Welcome to the fourms..
This is my OPINION... take it for just that.
Spend your money first on reliability items first.. all the performance goodies in the world won't do you any good if your sled is broken.
Work your way down from the top of my list in order of importance to spend money on your sled.
IMO, the first order of business is to check your crankshaft for run-out... There are some good posts on here that will point this out for you... others can steer you in the right direction... If it is out of spec... take care of that before proceeding.
IMO, and not trying to be a salesman here... but spending the $10 on a premium membership will allow you to see more helpfull info on this site.
Next order of business is to replace the 2005 pistons if not done already already... Use only OEM piston kits... not aftermarket. The 2005's were prone to failure....Polaris no longer makes them, superceded to 2006 style.
Next after that is to get the clutch "blueprinted" and balanced.. The primary clutch is the key ingredient to longer engine life. I recommend Indy Specialties... They do the most thorough work and the clutch comes back perfect... not just balanced but re-machined and made better than new... this is the engine's link to the rest of the sled. There is a good post outlining the differences in clutch services on here.
Check CAREFULLY the clutch bolt... look at the smallest part just above the threads... you are looking for stretching or "hour-glassing" of this section... replace if necessary.
Do the Motor mounts...
www.hiperf.com has them .. the same as the 2006's... same OEM... much less costly. They also have a great price on the fuel filters... Listed as 2006, but they fit the 2005 as well. Compfusions mounts are the top of the heap.. but they might not be in your budget.
Replace the throttle body boots to the reeds... Kimpex makes them for like $15 each. I think GuidoExpress knows where to get them.
The FBF cable is also a must IMO.
Next in priority is the clutching... On the primary go with the almond 140/330 spring and weights for your riding altitude and performance... I really recommend the standard Polaris 10 series weights ... none of the fancy "hot rod" ones... 3 sets should cover you for a broad range of altitudes....10-68, 10-70 & 10-72gram. Bushings on weights wear out...Check and replace these as needed (I do it every 1500 miles).
Indy will shim the clutch for the weights and specify that you want it set to .010" with a new 3211115 belt.
The same springs and helix can be used if you upgrade to the SLP pipe... you simply change the weights.
IMO, ONLY RUN THE 3211115 belt, It is expensive, but worth it... none of the aftermarket belts so far have been worth it IMO... it is the toughest belt out there. If you "blow" a belt while riding you could ruin or weaken your crankshaft. Wash the new belt well before use...lots on the forums about that
Secondary, Red-Pink spring with 2 delrin washers UNDER the spring cup (between the spring cup and the clutch itself)
Get a 66-44 / 66-42 secondary helix.
Run 19 x 42 gearing and make sure that you check the tension often during the season... I'm not a fan of the 18 tooth top gear.
With good gearing and good motor mounts you should not need to get the torque stop/torque arm, IMO. (make sure that the stock torque is in good shape and adjusted to .030")
Much of this stuff you can find used in good shape... I would not recommend getting a used 19 tooth gear though.. go with new.
ESSENTIAL in good performance of this sled is that your clutches stay maintained and clean them every few rides.. Also Make sure that the belt deflection is set to the 1.25" specified in your owners manual... If you dont have one... download it for free from Polaris.
If your sled has more than 1500 miles on it... replace the jackshaft bearings... If they fail, they will take a lot of other parts with it.
Next, order Polaris part number 2203165, TPS harness repair kit... Made for an ATV, but as long as you pay attention to the position of the wires, you will be just fine... leave them full length and tie into the main harness as far back as possible.
Replace ALL 4 of the main motor mount bolts with 3/8-16 x 2.5" L9 bolts from fastenall... Replace all 4 of the bolts that hold the motor mount plate to the bulkhead with grade 8 bolts.
Check VERY carefully that the wiring harness is not rubbing on any thing... add chaffe protection on the harness and do NOT over thighten the Zip ties... Treat the wire harness as fragile.
Before you pull your motor, have a look at the recoil housing and the bolts that secure it.. You will notice one or two that are not accessible... (I think only one on the 2005's) ... Mark it and leave it out after you pull the motor...
Now is a good time to replace the pull start rope with a really strong one.
Have your dealer pull a "unit inquiry" on your sled and find out what updates were done... make sure that the fuel tank recall was done and that the fuel float was replaced.
Run BPR9ES NGK plugs, IMO... and make sure that the contacts in the boots are in good shape.
Next, IMO, in importance BEFORE improving the power output is to make sure that it handles well so you can stay in control... the 900's make really good power stock when tuned well... Put the pipe on the end of the list.
The 2005 spindles are crap.. replacing them with later models...especially the 2008 or newer or Holz will give you less steering effort.
Make sure the ball-joints/tie-rod ends don't have slop in them, replace if necessary.
Make sure that the hadlebars fit you, are the proper height and are not tweaked at all. I recommend the Polzinhunter steering kit... It ties in all the steering post, and has a heavy duty greaseable bearing that will not snap at the wrong time like the stock rider select unit.
Skis... I really like the Gripper skis from polaris with the 6" carbides... Also, the new Simmons Gen III skis are phenomenal (but more money).
Make sure that your shocks are serviced if they are the snowcheck rebuild-able aluminum type... If you have aftermarket shocks on there... confirm that they were made for your sled... often people buy used shocks that are "pretty close" but off another model or brand of sled... This, IMO, is a big mistake... you are much better served getting the correct shocks...good suppliers will even give you custom valving on new shocks...If they are the stock type (black color body steel, Ryde-FX) they are good for about 1500 - 2000 miles before they are "sacked out" and need replacing... Choose wisely grasshopper!
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To protect your investment... get a front bumper... I really like the SPG and Treedog bumpers for the cash outlay.
Make sure that throughout the year, you check and maintain the track tension to FACTORY specs in your owners manual.
Set the oil pump adjustment spot-on...
Set the TPS sensor to spec...
Make sure that all the chassis bolts are tight... If you move them when checking, you have destroyed the locktite bond ... remove them and re-install new locktite... have blue and red on hand.
Of the remainder of you list...in order of importance IMO...
Skinz Protective gear Ultra Q or Super Q can... super high quality, compact and not too loud (the ultra is the least noisy)
SLP pipe
2 wheel kit
BD programmer
V Force reeds.
The SLP "flash" for the pipe also custom tailors the ignition curve as well... IMO, unless you are running NOS or other mix/match parts..you will not need a control box.
I'm sure I'm leaving some things out... you will find a lot of help on here from the rest of the 900 gang.
Good luck with your project.
Ok I am getting ready to put about $1500 on my 2005 900 159
vent
Slp pipe and can
Boondocker programer
V force reeds
Push and torqu arm
Motor mounts
Clutch balanced
Clutch kit
Gearing
2 wheel kit
Ski
Ok here is my questions. What should I change my gearing to.what is a good starting point on clutching. What is the best throtle cable. Is the boondocker programer good and do I still have to flash the pcm for the pipe or will the boondocker do the job. Also if you have aney for these parts for sale let me know. I have cash thanks allot.
