

How many miles on the sled?

How many miles on the carb boots?

Are you running stock reeds or V-force?

What brand pipe and or silencer are you running?

I have quite a bit of experience with 06 and 07 Carb'd 600's and 685's. Polaris changed the carburetors in 07 due to funky runnability problems, kind of like what you are describing.


I have had to make some radical adjustments on some 06 carb's to get rid of "Transisitional throttle inconsistencies" like what you describe with clip changes in the needle, and pilot changes.



What could you do first?

I would definately recommend replacing the carb boots first and foremost. They have been very problematic and have been upgraded 3 times with thicker boots. Many people don't know this, I do.


2nd...I would remove the carb's, bring them in to your kitchen table, lay a towel down and take them apart. They are easy to work on. Then write down all of the info from your jets. Main jet, Pilot, clip in the needle. Count how many turns out the fuel screws are set at.


That way you have a starting point and can adjust from there. I have found raising the clip is sometimes a very good thing but I hate to recommend something to you without seeing exactly what is going on.


Let me know,

Dave

Thanks for your help Dave. Here is the link to the thread http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280091 its new, I just started it. The Sled is stock as far as the engine, and the jets are set for 1300ft for flat land. I added a SLP silencer and there are 1800 miles on the sled and carb's and I am running stock reeds. My brother went through the clutches last year so I don't know how far he tore into them. I am not currently with my sled its in MN at my parents place so I cant get the numbers for you right now. I will see if I cant get the numbers from my brother.

What we need is some kind of baseline as to what jets are already in the carbs. the next thing is to make sure the carb boots are in excellent condition or just go ahead and replace them as they are on their 3rd design.

 

[volcano buster]

Maybe I am way off base, but is there a chance the kill switches in the throttle block are hanging up and killing the power briefly? I ask because on my old XLT the little contacts had worn out and it would kill the electrical power when you would let off going into a corner or slow down for a tree. If you weren't quick to get back on it the motor would idle down below its natural pick up point and die. I think this can also act similar if the throttle cable is not adjusted correctly to give the required air gap in the throttle itself. I wonder if the sled has had bar risers put on, or some other modification to the throttle cable that might be putting a bind in it to cause the switch to over-ride the ignition.

Not ruling out any other ideas, just thinking again.